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Everything posted by waterhouses

  1. Thanks for all your replies. I spoke to Scott at custom thrust washers, very impressed and easy transaction. Expecting delivery soon.
  2. Hi all Measured my end float this evening on the 6, its a 73 CR model. Checked a few times and confirmed its 0.012 inch. Book recommends 0.006 - 0.008 so I need to do some work. Is it worth going for an uprated thrust washer set and if so who should I turn to? Thanks as always. Regards Richard
  3. Well I've checked the thickness of the head and you're right Tony it measures 3.535", but how did my car end up with an African intended head? Is the UK spec CR head different and what would you suggest about my current pushrods at 8.30" which appear correct for a CR car. Incidentally my engine has a CR stamp on it so I'm assuming once (if possible) I have the head skimmed, performance will be transformed? Come to think of it the car has never performed as I would have expected but then I've not had anything to compare it with, that may also account for the very poor running? Thoughts!
  4. I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild on my 73 TR6 UK fuel injected CR car and have come across a problem. The cylinder head fitted to the car is stamped as 218227 which appears to be a low compression unit intended for Africa? I need to rebuild the head because of leaky valves and was wondering if skimming 3mm off the head would bring it back to a high compression CR head. Also would I need to replace my current 8.3 inch push rods (210mm) with shorter ones?. Thanks
  5. I'm interested in purchasing one of these throttle linkages. Does anyone have Reg Bowlers contact details, happarentlh he's manufactured a number and are well respected. He's a member of the leicester group I think? Thanks
  6. HI all Usual TR6 running difficulties. I have the original linkage which unfortunately is now beyond its best and trying to balance the bodies is impossible so my running is very poor and rich. Question is which throttle linkage would you recommend. I don't want to spend a fortune and have looked at Malcolm's from prestige, Tr revington but are their others I should consider or names of contacts that could list the parts I could look to source myself and fabricate my own. All responses appreciated. Thanks Richard
  7. Thanks Andy M - I'll try your suggestions tomorrow afternoon and report back.
  8. Thanks for the reply Ivor - I agree that 700rpm is too slow for the TR but I can only achieve this with the bleed valve closed. Before the MU change I could stall the car when valve closed so not sure why I can't now. I thought (and was hoping) that maybe with the MU change air could get through if it wasn't properly seated but reading your response this doesn't seem possible. I haven't made any other changes to the car other than replacing the MU. If I disconnect the brake pipe servo and put my finger over the outlet on the manifold to the brake servo will this illiminate any leakage through the brake servo?
  9. Just fitted a new metering unit from Prestige to my 73 CR TR6 - all working as expected however my tickover is now alot higher - I suspect air leaks. When I fully close the bleed screw the car still ticks over at c700 rpm. I've sprayed wd40 around all interconnecting pipes to see if I can pinpoint the leak but I can't. In changing the MU for a new one could it be possible that the seal between the new MU and its engine mounting is allowing air in. If not where else can I look. As I understand it the car should stall if all is set OK when you fully screw in the bleed screw.
  10. Just like to say a massive thanks to Delboy who sent me his spare upper swivel post and wouldn't accept any money. It was posted after we had a good chat on Sunday - I received it this morning and have fitted it and am happy to report the assembly performes like new. Just proves that forums such as this are a goldmine. Many Thanks Richard
  11. Hi Guys - tried old posts but not come up with anything so looking to pick the TR6 knowledge bank again. I have a problem with my throttle linkage assembly on my Pi 1973 CR car. The top swivel post has worn badly and is causing the throttle to rest at c 2000rpm. I've removed the item and taken pics (see below) to show wear. As you can see as well as the wear on the collar on the right side the thread is shot so a new one is due. The bottom swivel post isn't worn and still available through Moss / Rimmer however the top & typically that's the one I need isn't available anymore. Does anyone have a spare lying around or can anyone suggest an alternative component / other supply. Much appreciated
  12. Been out in the car today and noticed a stronger tan normal petrol smell accompanied by lumpy(ish) tickover and higher than usual fuel consumption. What would cause the car to run rich and what may requires adjustment or checking? Thanks Richard
  13. Hi all - Really enjoyed the show at Stoneleigh yesterday after leaving the 6 in a time warp 70's carpark. It was good to meet lots of you. Anyway - yesterday I noticed some cars have a bead of black sealant between the body and front and rear winga. I asked a number of people but we didn't conclude much. Anyone know where this sealant is available from etc. Thanks Richard
  14. Hi. Took the car out for a blast yesterday with the wife - big mistake! I've never given it any real thought (until yesterday) she kept moaning about the ride quality and I suppose to be fair to my 'princess' we all suffer, car included when going over the slightest bump, worst still when the car crosses those rubber strips over bridges. Anyway, last night I read some articles on the subject but need furter help. My car has Koni classics, I believe these are adjustable and married to standard springs all round. What is the best way to adjust these and what setting should I be looking for to improve things? Thanks all - great forum Richard
  15. Hi Ivor - Let me know your thoughts on the Phoenix exhaust once swapped Richard
  16. Looks like the Pheonix system is the one to go for then. Where is the best place to buy - it has been suggested the manifold and box can be had for c £500?
  17. Hi - Looking to change my current SS twin pipe exhaust system. The one I have was made by Falcon and is in my opinion too noisy. I like the look of the twin system however what I realy want is a system that: a. improves power. b. isn't as noisy as the Falcon I think I may also need to include exhaust manifold to get the best results. can you therefore point me in the right direction with your suggestions. Look forward to the comments.
  18. Well the bonnet is now released. We managed to pop it out after undoing the left hand bonnet side hinge bolts amd wiggling the bonnet whilst Simon tugged the pull. Can't explain my relief when it poped out. As far as I acn see there is NO other way to release the bonnet other than this. It looks like the cable pull cord got caught internally so as a precaution I've fitted the Moss emergency bonnet pull. Thanks to all who helped
  19. Thanks for your help here Ivor will make contact with both
  20. Sounds like you have shorted the alternator & in doing so cooked it, new alternator required.
  21. The plugs are all new as is 1 injector. All fuel lines pulse well. Maybe I need to check fuel pressure and timing. Can you suggest an appropriate pressure tester capable of reading up to 120psi? I have the twin sports box, one of the silencers sounds very rattly, suspect the baffles are shot, can this also affect performance drastically?
  22. That's what I thought, although I guess that car was the 150bhp model.
  23. Owned the car for c.1 month now and thoroughly enjoy it (apart from the bonnet). My everyday car is a 335D BMW so I am used to plenty of 00mph. I appreciate we are talking light years between the BMW and the TR6 (and the Tr6 was brought for enjoyment not speed) however last weekend I decided to test my TR6's performance as I'm not convinced its performing as it should be. My car is the 125bhp PI CR model manufactured in 1973 and achieved the 0-60 benchmark run in 15.5 seconds. Is this a respectful time or am I missing something that needs further investigation. Look forward to your responses.
  24. Quick update - as mentioned the front grill is screwed from the inside so unless I break that & the radiator cowl behind there is no access here. Have tried pulling / pushing / banging the bonnet whilst a friend pulls at the bonnet release; didn't pop up. Have also tried carefully prising open at the front and side in the hope that I can at least see the little beasty. Again nothing. So tomorrow evening in a cold garage armed with a long wooden stick, some ramps and Simon with his torch we are going to poke about and fingers crossed the damn catch will give up. Thanks for all the help so far, this has to be the best forum on the net.
  25. Thanks to all who replyed - its now sorted. Steve suggested amongst other things fitting 'extra springs' to the spindle. I checked this out - mine was springless so fitted a spring and hey presto perfect idle. Just the stuck bonnet to sort now!
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