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bob buzzard

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About bob buzzard

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  • Location
    M50 corridor
  • Cars Owned:
    1970 TR6 PI since 1982

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  1. Gentlemen, thanks again for the replies. Bruce - Good advice. I have a new MOSS lay shaft in stock and will certainly now be testing it. I expect to go to ORS for a replacement O/D for my project and I believe they have their own supplier of layshafts (?) so will think on that one. Derek - many thanks for the offer of reprints - I have some of them from a US web-source but would be interested in those six mentioned from sheet1 - D-10 onwards. I'll send my e-mail shortly. Rob
  2. Bruce - thanks very much for the helpful reply and the contact number. I'll probably have to get a professional involved at some point and the recommendation is welcome. Derek - thanks for the tech bulletin - I am aware of this change to first gear but was wondering if the change in 1st motion shaft and constant pinion helix angle at gearbox numbers CD51162 also involved a change in tooth numbers as there seems no other explanation for the fact that the ratios changed for 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears at this time Do you have access to a full set of the gear-box sheets as I'd love to read m
  3. I'm hoping someone will have a late-spec gearbox (J-type) in pieces somewhere? I'd like to know the number of teeth on both the 1st motion shaft (219126) and the constant pinion gear (159621). Reason: Trying to assemble a late-spec gearbox from the remains of a supposed (and incomplete) Dolomite Sprint box and other accumulated parts (including an unidentified TR6 1st motion shaft). The supposed Sprint box has no I/D stamped on the casing so may well be Mk2 T2000. Thought I had the correct late type 1st motion and constant pinion but now, having counted the teeth (23 and 35 res
  4. Thanks very much for your responses, guys, that's exactly what I needed. Cheers Rob
  5. I'm attempting to convert a top-cover from the push-fit plugs holding the detent springs in place(156665), to the screwed type (108166). I have tapped the holes out to 7/16" UNF and have some brass threaded rod to match but I don't have a pattern to hand. Could someone with a collection of gearbox bits let me know how thick/deep the screwed plugs should be? Any advice welcome
  6. Tim I'm no expert, but I believe this is a common problem with the bronze "top-hat" bush. The upgrade to a steel part (129939X) is fully outlined in the Moss catalogue (p51). Something I am keen to do just as soon as I can muster the considerable energy required to remove the box!
  7. Dave I haven't done much on the forum but am beginning to realise that after 36 yrs of struggle, I might be able to offer just a little advice. Far be it from me to influence your decision.... but, rebuilding diffs is a bit of a black art. I had a whiner once that even baffled the very experienced Pete Cox. I have done one or two using improvised tooling to spread the casing but it was more by luck that it worked out OK. If you can establish what bearings Rimmer Bros are using, I would probably go for the exchange. Best of luck.
  8. If its a solid spacer, make sure the condition of any shim you re-use is spot-on. I once had a shim break out from the pack, lodge in the front roller bearing, and at 50 mph it was like being grabbed by a big hand from behind. Result, pinion welded to inner race - new CW & P required.
  9. My apologies to Ragtag - I'm new to the forum and a bit nervous of making a post. I ought to have written that it's very interesting to read about the various EFi conversions and I really admire the results some members have achieved. I have seriously considered this mod over the last few years but have decided to stick with PI for the time being.
  10. I'm glad to read there is some support out there for Lucas PI, after all it was good enough for Maserati and early Cosworth DFV engines!! To my mind, its part of the essential TR6 core character and I'm committed to live with it a while longer yet.
  11. After a major search for these items, I e-mailed Moss Europe and a very co-operative chap named Adam Chignell replied that they (Moss) were going to obtain some of these from their cable supplier to supply poor owners like us with perfectly serviceable cables and perished gaiters. The part number is 140373G (£3.50 a shot). I have fitted a pair to my otherwise perfect cables and although this is a little tricky in situ, I can report they are a quality item and worth the effort. Should keep the MOT man happy for a while.
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