angelfj
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Posts posted by angelfj
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$ 3200 for a pair of Aeroscreens is pricy but when have you ever seen an original pair for sale before ! Complete with rubber seals .
Compared to wheel spats its a bargain !
The Suite case is interesting , looks a great copy . Believe the original ones came in whatever colour your car was . Know of someone who borrowed a Geranium one to put in his Geranium car . It was an exprensive accessory , plus when you put it in your boot you will not get anything else in !
yours David
David, et al: Yes, the suitcase is very nice. I will ring the guy or send him an email and ask for a quote. Gee, maybe we can get a quantity discount! I am sure that Bill Piggott could answer many of the questions regarding this sort of trivia. Does anyone know if Bill is accessible? Does anyone have his email or home address?
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Hi Frank,
$3000 ??!! The phrase 'more money than sense' comes to mind . . . and I still don't think they were TR items.
If you look at the main TR Register homepage, go to the left hand menu, click on 'member services' and scroll down, you'll find Mervyn Parkes - Spares Development Fund Treasurer. He's your man. Contact him via the office, he's not into the age of email yet.
Cheers,
Alec
Thank you Alec. Yes I quite agree. I may be over for the Stoneleigh show (via a business trip), and will try to hook up with Mervyn.
BTW, I am 99.999 percent certain that the screens on ebay were genuine. But $3K - unbelievable. More money than sense, yes. But we have lots over here, many dinks , too. (dual income, no kids).
New sub topic, if I may. Have you ever seen a TR "fitted suitcase"? There's a guy here in the states who claims that he can produce a very correct knock-off. Check this out.
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Hi Frank
Looks like it coming on a treat, but it didn't look too bad from the top photo, but I guess the outer panels were shot to bits?
Any other photos before you started, or did you buy it half stripped?
How about an article for TRAction, maybe in the 'Rebuilders Dairies' section?
Keep us posted, it looks cracking so far!
Cheers
Andrew
Andrew: as we say here I have photos out the yazoo, Here are a few more shots showing more metal worm damage. I bought this car from a retire Bell Labs engineer in 1986. He was the original owner and his 4 sons used (and abused) it for basic transportation whilst at college. I must say that the car looked much better before we started taking her apart. There was quite a bit of damage where the inner and outer wings meet, main floors and boot floor. In some places there were tiny holes through the steel, almost like pin holes. Thats all behind us now.
I would be delighted to have this project featured in TRaction. Is there an official format or do I just write up something and email it to the editor?
All the best, Frank
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Now in our 7th year of this project, we can begin to report that progress is being made. But . . . . will it ever end???
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Hi Frank,
It's some time since I've seen an original TR2 aeroscreen, but my recollection is of slightly radiused internal and external corners all round on the frame - typical mid-1950s; rather than the generally more angular screens of the 30s and 40s.
Certainly the screens on ebay are very close, and they might be authentic - but they do seem a tad sharp on the frame corners. There were several proprietary makers of aeroscreens, and they all looked pretty similar, but that doesn't mean OE units were necessarily interchangeable any more than aftermarket accessories . . .
Bill Piggott should know the answer - he's an authority on Healeys as well as TRs.
Cheers,
Alec
The auction just ended. Almost $3000 for both!!! Crazy! I enjoyed watching it, but it was too rich for my blood. Well, I guess I'll keep looking and perhaps I'll find that elusive one to use for our sample.
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Hate to p**s on his chips but i have just measured the hole centres on my TR2 TS1013 and they are 13 1/4" and he does say they came off a Healey Silverstone. So my question is are they the same?
Stuart
Stuart, et al: if anyone has an authentic screen, would there be any trade marks, logos or other indications that the Ebay ones are the real thing? Thanks
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Thanks John,
Will keep them in mind for any gauge work etc, hve heard alot of good reports about them.
In the end i put a small amount of Chemical metal onto cable then pushed it into sleeve.
Works perfectly.
Cheers
Guy.
Guy: For what it's worth, here in the states it is quite common to remove a defective angle drive and using a longer speedo cable, go straight into the trans. When routing the cable be sure to use a generous radius in your bends. Good luck.
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Can someone tell me if there is a significant difference between these two types of LUCAS windscreen wiper motors?
Thanks in advance.
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I came across a photo of an aero screen in a French TR website. See attached. Now, if you will, please compare it to the photo that I had originally posted. There are distinct differences. The one in France has a different shape and appears to be made from alloy in a dull finish. You can barely make out the words "aero screen" The one I posted, which I was told by the source was original, has a brite finish and slightly different shape. Can't tell if there are any words stamped in the frame. It also has a rubber seal fitted to go between the scuttle and the bottom of the screen. Does anyone have an opinion as to which one apprears to be correct? Thanks in advance.
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I recently purchased a '54 TR2...the car needs some resto work to make it roadworthy.
I have one question...could this car have had a white steering wheel? There IS a white one on the car, It's weathered...but it's white!
I have never seen anything in my collection of books regarding a white steering wheel in a TR-2. Perhaps it is a transplant from another Triumph or Standard model with compatible dimensions and fittings. You might try asking someone at TRA.
Cheers
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We've been here before... talked to the person you mention above, but then nothing...
I then had someone else lined up to manufacture some replicas but could find no one to lend us some originals! Had buyers lined up as well...
Sent an e-mail asking about the spares fund... nothing happened there ...
This must have been two years ago!
Clive: This has become rather circuitous. However, I have a source (in England) who has pledged an original aero screen as a loaner. If your manufacturing contact is still willing to take this on we may have some hope of reviving this project. Are you willing to contact him and inquire? You can send me a private post if you prefer.
Thanks,
Frank
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I want to re-post the original photo of my lower tag. I imagine I could solder this plate to another "backing" plate and carefully "restore" what remains, then remove any excess of the backing plate?
Cheers, Frank
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Frank, I regret that the answer is no to all questions. I did not really expect a reply as I had not added stamped addressed envelope. I just wanted to add my vote to the project. Before I heard of this project I was wondering about making up a bracket that fitted the fixings found on TR2/3 and early 3A that a standard aero screen could then fix on to. Obviously completely original style aeroscreens would be much better, but if there is a problem re glass it may be a reasonable second best solution? Regards Bill
Bill: Thank you for the response. It is amazing, isn't it, how convenient this email business has become. I mean, the old snail mail just doesn't seem to be adequate anymore. But, if someone doesn't have access to a computer, that's the problem. We have email service in most of our public libraries. During the day you will find many oldies (OAP's) tapping away at the keyboard. I guess that will be me in a few years. :-)
I have had correspondence with another chap in this forum who says that he knows Ken and hopefully he can establish just what happened to the original project he started.
Cheers,
Frank
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I'm considering a short trip across the pond next February for the Stoneleigh Triumph show. Is it possible to hire a TR to drive that weekend?
Cheers, Frank
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Hi Frank, I too would be interested in a pair for my early TR2 TS362 L (now right hand drive), I did write to Ken a couple of months ago to express interest through a club initiative (?) but do not know if this is still going ahead. Regards, Bill
Bill: Did Ken reply to your letter? Do you know his telephone number or email address?
Thanks
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I too have been looking without success.
The only "reverse punch" sets on the market are too small and expensive.
I am planning on casting some moulds from the build plate using a hard material - either a resin base such as Araldite steel or a cement based material. With a mould of each side truly aligned it should be possible to press new numbers into a piece of brass plate using a vice.
The moulds only need last for one or two pressings. Brass sheet should be available from a model makers shop or similar.
I have a piece of scrap brass that will do and will trial on a spare bit first.
Sounds like an ingeneous solution. Please let me know if this works.
Cheers
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I'm curious to know everyone's opinion on the addition of a petrol stabiliser to see the car over the winter. The product claims seem to suggest it's good for all injection components, stopping them sticking up over a period of inactivity. I've never bothered with such a product with carburettor cars but maybe it would be wise to add it to a full tank of petrol in a PI car over the winter. The TR is finally running like a dream after 15 months of sorting, so I don't want to have to take the injection system to bits (for the umpteenth time) next spring.
Your thoughts would be appreciated as I can't find any postings in the archives. There is a POR-15 stabiliser product available from Frost's which I can readily obtain as Frost's are only down the road from me.
many thanks
Ray
I just put my 250 to sleep for the winter. For the past 21 years (since it was restored) I follow the same routine each November. When its time I take her out for a run until I have less than 1/8-tank of gas remaining. I installed a fuel cut-off valve, similar to my TR-3A. I close this valve and run the engine until it stalls from fuel starvation. This empties the carbs. I then pour a bit of the stabilizer in the tank and wait until Spring. When I start it for the first time in the Spring, I first put a couple of gallons of fresh gas in the tank, then I open the shut-off valve, and prime the carbs (the original fuel pumps had a manual lever). This routine has never failed me. In a PI car, I suspect it would be a bit more critical to prevent a build-up of varnish and other contaminents in the fuel, but if you are storing your car for several weeks the stabilizer wont hurt. It is advisable to have as empty a tank as possible prior to the dormant period. Good luck.
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Hi Peter,
Thanks for taking time out to organise this. I shall do my best to attend. The only weekend that is out for me is the Stag National on 11th/12th August.
regards
Ray
Ray: I would love to join you albeit without the 250. Unless you are providing ferry service.
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Folks: I've apparently run into another road block in the ongoing 6-year restoration of TS58476LO, a 1960 model TR-3A. The lower body-shell ID tag is almost completely perished. These cars had two metal tags or plates on the bulkhead just above the battery. The upper metal tag, made of mild steel or brass , was applied by Mulliners when they produced the shell. Since these shells were delivered to Canley completely painted in the finish colour, the upper tag is generally found painted. Some enthusiasts remove the paint and buff them, but this is not the way the cars were sold. The lower metal plate, made of brass, was attached by the Canley plant when the car was assembled. It was not painted. It is this lower brass tag that I need. I ordered a build record from BMIHT and the correct numbers are 1061887 for the lower tag. The Mulliners tag is fine.
The difficulty with these tags is the way the characters are applied. They are embossed, not stamped or engraved. The letters and numbers actually stand proud of the surface of the tag. Embossed metal tags are still used here in the USA. They are found as ID tags for heavy machinery and sometimes used by foundries to identify castings. When used for castings, the characters are reverse embossed, so that the resulting characters stand proud of the casting. The metal tags on our Triumphs are embossed normally. I have searched for a few years for someone that can reproduce these tags. I have found shops that do embossing, but the numbers are either too small or the wrong font. These tags are 7/8-inch high by 3 1/2-inches wide, and the characters are approx. 3/8-inch high, centered on the tag. The tags are rounded at the ends and have two mounting holes.
So, if anyone knows of a source of the tags or someone who can reproduce them, I would be very grateful.
The attached photo was supplied by Mr. Harry Ward one of our mates on the US British Car Forum. These plates belong to his 1959 TR-3A.
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Alan: I'm new to the forum and have interest in a project to develop a high quality reproduction of the original TR aeroscreens. Did you ever find any? See my post tonight in TR-3 forum and classified adverts.
Cheers, Frank
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Some time ago, in 2003 I believe, a TR enthusiast in the UK attempted to have Triumph TR Aeroscreens reproduced. He was working from an original pair that he owned. Apparently he ran into some difficulties regarding the safety glass. To my knowledge, he never completed the project. As I plan to retire soon, I am willing to take on this challenge and, with a little bit of luck and help from some of you, may succeed.
The purpose of this post is threefold, first to say that I am interested in having authentic Triumph aeroscreens reproduced, second to get a feel for the level of interest amongst our sidescreen TR ownership and third to locate an original aeroscreen from which to prepare engineering drawings and specifications.
So, please let me know if you might be interested in contributing to this effort in some way, and if you know of the whereabouts of an original aeroscreen.
Many thanks,
Frank Angelini
Downingtown, PA USA
TR3A TS58476LO (under restoration)
TR250 CD1510LO
Speedometer Angle Drive
in TR6 Forum
Posted
The repro stuff available from major suppliers in the states are very poor quality and expensive ($100). Many of us (TR-250/6) have removed the angle drive and using a longer cable, run straight from the trans to the speedo.