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Everything posted by iain

  1. That has to be worth checking.
  2. Sorry you misunderstood my 1000's. Note the apostrophy s.
  3. The holes you will make will be 1/2" so of negligible impact on strength Water, if it gets in, can get out the same ways as long as the holes are kept clear.
  4. Sounds to me that you want a fairly standard 2138cc engine. Unless you are intending to do 1000's of miles per annum, the other options are all just that, options on how to spend your money for very little gain. Its worth remembering that TRs were noted for their low down torque and mid range performance, that why most of us don't tweek them too much, because when you do, you lose the inherent features that you liked when you bought the car If you want a smooth torquey engine, my suggestion would be to stick to standard and spend you money on balancing the reciprocating components......it does make a big difference in my experience Iain
  5. Here you go Richard a drawing This is what I will be doing, all holes under the chassis and left open to stop the dreaded condensation 1 hole either side of the front suspension strut 1 Hole where turret brace hits chassis 1 Hole under each body mount tube, this allows a lance to go in either direction. 1 hole just to the rear of each shock absorber mount 1 Hole between the rear chassis tube and the rear spring hanger tube. Of course this needs to be on each side. Iain
  6. Hi Chris , thanks for that, that’s a great reference site, bookmarked some time ago. Just wondered if anyone had templated these pieces as they are pretty basic and don’t justify the cost in my mind. If not it’s out with the card board and scissors! Iain
  7. Has anyone got drawings of the various chassis strengthening pieces?The price charged by the usual suspects for these is a touch ridiculous! Iain
  8. Try Demon Tweeks they have them for delivery in 3 days at a good price, £35 ish plus Vat. Great tyres. Iain
  9. While you are taking the studs out, do check the head studs, especially those at the four corners of the block....I can’t remember which one, but there is one that is notorious for cracking and needs repairing whilst you are in there.
  10. +1 Steff.....it all looks very wrong but with High Tensile Bolt’s all is happy and safe!
  11. Hi John I had exactly the same issue some time ago......H6 carbs for ref. Firstly i suspect the choke mechanism was not returning properly and therefore influenced the idle ( when it shouldn't have been), it was. Having sorted that i had it on a Rolling road. The SM needles could be adjusted to give a reasonable idle on modern fuel, but leaned out higher up the rev range (actually quite dangerously.) Changed to RH needles set on RR. ( there is no other way to do it in my opinion as you can not replicate load). Problem gone, and 3000 miles round the Alps showed absolutely no issues. Iain
  12. Hi Deggers If only they went as well as they look :-) It’s been on the market a little while. Iain
  13. I have a suspicion that Revington have.
  14. I also put James on detention! Too many whiskies one night :-).....him not me, can’t drink the stuff, love it but it hates me. All in jest of course Iain
  15. I had heard something very similar?
  16. Well done Ian, I really must find the time to do similar. It was such a great event .......I note the reference to the FFEV, James and I are still talking! :-) . Iain
  17. iain


    Bondarust primer every time. Been using for nearly 40 years and wouldn’t use anything else on bare clean metal.
  18. I like this one of Annie Soisbault with VHP and her own TR3 just sneaking into the shot.
  19. Here you go its the same as a Moss Kit 807-065_instructions.pdf
  20. Only one problem Steve, the spare on a sidescreen is horizontal in the under boot floor space.....
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