Rodbr
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Posts posted by Rodbr
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Hi Alan,
My sincere condolences on your loss.
I have first hand experience of this as I had a heart attack at 37 years old, but survived luckily. Otherwise healthy, not overweight, but high risk from life long smoking (their words).
In my case my cholesterol as only slightly high, lungs totally clear, BFI acceptable, therefore no reason for it. At the time I was under severe stress due to personal family issues.
It did come to light that family history could have contributed, my father had had a Heart attack in his 50's but with bypass surgery he lived till he was 92.
It highlighted to me that many people are sitting on time bombs and a simple diabetic and cholesterol check could have saved the issue.
It is my firm belief that stress is a very much overlooked life hazard and the effects are life threatening.
I did however have a further heart attack and subsequent triple bypass some 25 years ago so I am probably on borrowed time.
Finally I would raise the question of the Virus injections being inked to deaths in younger people, but ho really knows.
Hopefully as the weeks and months go by your loss will start to heal.
best regards
Rod
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I am looking at Truck bed liner paint (clear) after polishing again.
I will also look at adhesive film to cover after and re[lace as necessary.
Rod
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Any tips on how to keep these looking good. Seems like I have to do these every season.
Rod
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RobH
You must be the life and soul at a comedy night with your narrow view. It's called satire . You probably think Morecombe and Wise was a news show
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I read an article stating that you could be fined up to £1000 if you are deemed to be inappropriately dressed whilst driving. This covers bulky jackets, and gloves hats.
So where does that leave us with our flying helmets and jackets. I will have to stop driving suppose in the the winter months, Yeh like thas is going to happen.
The world has gone nuts.
Another article stated that you would also be fined if you or your passenger used a mobile phone or satnav.
Rod
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purchase
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Does anyone have a spare Smiths Jaeger temperature gauge that I could get to use as a core for refurb?
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I would check the compressed length as it looks as if the spring might bind up under bonnet weight compression I found that the repro spring needed to be shortened.
Rod
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Hi gents,
Any issues to bare in mind when changing gold colour passivated surface to Silver grey? Was thinking of grey etch primer with silver grey with a coat of lacquer finish.
If any alternative please advise as I don't want to have it flake off.
Rod
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Hi Peter,
Got it eventually, my panel is black and bonded to a black bulkhead/engine bay car.
No screws but speed fastener spring clips found under seam sealer. explains why I
could not find them initially.Perhaps they were missed in the process on a "Friday" car.
Rod
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Hi Gents,
I stand corrected as usual, checked with arc lighting and there does appear to be a hatch but it was not obvious due th4e car being totally black, poor lighting and really, really, really thick paint covering the sealed seams of the hatch.
So a combination of really well sealed gap, really thick paint coating, poor light conditions and failing eyesight it was not obvious.
I certainly would not drill the bulkhead and am tempted to find an alternative way to do it since I
could never get a fluid tight joint and paint damage would be obvious.The car is such an original lhd one. Spent all it's life in the USA.
Rod
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Fairly obvious solution!
Unfortunately the later export cars do not have this hatch.
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Any tips for the removal of the lower of the two bolts on the master cylinder to the bracket. There is no access with either pipe or brake cylinder in position.
It seems obvious but my 1/4 drive extensions are either too long or too short.
I can find any detail in the WSM for that task. It is only one damned bolt into a captive nut.
Perhaps a cut down 1/2" spanner, but hate to butcher spanners.
Any tips, tricks or solutions gratefully rec'd
Rod
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If you are talking about a type that has two tabs and goes through two slots on the cover, these do not normally leak and if they do it's because the seal to the cover isn't great.I am tempted to say that it might be more to do with excessive crankcase pressure.
You could try being creative and seal the hole with JB Weld!!!! This might force a worse leak elsewhere.
Try removing breather and put you palm of your hand to seal cover hole to assess the pressure at the valve train. not sure of the engine you have but you might have a blocked or restrict breather lower down forcing pressure up the the pushrod tubes.
in theory oil should not be pushed out the breather only gases!
Rod
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agreed and I was thinking about just that point. There are cv joint boot repair kits that come special type of super glue to join the edges of the gator. a blob on the needle hole would seal the remaining hole.
definitely a solution to time limited one use ball joints.
there will come a time when greaseable ones are not available and with 4 on the side screen cars it does make sense.
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It is typical that new track rod ends and any driveshafts have no grease nipple fittings. I have found on new out of the box units to have none or very little grease making them stiff on installation and over time premature failure.
I found a strange tip not widely known about the use of a grease needle attachment for your grease gun. It is like a hyperdermic needle or canula needle that you insert through the boot and inject directly round the ball and socket joint ensuring full fill with grease.
The hole closes up as it would in skin letting excess grease equalise.
This system works on any item that has no grease points, track rods, steering boots, sealed bearings, driveshaft gaitor, etc
Top tip £6 as apposed to £50 plus a pair.
Rod
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Obviously the green brigade not so important back then. Note oil staining on inside lane, not so much centre lane and none in fast lane.
Obviously Ford Transits didn't leak at 100 mph.
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OK I need to my steering box.
I cannot safely remove the apron on my own. so I need advice on an alternative method. I have removed bolts and box with lower column are free lo move ,the stator tube, clamps and bolts also removed.
1 remove cross brace?
2 remove lh engine mount.
3 lift engine for clearance
Any advice or tips gratefully received.
Rod
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Hi Phil,
The only problem with that is the danger of catching it with the bonnet as it lifted to set the bonnet prop. Hopefully the spring loading is enough yo hold it shut against the wind resistance and you don't notice the close proximity of one to another.
~~You could try hot water and couple of encylopedia britannia and a g clamp to reduce thickness.
Rod
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If you think that was difficult try now to fit a rubber seal for the vent and get it to fit flush. There seems to be a great variance in quality and thickness.Rod
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Hi Peter,
Many thanks for you information. It would seem that the box needs out regardless of fix. I can not detect any movement on the column up or down. Indicates shims are not the issue and to rotate peg needs a press to remove the steering arm.
I have another unit that has been rebuilt. Will check it
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Hi Peter,
It is definate that it is the box. When adjusted the steering binds up on both locks.
I have nylon type cross shaft bushes.Splines and inter connector are good.
Steering feels vague and the wheel takes up after about 1/8 th of a turn wheels off ground. There is a a lot of sidewall flex to be fair with XAS.
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Unfortunately I have fallen victim to a Craigs list rebuild, One can of satin black rebuild kit.
I bought a rebuilt lhd steering box for my car fitted it and all has been reasonably OK during the limited mileage done since rebuild until now.
I thought the issue was the driving style of Michelin XAS tyres and finding the sweet spot for tyre pressures.
Due to ill health the snagging list is finally getting done.
I seems that I have a square worm drive in the box and it needs replacement soon.
I understand that it is possible to replace the split column box without removing the apron. If ! this is correct any tips from some kind person would be appreciated.
Rod
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I think I have identified the issue. Having checked all else and deglazed drums, shoes, discs and pads. I decided to cook the pads with a blow lamp and during this process on lift off bubbles appeared and then burnt off. Two or three burn and sand resulted in no evidence of contamination.
The car has only done about 3000 miles since returning to the road with all new brake components. I can only think that the pads were stored poorly and became saturated in something. There was no evidence of either oil from a blown seal of brake fluid leakage.
Finally I went over the disc and drums with brake clean, degreaser , sanding pads. and wet dry paper.
I will try this "fix" prior to installing a new set of pads.
Rod
Tr3a Radiator
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Anyone that has had to remove a radiator knows they are difficult.
The lower bolts from below are impossible to get any normal spanner on.
Any tips as I have exhausted my spanners in the tool box.; Size and type
Rod