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Tony S

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Everything posted by Tony S

  1. Yes, thank you AndyR100 for your original post. One thing I forgot to say was that I used two layers of electrical heat shrink tubing to take up the gap as I did not have a bit of silicone tube the right size. This seemed to have done the trick and was quite neat. Tony
  2. Well, I have just taken the car out for a drive with the gearbox tunnel removed, What fun that was watching the road zip past, with the prop shaft buzzing around by side and the heat of the exhaust wafting up against my legs. It felt like a big go-cart! So what did I learn from this, apart from it being fun? First off the movement on the gear stick dose seem to come from the selector mechanism, though it must be amplified a lot by the length of the gearstick since the movement at the bottom of the rod is quite small. My conclusion is that this is probably nothing much to wor
  3. Thanks Harold, That is an interesting idea, I will give it a try when I put the top cover back on. Since my last post, I have managed to recreate a bit of movement through the top cover. I needed to clamp it a bit tighter in the vice and waggle a bit harder, and the stick did move in a similar way to when it drives. Though I find it a bit hard to see how this would come back up from the gearbox through the selector yoke and then into the leaver based on the amount of float there is in the gear synchro? Maybe I am worrying about this a bit too much, but after the devastatio
  4. Hi Roger, Yes, the ball and spring are in place at the bottom of the gearstick and seem to be working fine. It takes up all the slack in the stick as it should. I have also tried to re-create the movement of the stick by holding the gearbox top cover upside down in the vice and trying to waggle the selector yoke back and forth, and nothing much happens, so I am a bit baffled at the moment. Maybe it’s something to do with the gearbox mountings causing movement, that is why I was thinking of driving it with the tunnel off, so I can see if anything odd is going on.
  5. Hi Andy, I managed to repair mine earlier this year using a bicycle brake cable from Halfords. I cut the two cables off of the base of the choke mechanism and then drilled out the solder plug in the side, then drilled down the length of the rod to remove the remaining debris. All was done with a battery drill just holding the choke knob in a vice. Just require a bit of eyeballing to keep it straight. I chose to tin the ends of the cable with solder first. (You need to first wash them with methylated spirit and then use flux before soldering) and then inserted them into
  6. Update on gearbox investigation: I have now removed the gearbox top cover and not found very much in the way of a smoking gun. The selector mechanism appears to be all nice and tight. Wedge lock screws are tight, and selector forks seem to be held firmly in place. The ball detents also seem to be strong and firm and hold the selectors in place with a nice firm click. Looking inside the box, there is no apparent debris. The gears look clean an bright just as they were when they went back last year. Pulling and prodding the 2nd and 3rd gear cluster onl
  7. Gents, Thank you for your replies; I think I will take your advice and remove the gear box top cover and check out the selector mechanism. This part of the box did not get any significant work done to it when it was repaired apart from a new inhibitor switch and bit of a clean-up. So far there has been no occurrences of it jumping out of gear, and I have not noticed any movement in 4th gear. I would hope it’s not the top hat bush that has broken as this was replaced with one of the uprated steel one piece units, similarly a new circlip was fitted to the shaft to hold things
  8. The last few times I have taken my TR out for a drive, I have noticed some movement of the gear stick back and forwards whilst in third gear. It’s not that much, but enough to give a bit of a click. It usually happens when I let the power off; this is when the gear stick moves backwards a little, it usually moves forward again when I re apply the power. Any idea what the cause of this could be? As a bit of background, the box was rebuilt just over a year ago, following the collapse of the counter shaft bearings. The Counter shaft, Laygear and constant gear were replaced alo
  9. Gents, Thank you for the above replies, I have done a bit more digging on the internet this morning, and found out the part is an oil catcher. Once I found its proper name, I managed to find a bit more information about it. This Volvo web site shows the part on its exploded view. (Strange its not shown on the TR one?) Its part No 19. http://www.volvoamazon.com/Onderdelen-onderhoud/Amazon_p24_34_FINAL_040614.pdf And this web site describs what it is for in some more detail. http://www.fuelprice.com.au/trpage1.html Fortunately I took mine off with a bit mor
  10. Hello, I am in the process of cleaning and overhauling my J type over drive, it was basically contaminated with swarf following a counter shaft bearing failure. Clean up has gone well so far, and the majority of the parts look in good shape. The needle roller bearings in the planet gear carrier need to be removed for cleaning, to get to these, I had to remove a "Tin hat" from the carrier, this was rather tight to get off as it was peened into a slot around the circumference of the carrier unit. After prising it off it is now a bit of a loose fit on the carrier. I haven’t been abl
  11. Thanks for all of your replies. It sounds like “out the top” is the way forward. I have the seats and the tunnel out now and can see there is plenty of room to work. I am interested in any more comments about the possible cause of the problem. I have been reading up about the ball detents as a possible cause. Has anyone else come across this one? Thanks for the tip about the new boot, However I am still attached to my old boot..... Cheers Tony
  12. I have been having problems with my gearbox over the summer with it jumping out of 3rd gear. It is usually, but not exclusively when I accelerate. I have also had the odd problem with it changing down to 2nd. (stiff /reluctant to go in) Can anyone advise what the likely cause is? (This is a CR series car, with a overdrive box) I am planning on taking the box out over the winter to investigate. Is it best to lift the box out from inside the car, or drop it out of the bottom. Both seem to be feasible? Thanks Tony
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