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TomMull

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Everything posted by TomMull

  1. While the exhaust guides are pretty much flush on the inside of the port, the intake comes through at a considerable slope in the port and protrudes more than a quarter inch on one side. Best to use the tops as reference as the TR4 manual indicates, imo. Tom
  2. You are right Ralph, on closer inspection and cleaning of my ancient head, that spring seat does seem to be a machined surface. Tom
  3. Apparently this is not listed in the TR2-3 Factory Service manual but the TR4 manual says "Valve guide protrusion above the top face of the cylinder head - 0.78 in (19.84 mm)." Mine varied from 19.64 to 19.73 mm. I'm not sure what the top face refers to and I measured mine to the surface next to the guide, which is a cast and not a machined surface so it does not seem that they were looking for precision. Tom
  4. Mine protrude just shy of 3/4 inch, measured with a rule. I've always had the machine shop put them in so I trust they have them right. I have not measured them with an accurate instrument but can do if necessary. Tom
  5. Handy tool Des but it looks to me like the block Des has is like mine with the pistons stuck in the liners and the liners stuck in the block. One has push on the rods as they can't be removed with the pistons stuck. Hopefully that's not the case with Des' but if it is it can be done. Tom
  6. It becomes somewhat of a challenge if the crank won't turn. It is then extremely difficult to get at all the big end nuts. Mine also took more than a block of wood and I even failed with an iron pipe with a bronze cap on the business end. A 50 ton press did the trick but broke one of the cylinder liners. The block turned out to be OK. Tom
  7. I carry the original jack but can't remember the last time I used it. Hopefully I'll remember how it goes if I should need it. Virtually all the jacking I do is in or near my garage where I use a low profile floor jack. Tom
  8. I used jute glued to the top of the tunnel with bolts exposed for removal. Also glued jute in the foot wells but no glue on floors. I think that's what it had originally but my car came with rubber mats instead of carpets and nothing underneath. I don't think any of it made a difference. Tom
  9. That used to be a common practice on trucks when I worked for International Harvester many years ago, usually to replace a broken leaf or two. It was a money saver but not necessarily easier bend the tabs, knock out the centerbolt and strip the springs from under the truck. Also the shackles and pins and bushings do wear out. Best to replace the whole spring. Here is a method one fellow used on his TR3: https://triumphtr3b.wordpress.com/2018/12/03/rebuilding-the-rear-suspension-springs-on-a-triumph-tr3/ I've not tried it but it does look promising. Jacking the body is not too h
  10. I leave out the one or two screws which are too difficult to get started every time I remove the tunnel. Soon it will rely on gravity alone. Tom
  11. I can only add a part number, apparently of little value. The yellow note reads: "Piggott mentions an earlier kit, P/N 800898. This may have been the style with the foot-operated pump."
  12. Thanks for the correction Rodbr, I'm no expert as stated, and thanks also for the very interesting accessory diagram. Do I glean fro it that what appear to be wipers (10) were also an "accessory" at the time? Tom
  13. I'm no expert but it looks original to me. Tom
  14. I don't think mine have been messed with so here are a couple of photos. Hope they help. PM with email if you'd like others. Tom
  15. Sorry, Bob. Memory failed me again. Forgot that about all of the British senders of the period were 2 terminal type. Tom
  16. I assume you've checked the earth on the sender. I'd run an extra lead from one of the flange mounting nuts if not. Why the stabilizer, are you using later gauges? You can check the sender by grounding the terminal. The gauge should go to full and stay steady. If it still acts up with the terminal grounded, the fault is probably not in the sender. Tom
  17. Sorry to butt in as mine is a TR3 but I've recently installed a standard mild steel system on it, which incidentally I found hard to source. The Moss mild steel front pipe didn't fit (they graciously refunded my purchase) and I was lucky enough to find a NOS pipe which did. I used the Moss mild steel muffler and an off the shelf glasspack for the rear muffler. I also used the TR4 cruciform hanger which works great. Sound is perfect to my ear and no vibrations or rattles. Tom
  18. I use dollies on my TR3. I've got 5 cars in a 3 car garage most of the time and dollies are the only way to do that. The car sits on dollies pretty much all the time. My dollies are not hydraulic so it's a bit of a pain to jack the car up and down each time I drive it or store it. The advantage of the hydraulic one is that you don't need to find a way to jack the car in tight quarters so I do plan to get one set in the near future. Another advantage is that you can let the car down onto the tires if it will be stored for any lenght of time. Although it helps to have two people, you can mo
  19. Ralph, While I understand why you don't want to disturb the front apron, it seems to me to be a whole lot easier to put the engine and transmission in with the apron off and and as a unit. I admit that I've never tried it with the apron on and have never been tempted to try it. I'll be interested to hear how you make out. Tom
  20. Just past the point of making a survivor/driver, imo, but still nice to have it pretty much intact and unmolested. Tom
  21. As G Denson said above, the gauge will absolutely not go through the hole. I double checked with my spares. Tom
  22. The bulb on my tube was stuck in the housing also. As I recall I removed the housing and thermostat and was able to tap and wiggle the tube out. There is a slight lip on the gauge itself after you remove the bezel and seal. I haven't tried it but it might just fit through the hole without the bezel. The bezel is crimped on and does not unscrew. Best to get the bulb free imo. Tom
  23. Most of the kits do not contain the seal that goes on the shaft that operates the diaphragm but that seal is rarely needed. If you do need it it doubles or triples the cost of the kit and may be hard to find. Last I knew, TRF had the kit with the seal. I've also used the Moss kit without issues but their kit does not have that seal. Tom
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