RobH

Whether that is possible will depend on just how modern the cars are. You may not find any wires to disconnect - for the last decade at least, most cars have used a computer 'bus' system for their electrics and sensors - usually CAN bus - and things like switches are often plugged directly into it. Interfere with that at your peril.

Why should you need to keep topping up? Just don't over-fill it in the first place. Removing and replacing the pressure cap doesn't stress the neck if done properly because the force required is a twisting one. You don't need to lean on it, it screws itself down with a finger-tip twisting motion.

Do you have wire wheels? If so it could be worn splines.

https://www.vehiclescene.com/does-motor-oil-expire/ https://mechanictimes.com/engine-oil-expiry/

There have been a couple of recent threads about this Richard. Sources are mentioned in the thread.

This was my home-made solution which fits in place of the original box: ff f

Ah, a special one-day offer Stuart?

Some fan motors can take a very large current when they start up Dave, though I would have expected 20A to be sufficient to allow for that. (Of course it might be that a 35A fuse was found necessary by a previous owner.) A fuel pump doesn't usually take much current so a 7.5A fuse should probably be fine, but you could check on the type of pump to see what the draw actually is. Both 'continuous carry' ratings.

I believe all PCCs are up for election in May. That's something else I was never asked whether I wanted. I intend to write to that effect on the ballot paper, as to me the post is just another pointless layer of bureaucracy.

This particular vulnerability is very much self-inflicted. If we as customers had insisted on having a physical mechanical key - rather than the wireless fob that no-one actually asked for but which was more-or-less forced on us by marketing - the vulnerability would not exist. It should not be incumbent on us to buy more preventive measures, it should be on the maker of the car not to generate the problem in the first place.

As Roger says, it is fairly common for more modern car radios to incorporate a shut-down circuit to prevent damage to the output transistors from short circuits. Back in the 1970s they generally didn't, so most radio repair shops kept a good stock of OC28 or 2N3055 transistors depending on the age of the radio........

I doubt things were much cleaner back then Ian. I remember as a kid during the '50s, swimming in the Solent and watching the - er- detritus float past. Every year there was a polio scare, allegedly caught by swimming in contaminated water. This was Oxford, upstream of Henley: "In 1952 the city's sewerage system was described as 'probably the most backward in the country" (A History of the County of Oxford, volume 4)

I really don't know why you feel the need to use sealing goop on every joint Richard. The rubber washers are designed to do the job unaided if you assemble the joint correctly. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/fuel-system-induction-controls/carburettors-manifolds/carburettors-air-filters-h6-su-tr3-tr3a-tr4-1955-65.html

The Moss catalogue shows collars above and below the spacer

Yes - apologies if that was a bit of a rant Richard but I spent a fair proportion of my working life trying to stop people electrocuting themselves - and that video is an object lesson in what you should not do.

I've just watched the video - DO NOT DO WHAT HE DOES. It is potentially lethal and the video should be withdrawn in my opinion. 1/ DO NOT play around with mains powered equipment on a un- earthed metal bench. 2/ DO NOT plug the thing in with the covers off whilst holding onto it. 3/ Water and electrics do not mix - he made no attempt to drain the thing before starting. It is best not to run anything with the covers off but sometimes it is the only way to fault-find. The only safe way to functionally-test the thing is to clamp it securely to a non-

You're slightly behind the curve I'm afraid. Toby is a member on here ( BaulyCars ) and has posted quite a bit over the past year or so both on setting up his business and the bits he has made. E.G. 14th post down on this thread: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/84661-h-bracket/&tab=comments#comment-808041

The axle is covered here: http://tr4a.weebly.com/uploads/2/1/9/8/21980360/triumph_tr2_tr3_tr3a_factory_service_manual_part3.pdf

Air won't drive an aerosol spray in the same way as Butane. The 'triple point' of butane is a bit less than 5psi at room temperature, which means that above that pressure it is a liquid. That means that an aerosol can charged with liquid butane will maintain a fairly constant pressure until all the butane liquid has turned to gas, so the aerosol spray is also pretty constant. A can pressurised with air has no reservoir of pressure so it will rapidly go from a good spray to a dribble as the pressure dies.

These: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/goodridge-speed-bleeder-243452/ https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/goodridge-speed-bleeder-bleed-nipple-g-bn These and the pipe types both rely on the bleed nipple having a well-sealed thread, as otherwise they will draw air back in that way when you release the pedal.

I tried one - it didn't work at all well. I think the problem was getting a vacuum seal around the bleed-nipple threads.

No there's no other way of testing the capillary type gauge Ian. It's possible yours has lost some of its ether due to a fracture in the pipe or there may be something wrong with the bourdon tube connection to the needle.

Possibly oil-pressure related. Firstly is the gearbox oil level OK? Secondly is the overdrive sump filter clean ? (it's under the rectangular plate on the bottom but you have to drain the oil ). It could also be the solenoid but if the fault clears after a while that is less likely.

Yes but it doesn't hurt to connect both in parallel - I added a note about that to the end of my earlier post so perhaps you didn't see it: