BlueTR3A-5EKT

Very smart. The only other thing I would consider if the car does not have one is an emergency bonnet release system. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181728713822

No need to dismantle the hydraulics or cables to the brakes. Brakes can stay in place.

I use a Lidl all purpose’s cleaner trigger spray bottle filled with soluble oil(suds) in the workshop. They last for about 3 months then the pump fails. By which time another has been used in the house. And so the cycle restarts. I tried them with brake cleaner and they fail in about 10 days.

That’s the one I have. Garden centre sell similar for about a tenner.

No the flange must be removed from the axle shaft

Buy yourself a gallon of brake cleaner and a pump up aerosol Like a bug or rose spray from the garden centre

Hi Dean and welcome. I guess you are aware of this article. https://macysgarage.com/engine rb.htm and this one http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm

Trusting you are running your car negative earth if you have a regular type of cigarette lighter power socket, or the accessory you plug in will fry. Friend managed to wreck his sat nav in his Dart by doing just that. Found the Amazon one £3.00 cheaper with postage included. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156012265030?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111451%26meid%3D6d4d3def856e4151a33046d7f8f943cc%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D403045476698%26itm%3D156012265030%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5P

And we struggled to sell new hardtop shells in primers with headlining for £75.00. We also had fully finished in body colour and glazing with fitting kits that sold for £250. Get in your TARDIS and pop back to 1988.

Plus one.

It will be reshaped on the lathe. Balancing after that will be minimal or even unnecessary

Which is why you do not have dampers that are very firm. You can end up with ‘jack down’ where the suspension is compressed but the spring is not strong enough to extend against a very firm damper.

My delight when driving in Wales came when driving on the motorway……at 50 mph. Both lanes blocked by traffic doing 49 to 51 mph. The police car with siren and lights was refused progress along the road by all traffic. Not a single vehicle moved to allow it to pass. It resorted to weaving onto the hard shoulder to get further down to the road faster than the traffic. Good to see the emergency services are not hindered by the territorial governments speed policy. Similar deal in London. If you are sat at a red traffic light and an emergency services vehicle on a shout com

My brother has kindly welded up the loose shaft and timing weight plate in a DM2 distributor. It was loose and moving axially plus radially by about 15 degrees. New ones are around but the welding is a nice workshop solution. Originals are crimped together. If this fails it is off to DD. Next job is machine the excess weld off to get the weights to fit ok. That’ll fix the points and timing scatter the old distributor had….that being the best part of 15 degrees of slop. Made timing the engine as good as impossible as the advance and retard randomly changed when driving.

This has been covered before. I still have a couple of car sets of original Triumph NOS top inner wishbone rubber bushes. There are 8 on a car. As discussed before.

A bit like…..Oil or grease in your trunions? Personal choice based on specialist biased fictional fact

How are you connecting the wiring loom to the motor? The loom wires at the motor terminate in bullet connections. The single speed motor has Lucar blade connections. Here’s a trick. Remove the motor from its installation and isolate it electrically. Remove the rack so you have the motor and gearbox in your hand. . Puta towel under it so it cannot short out to the car body. IE no earth connections anywhere. Disconnect the motor from the loom and its earth wire and run two wires with Lucar connectors on them to your wiper motor. Connect them to the wiper motor Lucar termi

My research did not find any available in the UK either. Hence no response. There seems to be mild steel available in UK. Alternative is T7 Designs billet aluminium that the would need a bit of fiddling to install https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/heater-connector-on-bulkhead-3. You could ring them and ask if they do a stainless one. https://www.t7design.co.uk/13-13mm-1-2-1-2-bulkhead-hose-adapter-narrow-c55-8d1-cc6.html

As you are in Oz Go and get one of these and fit it. https://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/479/thermostats-and-gaskets/528046/thermostat-high-flow The 82 degree one I have in my car works just right.

If the shocks are oily externally they are leaking and need repairing. This is probably a failure on MOT tests. To get you home you can just top them up but they will still need repairing. Yes topping up is done on the car. Thoroughly clean the shocker of all dirt, mud and other road debris before attempting to remove the filler plug. Turn the plug half a turn to undo and clean again before removing the plug fully. No dirt must get in the shock absorber. Use a clean syringe or appropriate spout to top up to level. Refit plug.

Mine is on the LH inner front wing opposite the distributor/engine mounted coil.

Bit like the Spanish registered TR7 booked into our workshop once for a full service…..with a Ford engine and gearbox fitted. The mechanic working on the car noticed the points would not fit.

The question is whether the fork end is wide enough to ensure the push rod operates in a direct axis with the cylinder piston. I know on my car I had Glen at Protek widen the fork ends to ensure the push rod were on axis with the pistons.

Sealing front and rear of crank case involving shim steel sheet, odd shaped punch, bits of cork and felt, tube of Well-Seal.

This is a PPS file. It may not load. Works fine on my ancient iMac with MS Office. Motorrad_Oldies_1_-_DF6JL_ lv.pps