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Iain M

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About Iain M

  • Birthday 07/30/1973

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  • Location
    Sheffield
  • Cars Owned:
    1969 TR6 CP

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  1. I had similar at night with a running engine (no issue with starting brightness though). Try removing the speedometer illumination bulb temporarily from the back and see if that stops the dim glow on the oil pressure lamp. It did on mine so i suspect some internal bulb shrouding in the speedo is missing/damaged.
  2. Mick, I've sent you a PM too if you could send me the article. Thanks.
  3. No Roger, but now ive refitted it (and the diff etc) I am tempted to see how the other upgrades have changed the vibration before dropping it all again. Thanks.
  4. Thanks all. The vibration (felt like it was under the seat) would occur above 70mph in OD top, and could sometimes be reduced by decelerating and quickly reapplying power. I am in the process of changing the worn driveshafts for the uprated rislan-coated type, and have now fitted the uprated GKN-type UJs throughout the drivetrain. I haven't road-tested since, but hope that these changes, together with replacement of a sloppy-fitting wire wheel spline, may have already reduced or removed the vibration regardless of the UJ angles, but i wanted to be sure I had removed all possible causes. To be honest, I would still prefer to get the prop UJs operating at the lower end of the working angle tolerance band anyway in order to get maximum life out of them so will give the gearbox and engine mounts a check too.
  5. Waldi, They're below the flange as per the moss catalogue illustration.
  6. If 7 degrees is acceptable i suppose i could drop the gearbox tail a tad to get it to 5 degrees though! Thanks.
  7. Well both UJs are individually within a 7 degree spec, but the diffence between ends 2.5 degrees.
  8. I recently read an article regarding UJs in propshaft applications that recommended that the working angles of each UJs should be between 1/2 and 3 degrees for longevity, and that the difference between the two angles at each end should not be more that half a degree to avoid vibration. My 6 has terrible vibration at motorway speeds so i thought it worthwhile to check them (inclinometer apps on mobile phones provide accuracy to 0.1 deg). I found working angles at the gearbox- and diff UJs of 2.5 degs tail down and 5 degrees nose up respectively. In order to get the rear UJ angle down to 2-3 degrees to meet the guidance i have tried to lower the diff nose. Changing the front upper diff rubbers made the latter worse (became +6 degs) as the new ones proved thinner than the old ones, raising the diff nose instead. Im now looking for thicker upper rubbers, but i note that theres not a great deal of thread remaining on the front pins to achieve the drop required. I guess raising the diff rear would also work, but i can only see this being achieved through packing washers between the diff casing and the rear rubbers, which is a bit of a bodge. Has anyone any experience or advice with this? Have you checked/adjusted your UJ angles to within the 3 degree/ 1/2 degree recommendations or am i seeking perfection where it never existed with in the first place? Thanks, Iain
  9. Iain M

    TR6 purchase

    I would recommend buying a copy of Roger Williams' book "Triumph-TR6-Essential-Buyers-Guide"- it's very well structured pocket-sized checklist of everything to look out for, and the potential costly pitfalls.
  10. There is already an oil feed to the rockers through the head face (at the back of the head). The external feed is an aftermarket item that feeds more oil to the rockers ( but hence less to the bearings and possibly why your pressure drops when hot). Rocker shafts are cheaper to replace than crankshafts- ditch the external oil feed as Neil suggests.
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