RobH

Ideally all circuits should be individually fused, as they are on a modern car. That way you have protection for the smaller wiring and lose only one function in the event of a fault but it does imply a considerable change from the standard arrangement. A compromise would be to fuse the major feeds only which should include the lighting circuits - it's a puzzle why Triumph never did that really as it is pretty easy to arrange. Doing that does imply having to use higher-rated fuses though, so the skinnier wiring downstream isn't quite as well protected.

That was me Peter - you need the TR6 switch and a high current diode. These days I would use a big schottky diode (20SQ080) rather than the one shown. This shows it for a negative-earth system.

It's pretty obvious by inspection if you just remove the dizzy cap. If the electronic module is mounted on the same movable plate as used for the old points, with the spring from the adjuster to the spigot, the fine adjustment will be operative. If there's no link and the top plate is obviously fixed, it won't be operative. (I think this pic is a US spec dizzy - yours may have the adjuster the other way round)

Unfortunately you are right that the loom may have been compromised David. If the part of the wire in the open-air has melted, any part of it bundled inside the loom will have been even hotter and may have done damage which will only become apparent with time, even if you do replace the bits you know about. Sorry that isn't exactly 'helpful'.

Sounds like you may have the wrong switch I'm afraid or else it is defective. The one for the DR3a motor is special and if that motor was original to your car your switch ought to be the right sort. The standard after-market switches sold for two-speed wipers don't work the right way and neither does the TR6 switch. Do you know the type number of what you have?

Yes it is how the switch works.

I think with a points system you just need to set the fine adjustment to the centre of its travel before setting the timing by rotating the body. There shouldn't then be enough travel in the adjuster to cause this problem.

Yes "Forlife" is just a ready-mixed water/antifreeze solution, not the waterless stuff being discussed. Interestingly, there is a warning on the instruction sheet: "Not suitable for non-pressurised cooing systems and vehicles fitted with grease packed water pumps." Not a problem for TRs but I guess that must be something to do with the corrosion inhibitor used. They also warn against mixing it with anything else, maybe for the same reason.

Not quite Roger - it's the fast speed that is obtained by weakening the field. "Eclem"- to get slow speed you MUST connect both 'slow' and 'fast' wires to earth at the same time. If you connect just the slow wire the resistance Roger mentions is put in series with the armature which is what eventually burns it out and is why the motor hardly runs. ( If it was still going round you probably haven't burnt the wire out yet. I guess you didn't have the motor body earthed either during your test , else the self-park wiper would have operated, making the speed go up and down. ).

Sorry for the mis-attribution Howard. Obviously I didn't read it properly.

For most it's little different from operating the standard arrangement except you can't go direct from 4 OD>3 OD - (but then why would you want to?) The logic box turns OD off when you change gear, so if you are in 4 OD and just change down instead of turning OD off, it goes direct to 3rd giving a lot more acceleration potential.

Info here Nigel. https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/csem/ethylene-propylene-glycol/propylene_glycol.html "....the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) (FDA 2017). FDA considers an average daily dietary intake of 23 mg/kg of body weight to be safe for persons 2–65 years of age....."

Without a logic box, changing up from OD2 or OD3 takes you to OD3 or OD4 respectively. To go from OD2> direct 3rd means having to change gear and then operate the switch to turn the OD off. The logic box does the OD switching for you so you go directly from OD2 to direct third etc, much more like having a close-ratio gearbox. The on/off switch is replaced by a momentary one, either a flick switch or push button. Ie Without logic box : 2nd >switch on >2 OD 2OD >change gear> 3 OD.> switch off> 3rd 3rd> switch on > 3 OD 3 OD> chan

Yes there is other stuff in there but they don't say what percentage. The MSDS says: "Patented blend of synthetic diols with ADH Enzyme blocker and non-aqueous corrosion Inhibitors for I.C. engines"

Glycol is completely miscible with water , so will form a mixture as soon as it comes in contact with circulating water, it won't stay as a separate layer underneath. If it were otherwise how could you mix bluecol with water when you re-fill ?

Er - is this a solid axle '4 Paul as your avatar data implies, not a '4A ?

This describes adjustment of the self-park. I think it's written for RR owners so the switch and wiring colours are different but the mechanics should be the same: http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/Maintaining_and_repairing_the_Lucas_16W_wiper_motor-18280-21198.pdf

The fact is they are an investment company, and the only thing which will really matter to them is how much return they can get and how quickly. The companies they invest in are not an end in themselves, they are a merely a means to an end which can be disposed of when no longer productive. Moss and Rimmer now have a whole new layer of people who will have to be remunerated. Given that the size of the classic-car-parts market is pretty much fixed, surely that can only be done by increasing prices, reducing costs, or disposal of assets.

Effective as an antifreeze perhaps but what about anti - corrosion? I understand that using up the corrosion inhibitors is why normal coolant is recommended to be swapped often - not loss of its antifreeze properties.

On the standard (late)car schematic I have, the ballast resistance is part of the wiring loom Steve, not a discrete resistor. Power to the coil comes from a starter relay (maybe the plain white wire you have?) The wire feeding the coil is connected to the ballast wire (white/yellow) , giving 6V (ish) to the coil for normal running, and also goes to a relay contact which during cranking makes to a direct 12V feed from the battery. A second contact on the same relay energises the starter solenoid at the same time. A white/ black wire is feed to the points and white/grey goes to the tacho

Yes he can. https://www.gbnews.com/lifestyle/cadbury-change-chocolate-fat-sugar

I wouldn't be surprised if the Moss shops disappeared too, in favour of on-line sales only from a central warehouse.

Those are both Lucas-pattern alternators Richard - your old one is an A127 while the new one is an ACR type. There are a wide variety of terminal arrangements for both types but the thin brown wire to the circled terminal is a voltage sensing wire for the regulator. That isn't necessary on the new alternator and must be insulated and left disconnected . Insulation is important as the wire is connected direct to battery live. You should have a heavy brown wire ( or sometimes two) going to the large spade terminals and a smaller yellow/brown wire going to the small spade in the group of

Yes- restricted by the RoHS Directive, which is why silver-solder has changed too as the good low-temperature stuff (Easiflo) had cadmium in it.