[float leak]

Try droping the foats in a bowl of boiling water, it there is a pin hole you should see a steam of bubbles coming out of it.  I had one that did this and was able to repair it with a little soft solder.

You may also have a sticking float valve, so take those out and give them a good clean, or replace them.  They can be a bit of a pain!

Best regards,

Tony

[Gear stick moving in 3rd]

Yes, thank you AndyR100 for your original post.

One thing I forgot to say was that I used two layers of electrical heat shrink tubing to take up the gap as I did not have a bit of silicone tube the right size.  This seemed to have done the trick and was quite neat.

Tony

[Gear stick moving in 3rd]

Well, I have just taken the car out for a drive with the gearbox tunnel removed, What fun that was watching the road zip past, with the prop shaft buzzing around by side and the heat of the exhaust wafting up against my legs.  It felt like a big go-cart!

So what did I learn from this, apart from it being fun?

 

First off the movement on the gear stick dose seem to come from the selector mechanism, though it must be amplified a lot by the length of the gearstick since the movement at the bottom of the rod is quite small.  My conclusion is that this is probably nothing much to worry about at the moment, and is probably due to the backlash in the gear train I observed yesterday, perhaps also a bit more float on the gears/bush that is ideal, but that is very hard to say without taking the box out and measuring it all.

 

Secondly, I tried out Haralds tip about bushing the bottom of the gear stick, there was definitely some excess clearance between the stick and the cup that the spring seats in.  This worked a treat, and has reduced the movement and eliminated the annoying click from the stick.  So thank you for a top tip!

 

I think that I have probably spent too much time driving modern German cars recently, and have forgotten that this is 50+ year old technology, that is a bit worn and has its own personality, so I am going to refit the covers and leave it be for now.

 

Thanks to all for your help and suggestions.

 

Tony

 

[Gear stick moving in 3rd]

Thanks Harold,

That is an interesting idea, I will give it a try when I put the top cover back on.

Since my last post, I have managed to recreate a bit of movement through the top cover.  I needed to clamp it a bit tighter in the vice and waggle a bit harder, and the stick did move in a similar way to when it drives.

Though I find it a bit hard to see how this would come back up from the gearbox through the selector yoke and then into the leaver based on the amount of float there is in the gear synchro?

Maybe I am worrying about this a bit too much, but after the devastation the counter shaft failure caused last time, and the amount of expensive parts required to rebuilt it, I am a bit risk averse!

 

[Gear stick moving in 3rd]

Hi Roger,

 

Yes, the ball and spring are in place at the bottom of the gearstick and seem to be working fine.  It takes up all the slack in the stick as it should.

 

I have also tried to re-create the movement of the stick by holding the gearbox top cover upside down in the vice and trying to waggle the selector yoke back and forth, and nothing much happens, so I am a bit baffled at the moment.

Maybe it’s something to do with the gearbox mountings causing movement, that is why I was thinking of driving it with the tunnel off, so I can see if anything odd is going on.  That will have to wait for the rain to stop though J

 

Tony

[1969 TR6 PI Choke cable]

Hi Andy,

I managed to repair mine earlier this year using a bicycle brake cable from Halfords. 

I cut the two cables off of the base of the choke mechanism and then drilled out the solder plug in the side, then drilled down the length of the rod to remove the remaining debris.  All was done with a battery drill just holding the choke knob in a vice.  Just require a bit of eyeballing to keep it straight.

 

I chose to tin the ends of the cable with solder first. (You need to first wash them with methylated spirit and then use flux before soldering) and then inserted them into the cleared hole.

Once they were in place I added a little more solder to the assembly to fill the side hole.

For belt and braces I also squeezed the finished end in the vice to make sure it had griped the cables.  This dents it a bit, so you will need to tidy it with a file to ensure it slides in and out the sleeve properly.

 

So far mine has been good for six months and only cost me about £5.00

 

This is the link that gave me the inspiration to try:

https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr6-tech-forum.2/double-choke-cable-repair.1369685/

Best of luck,

 

Tony

[Gear stick moving in 3rd]

Update on gearbox investigation:

 

I have now removed the gearbox top cover and not found very much in the way of a smoking gun.

The selector mechanism appears to be all nice and tight.  Wedge lock screws are tight, and selector forks seem to be held firmly in place.  The ball detents also seem to be strong and firm and hold the selectors in place with a nice firm click.

 

Looking inside the box, there is no apparent debris.  The gears look clean an bright just as they were when they went back last year.

 

Pulling and prodding the 2nd and 3rd gear cluster only results in a small amount of end float, so I don’t think the top hat bush has broken?  (10 thou ish)

 

The only thing that seems a bit off, is the amount of back lash in the third gear train when it is engaged.  I can detect a bit more slack when turning the prop shaft compared to the other gears.  I would say this was about a degree or two when looking at the prop shaft.

This does not seem to transfer back into the synchro selector with the cover off though.  I guess this could be a bit different with the top cover bolted back down and the selector butted against it though?

 

Does anyone have any other suggestions on what I could check before I put the top cover back on?

 

I was thinking of a test drive with the gear box exposed next to see if I can see any other movement in the mechanism.

 

Thanks,

 

Tony

[Gear stick moving in 3rd]

Gents,

 

Thank you for your replies;  I think I will take your advice and remove the gear box top cover and check out the selector mechanism.  This part of the box did not get any significant work done to it when it was repaired apart from a new inhibitor switch and bit of a clean-up.

So far there has been no occurrences of it jumping out of gear, and I have not noticed any movement in 4th gear.  I would hope it’s not the top hat bush that has broken as this was replaced with one of the uprated steel one piece units, similarly a new circlip was fitted to the shaft to hold things in place.

However nothing would surprise me with this gearbox!

I will let you know what I find.

Thanks again,

Tony

 

[Gear stick moving in 3rd]

The last few times I have taken my TR out for a drive, I have noticed some movement of the gear stick back and forwards whilst in third gear.  It’s not that much, but enough to give a bit of a click.

It usually happens when I let the power off; this is when the gear stick moves backwards a little, it usually moves forward again when I re apply the power.  Any idea what the cause of this could be?

 

As a bit of background, the box was rebuilt just over a year ago, following the collapse of the counter shaft bearings.  The Counter shaft, Laygear and constant gear were replaced along with main bearings etc.

Since I have noticed the problem with the box, I have drained the oil to check for any debris, and was relived to find not obvious metallic parts, other than the usual brassy tinge you typically find in the oil.

 

I can’t detect any noise from the box over the sound of the exhausts, and there doesn’t appear to be any vibration through the stick.

 

I would appreciate any advice on what could be causing the problem and if I should be concerned about it or not?

 

Thanks,

 

Tony

 

[J type overdrive planet carrier "Tin hat"]

Gents,

Thank you for the above replies,  I have done a bit more digging on the internet this morning, and found out the part is an oil catcher.  Once I found its proper name, I managed to find a bit more information about it.

This Volvo web site shows the part on its exploded view.  (Strange its not shown on the TR one?) 

Its part No 19.

http://www.volvoamazon.com/Onderdelen-onderhoud/Amazon_p24_34_FINAL_040614.pdf

And this web site describs what it is for in some more detail.

http://www.fuelprice.com.au/trpage1.html

Fortunately I took mine off with a bit more care, and hope to be able to recover it with a bit of carful tin bashing.  After that I will have a go at rolling the material back into the slot on the lathe and see if it looks tight enough.

I was wondering if these parts became optional or obsolete at some point, and perhaps that is why we don't see them on the TR parts diagrams?

Regards,

Tony

 

 

 

[J type overdrive planet carrier "Tin hat"]

Hello,

I am in the process of cleaning and overhauling my J type over drive, it was basically contaminated with swarf following a counter shaft bearing failure.  Clean up has gone well so far, and the majority of the parts look in good shape. 

The needle roller bearings in the planet gear carrier need to be removed for cleaning, to get to these, I had to remove a "Tin hat" from the carrier, this was rather tight to get off as it was peened into a slot around the circumference of the carrier unit.  After prising it off it is now a bit of a loose fit on the carrier.  I haven’t been able to see a spare one of these for sale in the usual places, so I was wondering what other folk usually do with this to get it back in place and fitting snuggly again?  (It purpose seems to be to prevent the dowels holding the planet gear spindles in place from coming out)

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Tony

[Jumping out of 3rd gear]

Thanks for all of your replies. It sounds like “out the top” is the way forward.

I have the seats and the tunnel out now and can see there is plenty of room to work.

 

I am interested in any more comments about the possible cause of the problem. I have been reading up about the ball detents as a possible cause. Has anyone else come across this one?

 

Thanks for the tip about the new boot, However I am still attached to my old boot.....

 

Cheers

 

Tony

[Jumping out of 3rd gear]

I have been having problems with my gearbox over the summer with it jumping out of 3rd gear. It is usually, but not exclusively when I accelerate. I have also had the odd problem with it changing down to 2nd. (stiff /reluctant to go in)

Can anyone advise what the likely cause is?

(This is a CR series car, with a overdrive box)

 

I am planning on taking the box out over the winter to investigate. Is it best to lift the box out from inside the car, or drop it out of the bottom. Both seem to be feasible?

 

Thanks

Tony