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About bullstreetboy

  • Birthday 02/12/1947

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  • Location
    Ideford, Devon
  • Cars Owned:
    1961 TR3a, 2002 Jeep Cherokee, 1970 Triumph Bonneville T120, 1961 Triumph SL Cub T20
  1. As I recall, the Overdrive solenoid is 2 stage - first stage requires a larger current to pull the actuator valve and therefore engage overdrive - and the second is just to hold the solenoid in place. May be worth checking the adjustment of the solenoid if the fuse keeps blowing.
  2. Guys Forgive the delay on the update - work in Japan got in the way The car is back on the road with a new head - it still smokes a little but not too bad.The webers will need a tweek I think Old modified head!!!
  3. Guys Sorry for the dealy - work in Japan got in the way. TR back on the road with a new head - still smokes a little but not too bad. See modified old head
  4. Guys The head is off without too much of a struggle! A little surprise awaited me though. The engine was fitted with TWO head gaskets and a shim gasket. Measurements show the head had been skimmed by a huge 2.5mm. A scrapper for me I think.Can anyone make use of it? The good news is that there is no detectable lip on the liners. Judging by the top of the pistons it looks like my assumption of oil seeping down the guides may be right - 2 & 3 were really oily. The final engine start before the head removal had the "hydraulicing" symptom again. The engine smoked immediately on starting. . So for now I'm just going with a head change. Unfortunately, a risk I have to take due to lack of space, fitness etc. Once again thanks for all the valuable advice.
  5. Roger "when you take the head off DO NOT rotate the crank." Thanks for that vital piece of info. It seems to me:- That any inspection of the piston/rings will therefore disturb the liner seals. I can't even get each piston to TDC and scape the carbon off without disturbing the liner seals. I can just replace the head IF I can get it off. Local garage man says he had a Jaguar hanging on the head before it finally let go. I don't have the room/gear to pull the engine. Looks like I'm up the proverbial creek without a paddle.
  6. Roger As always - thanks for advice and support I'll go with the head change first. Have a look at the liners, maybe just change the rings.
  7. Thanks Guys for all the advice. My main problem is lack of space to do any sort of engine rebuild. At over 70 now, I know I would struggle to do it myself, and don't know of any local assistance who has worked on this type of engine before. It's looking like I'll just have to go with the head change and hope it cures the oil burning. Barry
  8. Uncomfortable? - not for me! . I don't have the space /lifts/fitness to do it. I'm(or someone else - professional ) is replacing the head. It seems sensible to replace the liners/pistons at the same time, - the engine is burning a lot of oil. I think this replacement engine (TR4 era) has done about 56K miles. I'm not able to confirm this but remember being told this when I bought the car. It seems that Moss do not supply just piston rings only any more. They do sell replacement piston but for a few more beer tokens .....
  9. Guys Forgive my naivety please:- Is it possible to replace liner/piston with the engine block in situ? Head off of course! Best regards Barry
  10. Guys Please forgive my ignorance. Is the problem that the sheet steel is "thin" or just sub standard? Glass blasting has been mentioned. I recon Iain is right, a cupbrush and some time , which I have, would maybe do it, BUT I don't have the space. The original one has been waiting for over 6 years now, the Bodmin moor reclaim only 3 years, so what is the rush? Except I am running out of time!
  11. Guys I rescued a factory hardtop from a barn on Bodmin moor some time ago. I'm having problems getting it cleared off. All the blaster I have contacted so far don't want anything to do with the job because "we have had problems with those in the past". From what they are claiming bead/sand blasting is too harsh and leads to an orange peel effect when painted. I did get another one vapour blasted by a company on Dartmooor but the results where not good - that hard top was in a very poor state. So I now have 2 that are in dire need of attention. I have all new fittings including rear screens, cant rails, rubbers, etc in the attic just waiting to be fitted. Anyone got experience of this process? I'm close to Teignmouth in South Devon. Best regards Barry .
  12. Thanks Guys Now it's getting warmer it has to be done. I haven't removed a head for decades, but after all it's only a few bolts! Regards Barry
  13. Guys Still looking at options but:- TRSHOP.CO.UK This is their reply to an enquiry as per their advert in the pamphlet issues with the last TR Action:- "If you would like us to have your cylinder head reconditioned it will be £650.00 +VAT (based on standard unleaded specification) Please note, when we send the cylinder head away to be reconditioned they are crack tested; If there is a crack on the cylinder head then it is scrap and cannot be reconditioned. Please note, if this happens there is still an inspection charge of £50.00 +VAT Our reconditioned cylinder heads are £1100.00 +VAT as an outright purchase. There is no exchange required. Unfortunately we currently are out of stock of reconditioned cylinder heads. Are these Guys serious?
  14. Is that like Twatting? (or should that be tweeting?) Not into so called social media as you can probably tell. Us old f**ts tend to stay clear of such things! Thanks Guys for all your advice I'll most probably go the refurb route - now the weather is predicted to get better in South Devon (sometime), I can face a cold garage and remove the head - not done that in probably 40 . years. 1 to 3-4 cost does it for me.
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