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...and both are both much, much longer than the gizmo in question and vey much simpler John. Your explanation is certainly a possibility but I am not yet convinced. We really need to see the other side of it.......
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It looks a bit short for that - surely the smaller cylinder would obstruct? I wonder whether it is telescopic so the business end extends further? That could be the reason for the button/screw - some sort of catch to hold it retracted ? The shape of the handles suggests you grip them together. Maybe there is a spring in the smaller tube and the handle is to hold it compressed.....
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No that is a button, not a screw - when enlarged you can see a gap all the way round beneath it. The whole thing is sitting well above the surface of the glass on the black 'puck' so it cannot be a reflection in the glass - the tip must be bifurcated. The smaller cylinder above with the second handle, seems to be attached to the larger cylinder by solder.
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The exhibits above it are about tyre pumps so it may be nothing to do with gardening. The slot below the handle looks to allow rotation and the button above the tip must be there for a reason. The tip looks to be bifurcated rather than bullet-shaped - I don't think the dark area is a reflection in the glass as it is the wrong shape and there appears to be a corner visible at the bottom next to the seam.
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Obviously an exercise by someone who is not a car enthusiast and who doesn't know how a car works. AI - generated of course. It is inconsistent, with things changing or moving round depending on the view - the dash for instance which in one view makes no sense at all. I am beginning to hate those computer-generated voice-overs too. Their pronunciation and emphasis on words is really weird at times.
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Wanted TR5/6 4 terminal wiper switch
RobH replied to trchris's topic in For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
It's a pity that he used so many similar-coloured wires. That will make tracing circuits extremely difficult. -
That durite switch is a double-pole double-throw centre off switch. That means 3 connects to 1 or 5, 4 connects to 2 or 6 and in the middle position nothing is connected. The original switch is like half of that if you use it as shown above, with the 2 and 4 pins connected to make one middle connection.
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Thanks for posting that Ken - there seem to be two threads running on this subject at the moment and I have commented on the other one. For those interested, that circuit is for negative-earth only (as all 5s and 250s should be of course).
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Wanted TR5/6 4 terminal wiper switch
RobH replied to trchris's topic in For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
Chris - I don't know whether you are aware of it but the three and four terminal switches do completely different things in the pattern of switching. As Peter says, the switch needs to match the wiper motor in your car. The two-speed DR3 motor can be damaged by using the wrong switching pattern and the original four-terminal switch cannot provide the right pattern for that motor. It can be made to work using external relays or similar but it isn't a straightforward swap. -
That's true Phil but really accurate points gap setting isn't too critical in normal driving - it only makes a significant difference at high revs. What you are trying to achieve is a 'dwell' time which is long enough for the coil to achieve saturation with them closed, while also giving a suitable spark time when they are open. At the kind of revs used in normal touring - say up to 4500rpm - there is enough time for both even if the points are set a thou' or two wrongly.
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That isn't really a problem Adey as I have explained before. Just because an alternator is rated at (say) 45A does not mean it will always supply that much - it only supplies what it is asked for up to that limit. Appreciable current will only flow through the ammeter immediately after starting when the battery 'asks' for a re-charge, and uprating the alternator will not alter what the battery 'asks for' so the charging current should be more-or-less the same as before - if you are worried about it just refrain from revving the engine hard immediately after starting. The ammeter is a
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Here y' go Ray, measured as accurately as I can: outside diameter. 19.7 mm (0.775 inch) not critical- it just allows for spring wall thickness. 0.43mm. (17 thou) height. 25.4mm (1 inch) The cylinder is cut as you can see in the photos above, and is slightly springy so it grips over the cam lobes. now comes the odd bit - The '14/16' thou feeler is 0.93 mm thick (36 thou) , the '10/12' thou feeler is 0.8mm thick (32 thou) so it isn't a straight arithmetical subtraction as you might have expected. This is to account for the geometry of the points,
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Oh that takes me back Roger. The train from Portsmouth Harbour over the Langstone bridge to Hayling. Such a long time ago, in another world......
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Splendid Peter. I have one that goes "Aoogha " on my M-type, so I can sympathise with him.
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My Xmas tree lights are on a clockwork timer....... At least that plug gives you the choice whether to 'wifi' the kettle or not. My gripe is with the kit that doesn't give you the choice. Plus of course all this extra complication just makes things less reliable and very difficult to repair.