[Who sells uprated thrust washers?]

Thanks for all your replies. I spoke to Scott at custom thrust washers, very impressed and easy transaction. Expecting delivery soon.

[Who sells uprated thrust washers?]

Hi all

Measured my end float this evening on the 6, its a 73 CR model. Checked a few times and confirmed its 0.012 inch. Book recommends 0.006 - 0.008 so I need to do some work. Is it worth going for an uprated thrust washer set and if so who should I turn to?

Thanks as always.

 

Regards

Richard

['rare' cylinder head]

Well I've checked the thickness of the head and you're right Tony it measures 3.535", but how did my car end up with an African intended head?

Is the UK spec CR head different and what would you suggest about my current pushrods at 8.30" which appear correct for a CR car. Incidentally my engine has a CR stamp on it so I'm assuming once (if possible) I have the head skimmed, performance will be transformed?

Come to think of it the car has never performed as I would have expected but then I've not had anything to compare it with, that may also account for the very poor running?

 

Thoughts!

 

 

['rare' cylinder head]

I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild on my 73 TR6 UK fuel injected CR car and have come across a problem. The cylinder head fitted to the car is stamped as 218227 which appears to be a low compression unit intended for Africa?

 

I need to rebuild the head because of leaky valves and was wondering if skimming 3mm off the head would bring it back to a high compression CR head. Also would I need to replace my current 8.3 inch push rods (210mm) with shorter ones?.

 

Thanks

[Overhead throttle linkage]

I'm interested in purchasing one of these throttle linkages. Does anyone have Reg Bowlers contact details, happarentlh he's manufactured a number and are well respected. He's a member of the leicester group I think?

Thanks

[Which throttle linkage cr]

HI all

Usual TR6 running difficulties. I have the original linkage which unfortunately is now beyond its best and trying to balance the bodies is impossible so my running is very poor and rich. Question is which throttle linkage would you recommend. I don't want to spend a fortune and have looked at Malcolm's from prestige, Tr revington but are their others I should consider or names of contacts that could list the parts I could look to source myself and fabricate my own. All responses appreciated.

Thanks Richard

[Manifold air leaks]

Thanks Andy M - I'll try your suggestions tomorrow afternoon and report back.

[Manifold air leaks]

Ideally, but only if the butterflies are closed or pretty well, and there are no leaks in the spindle bearings.

Could you stall it before?

 

No air will get in through the m/u.

 

If the vacuum hose between m/u and manifold is leaking that can lead to overfuelllng but would then expect more lumpy idle rather than high idle.

 

What else did you do at the same time?

 

Having said all that a 700rpm idle is too slow anyway, so not really something to worry about.

 

Ivor

 

Thanks for the reply Ivor - I agree that 700rpm is too slow for the TR but I can only achieve this with the bleed valve closed. Before the MU change I could stall the car when valve closed so not sure why I can't now. I thought (and was hoping) that maybe with the MU change air could get through if it wasn't properly seated but reading your response this doesn't seem possible.

I haven't made any other changes to the car other than replacing the MU.

If I disconnect the brake pipe servo and put my finger over the outlet on the manifold to the brake servo will this illiminate any leakage through the brake servo?

[Manifold air leaks]

Just fitted a new metering unit from Prestige to my 73 CR TR6 - all working as expected however my tickover is now alot higher - I suspect air leaks. When I fully close the bleed screw the car still ticks over at c700 rpm. I've sprayed wd40 around all interconnecting pipes to see if I can pinpoint the leak but I can't. In changing the MU for a new one could it be possible that the seal between the new MU and its engine mounting is allowing air in. If not where else can I look. As I understand it the car should stall if all is set OK when you fully screw in the bleed screw.

[Throttle linkage]

Sent PM about linkage

 

Just like to say a massive thanks to Delboy who sent me his spare upper swivel post and wouldn't accept any money. It was posted after we had a good chat on Sunday - I received it this morning and have fitted it and am happy to report the assembly performes like new.

 

Just proves that forums such as this are a goldmine.

 

Many Thanks

Richard

[Throttle linkage]

Hi Guys - tried old posts but not come up with anything so looking to pick the TR6 knowledge bank again.

 

I have a problem with my throttle linkage assembly on my Pi 1973 CR car. The top swivel post has worn badly and is causing the throttle to rest at c 2000rpm. I've removed the item and taken pics (see below) to show wear. As you can see as well as the wear on the collar on the right side the thread is shot so a new one is due. The bottom swivel post isn't worn and still available through Moss / Rimmer however the top & typically that's the one I need isn't available anymore. Does anyone have a spare lying around or can anyone suggest an alternative component / other supply.

 

Much appreciated

[running rich]

Been out in the car today and noticed a stronger tan normal petrol smell accompanied by lumpy(ish) tickover and higher than usual fuel consumption. What would cause the car to run rich and what may requires adjustment or checking?

Thanks

Richard

[Black panel sealant]

Hi all - Really enjoyed the show at Stoneleigh yesterday after leaving the 6 in a time warp 70's carpark. It was good to meet lots of you.

Anyway - yesterday I noticed some cars have a bead of black sealant between the body and front and rear winga. I asked a number of people but we didn't conclude much. Anyone know where this sealant is available from etc.

 

Thanks

Richard

[Ride quality & koni setup]

Hi. Took the car out for a blast yesterday with the wife - big mistake! I've never given it any real thought (until yesterday) she kept moaning about the ride quality and I suppose to be fair to my 'princess' we all suffer, car included when going over the slightest bump, worst still when the car crosses those rubber strips over bridges. Anyway, last night I read some articles on the subject but need furter help. My car has Koni classics, I believe these are adjustable and married to standard springs all round. What is the best way to adjust these and what setting should I be looking for to improve things?

 

Thanks all - great forum

Richard

[Which exhaust?]

I just removed the Falcon twin-box system because it was too quiet

If the Phoenix equivalent is not louder I shall be annoyed.

 

Ivor

 

Hi Ivor - Let me know your thoughts on the Phoenix exhaust once swapped

 

Richard

[Which exhaust?]

Looks like the Pheonix system is the one to go for then. Where is the best place to buy - it has been suggested the manifold and box can be had for c £500?

[Which exhaust?]

Hi - Looking to change my current SS twin pipe exhaust system. The one I have was made by Falcon and is in my opinion too noisy. I like the look of the twin system however what I realy want is a system that:

a. improves power.

b. isn't as noisy as the Falcon

 

 

I think I may also need to include exhaust manifold to get the best results. can you therefore point me in the right direction with your suggestions.

 

Look forward to the comments.

[help - bonnet stuck]

Well the bonnet is now released. We managed to pop it out after undoing the left hand bonnet side hinge bolts amd wiggling the bonnet whilst Simon tugged the pull. Can't explain my relief when it poped out. As far as I acn see there is NO other way to release the bonnet other than this. It looks like the cable pull cord got caught internally so as a precaution I've fitted the Moss emergency bonnet pull.

 

Thanks to all who helped

[Performance]

The twin rear boxes tend to suffer from ground contact, but unless the silencer is blocked it will have no effect. If its baffles have blown out that would affect back-pressure which can be detrimental, but you'd hear it.

 

Test kit from here:

 

http://www.hydrotech...co.uk/index.htm

 

Pressure gauge: 0-160psi, 63mm dia. #9801-160.

Test point Tee 3/8" BSP (goes permanently betwixt metering unit and input flexible) #SNA02

Hose assy microbore 1000mm long #S100-AC-FA-01.00

 

Malcolm at Prestige also does a test kit.

http://www.prestigeinjection.net/

even though he still hasn't got round to mentioning it on his website.

He's a mine of information, and it would do you no harm to make contact. He will have thoughts on your performance deficit, and as he has restored a number of TRs his knowledge is not confined to the injection setup. He won't try and flog you stuff you don't need.

 

Ivor

 

Thanks for your help here Ivor will make contact with both

[OOOPS what damage have I done?]

I swapped out my battery earlier today and in doing so I placed the metal hold down strap on the front of the engine. The strap came to rest on the inlet manifold and the alternator casing. On reconnecting the battery...I forget which lead I did first +ve or -v...I noticed smoke coming from the alternator internals. I remove the battery lead and the smoke ceased. What damage have I done?

 

Sounds like you have shorted the alternator & in doing so cooked it, new alternator required.

[Performance]

Every half decent standard TR5 or 6 that I have seen do a true 1/4 mile test and been driven reasonably hard ie changing gear at +5500rpm and aggressive off the line has turned in a low 16sec time 16.1-16.4 normally being the range depending on technique. Well modified ones easily go into the 15's and my old saloon managed a 14.8.

 

A 16.2 1/4 mile corresponds to roughly a ~9sec 0-60 mph time but dirty plugs, retarded ignition, dodgy injector/s or lack of fuel pressure etc can easily add a second or two to the time.. I have seen it happen... a perfectly healthy car capable of 16.1secs do a 18.0sec run because of fouled plugs leading to very poor top end power.

 

The plugs are all new as is 1 injector. All fuel lines pulse well. Maybe I need to check fuel pressure and timing. Can you suggest an appropriate pressure tester capable of reading up to 120psi? I have the twin sports box, one of the silencers sounds very rattly, suspect the baffles are shot, can this also affect performance drastically?

[Performance]

That's about 6 seconds shy of what it was tested at back in the day...

 

That's what I thought, although I guess that car was the 150bhp model.

[Performance]

Owned the car for c.1 month now and thoroughly enjoy it (apart from the bonnet). My everyday car is a 335D BMW so I am used to plenty of 00mph. I appreciate we are talking light years between the BMW and the TR6 (and the Tr6 was brought for enjoyment not speed) however last weekend I decided to test my TR6's performance as I'm not convinced its performing as it should be. My car is the 125bhp PI CR model manufactured in 1973 and achieved the 0-60 benchmark run in 15.5 seconds. Is this a respectful time or am I missing something that needs further investigation.

Look forward to your responses.

[help - bonnet stuck]

Quick update - as mentioned the front grill is screwed from the inside so unless I break that & the radiator cowl behind there is no access here. Have tried pulling / pushing / banging the bonnet whilst a friend pulls at the bonnet release; didn't pop up. Have also tried carefully prising open at the front and side in the hope that I can at least see the little beasty. Again nothing.

So tomorrow evening in a cold garage armed with a long wooden stick, some ramps and Simon with his torch we are going to poke about and fingers crossed the damn catch will give up.

Thanks for all the help so far, this has to be the best forum on the net.

[Tickover slow to return]

Usually worn spindles and pivots in throttle the bodies. Replacement spindles were rare and expensive, I even think one of the three was un-available. You also needed to bush the bodies. I get by using an extra spring ( or two ) on the front spindle, but this makes the pedal stiffer. Perhaps bushes with a rubber O ring - anything to stop air being drawn in via the spindles - PTFE tape !!

 

Thanks to all who replyed - its now sorted.

Steve suggested amongst other things fitting 'extra springs' to the spindle. I checked this out - mine was springless so fitted a spring and hey presto perfect idle. Just the stuck bonnet to sort now!