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JohnC

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Posts posted by JohnC

  1. 6 hours ago, PodOne said:

    Just for some debate and evidence has anyone compared the bhp results of Std cast manifold, 6-3-1 and 6-2-1 on a dyno with no other changes?

    I have compared a TT1200 6-2 (not 6-2-1; it went into a twin pipe system with a balance pipe further back) with a standard cast iron manifold. Same dyno, no other changes, and the engine was bog standard CP. The cast iron manifold generated ~10-15 lb.ft more torque until 4000RPM, and at 4500RPM both were about equal. The 6-2 then generated about 5 lb.ft more until 5500RPM, where I stopped. The 6-2 manifold max power was ~5bhp more than the OE cast iron, but not until over 5000RPM.

    My conclusion (borne out by the opinion of others better qualified) is that the TT1200 is much better suited to a race car being driven high in the rev range, than to a daily driver. As Neil says, the Triumph engineers did get it right. The OE cast iron manifold does the job well.

    I daresay that if the engine had been improved (balancing in particular, but head work as well) the TT1200 may have given better results. FWIW since then (2007) I have had the engine balanced, the head worked on and the CR raised a bit. But I have thrown out the TT1200 so we'll never know!

    Cheers,
    John

  2. 2 hours ago, Dave Squance said:

    today  my power assisted steering will arrive.from CCD. I will write a report on this forum about fitting and how good it is with my 205 tyres. 
    if I need advice, I’m sure Alistair will be able to help  

    I'm sure you'll find it a delight to fit and use. I just hope that Alasdair doesn't mind you mis-spelling his name :P

  3. 2 hours ago, Waldi said:

    It’s the other way Trevor,
    pushing the button “shorts” the horn circuit to mass.

    But, either way, it sounds like you're right. There should be a metal contact extending from the small nut in the centre of the horn push to make contact with the end of the pencil. The problem is always related in some way to the nut at the wheel...

    John

  4. There should be a hole in the boss with a spring-loaded horn pencil in it (plastic tube with metal contacts either end). That connects the ring to a contact on the horn push, which in turn is grounded via the boss.

  5. Hi fellow members,

    Is anyone else having difficulty viewing any of the technical seminar videos? When I try, I get the message "Playback temporarily disabled. Please contact support for more information." Just wondering if it's just me or more widespread. There's no link to "support" so I've emailed the technical@ account.

    Cheers,
    John

  6. 2 hours ago, Dave Squance said:

    Do we know of anybody in the TR register that I’ve used them and confirm their system is good for the TR6

    I have it and it's fantastic. Straightforward to fit but only with an electric fan mounted in front of the rad. Yes, Alasdair can be a little slow to respond to emails. I seem to recall he has somebody who helps him manage the Facebook Messenger channel so try that as well.
    JC

  7. On 2/5/2024 at 1:43 AM, Steve-B said:

    I know purists may prefer green as originally that's what was supplied however I'm considering red for 2 reasons. First my car is red, and second, red is proven easier on the eyes in the dark than other colours.

    Anyone installed red dashboard lights from ClassicLEDs?

    Yes. They work fine but you'll need a dimmer as they are very bright. I made one per Bob's design above and it works a treat. BTW I don't know what market had green dash lights. Both my large dials have blue diffusers. Not that they did much; the original lights were always a dim yellowish glow!

    Cheers,
    John

  8. I'm toying with the idea of fitting a home-made logic unit. What has help me up so far (apart from an unsuccessful attempt at using ICs) is what momentary switch to use. I've seen the various alternatives others here have used. What I'm wondering is whether the original stalk switch can be modified to momentary operation. Has anyone looked into this?

    Cheers,
    JC

  9. 5 minutes ago, RogerH said:

    Fitting as per the ROM makes sense as the bolts are simply locating and not taking all the pressure

    I hate it when somebody brings logic to an opinion party! That was a joke BTW. Good point. And same to Rob. If it works, chill...
    JC

  10. 9 minutes ago, RogerH said:

    I'm sure I read somewhere that there was a conflict in the pictures but not sure which was correct.

    Fair enough. I can't claim the ROM is correct. As you say, it conflicts with the parts catalogue. And my slave came with a machined face on the back (i.e. "insert from the front") but that didn't work for me. But knowing that one has a choice may help somebody.

    FWIW my Haynes manual also has a sketch showing the slave inserted from the back. I'm not sure if that's good or bad! [edit} and it shows the bracket in front of the engine back plate!
    Cheers,
    JC

  11. 6 minutes ago, RogerH said:

    the MOss WebCat suggests that the SC goes in from thew front but the bracket is fitted to the rear of the GB flange

    I'm not disputing that. But the ROM shows the opposite. Really, it does. But my original Leyland Triumph TR6 Sports Car Parts Catalogue exploded diagram *implies* that the slave is inserted from the front (and its internals are inserted from the rear - go figure). My point is that the ROM has a sketch showing the slave in its installed position.
    JC

  12. 22 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:

    The trick is finding folk who know how to do this and an almost indeterminate amount of rolling road time. That’s an ever diminishing number.

    Or buy a wideband AFR sensor with associated gauge & logging kit, and make a vacuum calibration setup. It may cost less than a single rolling road session and will give you endless hours of fun! I have learnt so much about the PI system by going down that road (was that a pun?). 
    Cheers,
    JC

  13. 16 hours ago, RogerH said:

    looking at the Moss WebCat the SC goes in from the front of the bracket.

    My original Repair Operations Manual shows the opposite - the slave cylinder is inserted into the bracket from the back of the car. When mine was the other way round it was marginal - at full travel the slave piston was close to falling out of the bore. Now it's fine. But slave pushrod length has nothing to do with travel unless it results in the piston popping out.
    Cheers,
    JC

  14. FIrst, don't assume the worst (whatever that is). In your place I would remove all the spark plugs, put the engine in gear, and see if a bit of rocking by rolling the wheels back & forth shifts things. BTW removing the rocker shaft may have made things more difficult. All your valves are held shut by their springs, so harder to turn the engine.
    hope this helps,
    JC

  15. On 2/9/2024 at 2:02 AM, JohnTee said:

    Success! Just had the garage on the phone. When the chap I bought it off re-built it, putting the re-conned metering unit on he seemingly used silicon sealant when fitting it, rather than the correct O-Ring. Over the course of a few years, it has obviously deteriorated. Fitting the correct seal has returned it to its former running glory. Colour me happy and content.

    Thanks to all for your time, advice and opinions. Much appreciated.

    John T

     

    That’s one for the “never would have thought of that” book. Great job by the garage. Me, I’d drop by a slab of beer. But this is Australia :D

    Which O ring BTW?

    JC

  16. 14 hours ago, Macleesh said:

    It can be done without an extra switch by using a latching relay which utilises the existing flash position on the light switch to toggle the relay state when headlights are on.

    It's on my list of things to do but not a priority as I don't think I've ever had the car out in the dark.

    If you’re looking for one then I’m pretty sure many VWs used a latching relay which the flash function toggles.
    JC

  17. On 2/9/2024 at 6:24 AM, mleadbeater said:

    Both bearings are marked as standard, which, according to sources are .920” thick.

    Mine measure .9325”thick, ie. theoretically +12.5

    You could always assume the sources are wrong but the stamp is correct. If they’re virtually unworn then do as Harry says. Or order a couple of spares in different sizes and mix & match until you’re happy. The postage will likely be more than the TWs themselves!

    Cheers,
    JC

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