BlueTR3A-5EKT

Point 1. When you changed the oil filter did you part fill the filter bowl with oil, or as full as you dare so it did not dribble down your hands as you refitted the bowl.? You have rechecked the oil level and the 1/2 litre drop is probably the content of the oil filter bowl. Point 2. Did you crank it with the plugs out and the coil wire disconnected to see the oil pressure rise? I do that sitting in the car. When the oil pressure comes up go and look under the car for obvious oil leaks and feel for excessive oil around the oil filter, before fitting plugs, reconnecting coil and p

The A2 stainless screws I sourced are 1/2" unf 3/4" long thread - and they are too long. I did think I would put a pile of washers under the screw head but decided that was a bodge too far, as in the future if I forgot to refit the washers I'd be in the effluent. I have reduced them on the lathe to 7/16" thread length. Without the sealing washer they screw in by finger force to full depth in my cylinder block, which has had the thread cleaned up. I use a copper crush washer under the head. What I bought https://www.kayfast.co.uk/view-product/UNF-Hexagon-Set-Screws-A2-Stainless-St

Now there is a wealth of information. Thanks for posting.

The brackets changed with spring type and other specification changes during TR6. The final spring offered was 216275. (350lb). And according to Triumph, should be used with 3 notch inner bracket and one notch outer.

Will measure the depth tomorrow Here is the water drain hole thread being cleared. What it was like before cleaning. The drain hole is visible...just

If the glass is rattling I’d think the chrome bezel is less than tight on the glass. It may be corroded to the gauge case but a spot of easing oil will probably remedy that and allow the bezel to twist.

This kit will take a lot of the hassle out of doing the rear suspension angles. As stated above swapping springs away from original standard is an immediate cause of camber change. As is worn springs. Swap the left rear to the right rear and see if the angle difference moves with it. https://www.goodparts.com/product/trailing-arm-bracket-kit-adjustable/

Phil, when you come to refit the sump screws do not forget that the one at the front in the middle screws into the aluminium front main bearing sealer block. The trick is the retap the hole as deep as you can with 5/16 unc as original and fit a stud, that screws to full thread depth. Secure with Loctite. Makes for a good alignment of the sump when you come to fit it too. Secure the sump to the stud with washers and appropriate plain nut. Loosely fitting another stud at the rear corner will help with alignment also If under the car, once the sump and gasket are located on the stu

Remove the gauge Undo the TWO thumb nuts that hold the support/lock bar into place. Seen in your second photo is one of the nuts with an earth wire attached. You will need to refit an earth wire or the lights in the gauge do not work undo the drive cable that is attached at the gauge. pull the gauge towards you , prise out the illumination wire/bulb holders. Now you can try to rotate the bezel to get the offending bit of rubber out or reseated or renewed. Damn fiddly is the best description.

Glad to read of a successful outcome.

Thanks for the update

I think ….The original clutch flex for TR4A was a bit of plastic tube with a steel fitting at each end, like the really moderns have (5~250~6)

There is a rubber plug to go in the hole of a brake drum that the adjustment of the brakes is done through using a screwdriver. Part no. 2A7228 It might fit. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/plug-brake-drum-round-rubber-2a7228.html?assoc=506488

I’ve seen that bell housing bore hole before on a Stag. It was for a grease gun end to go through to grease the clutch release bearing carrier.

The cylinder block thread for the water drain is unf. I just had to clean out the thread in a block. Hence my use of a stainless screw to seal instead of the more than unreliable repro drain taps. I have a spare if you are after one as I had to buy 5.

You have probably got a closed circuit breather as it is a 4A, so there is no external snorkel pipe. The internal central tube on the rear main bearing cap is oil drain back to the sump Don’t mess with it. Tge snorkel, if fitted goes in the hole circled. Poke your finger in that hole. If it meets a dead end about half an inch in your breather hole is plugged for closed circuit breathing and the snorkel is not fitted. The internal central tube on the rear main bearing cap is oil drain back to the sump from the scroll seal. Don’t mess with it or block it. And yes

Nor does my stainless steel plug/bolt

You will need two longer bolts. If you have a crank case snorkel vent pipe as well as the clutch slave stay rod to attach.

Lucas type 584 https://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/accessories/at103l.htm The bright finish Lucas 608 from the early to mid 60’s is available as a repro. As used in Jag and rally Minis https://www.martinrobey.com/jaguar/e-type/e-type-series-1-4-2/body/body-fittings-fixed-head-coupe/interior-panels-and-seats/21522 Hold onto your hat if you fancy buying a 584. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266633725083?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-153316-527457-8&mkcid=2&itemid=266633725083&targetid=4585513251572429&device=t&mktype=&googlel

Racetorations do the windscreen stay you are mentioning https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/windscreen-top-rail-brace-tr2-3a/

Certainly all the original Triumph Spares steering racks I have sold were painted black. Cannot answer for what was on the car from new.

Thread drift. Let us not forget there is a later fitment rear view mirror in the sidescreen cars(609317) that has a plastic edging not the original early type (601999) with the bare edged glass. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/mirror-rear-view-late-609317.html?assoc=113498 The later mirror is offset mounted on the back. If you want it lower or taller, just rotate the mirror bit on its mount by 180 degrees. There is noise about the stem length but rotating the head on the stem improves.

Fixed mine with JB Weld Water Weld epoxy putty. Did it with the radiator in the car Just dropped the water level cleaned the area mixed up the stuff and spread it on. Not pretty but functional. I now carry a stick in the car boot spares ‘just in case’ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326061917575?itmmeta=01HTNGP1ARZ6ZP59VKD3FNSSFS&hash=item4beace0587:g:bSwAAOSw--Rl~Ept&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8MA0hao9dHipeyuC99FY4%2Fg6yEE96QtuWVq1qrRn3uWUlOy6csp1h3P4nQzEgv0qoQMGrvrKlFNrIEO0Okvc76k%2Bjkb%2B4uoT6vr5B1%2BVYg1dyEwLUVYkPhSO81rdP8lnSVsvDQpRjziDdU12MTEw4tfhhPuF6dSyfYoWVzKXEqKdvB2fSRd

Be careful. Lucas 743176 = BMC 17H5431 is the correct kit with studs to mount a TR3-5 wiper motor. Plus classic Mini and Morris Minor. and many more. Rimmers and MGOC spares offer the rubber only as 17H5431X I do not know if that is a kit of 3 or just a single. There is another kit that uses 4. shorter studs and thinner rubber bushes that holds a Lucas 6W motor in place. This kit is not correct for a TR. The studs screw into the side of the motor not the gearbox. This motor was used on Ford GT40, RR Shadow, Aston DB, Land Crab and Triumph Barb models 2000 mk1. They pop up

What colour is the coolant now? It changes colour if combustion gasses are present. Red to yellow, reverts back once combustion gasses are gone. Was ALL the previous coolant, radiator and block, purged from the engine? Evans Coolant Co sell a clean and purge liquid they say must be used before filling with their product. If you read their spec. they say do not mix with anything. Maybe it causes the foaming. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5aa8e520b98a7807c92a15f1/t/5ab4e7d7575d1f48a5be11ae/1521805273092/FORLIFE+PDS.pdf