BlueTR3A-5EKT

A bit like…..Oil or grease in your trunions? Personal choice based on specialist biased fictional fact

How are you connecting the wiring loom to the motor? The loom wires at the motor terminate in bullet connections. The single speed motor has Lucar blade connections. Here’s a trick. Remove the motor from its installation and isolate it electrically. Remove the rack so you have the motor and gearbox in your hand. . Puta towel under it so it cannot short out to the car body. IE no earth connections anywhere. Disconnect the motor from the loom and its earth wire and run two wires with Lucar connectors on them to your wiper motor. Connect them to the wiper motor Lucar termi

My research did not find any available in the UK either. Hence no response. There seems to be mild steel available in UK. Alternative is T7 Designs billet aluminium that the would need a bit of fiddling to install https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/heater-connector-on-bulkhead-3. You could ring them and ask if they do a stainless one. https://www.t7design.co.uk/13-13mm-1-2-1-2-bulkhead-hose-adapter-narrow-c55-8d1-cc6.html

As you are in Oz Go and get one of these and fit it. https://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/479/thermostats-and-gaskets/528046/thermostat-high-flow The 82 degree one I have in my car works just right.

If the shocks are oily externally they are leaking and need repairing. This is probably a failure on MOT tests. To get you home you can just top them up but they will still need repairing. Yes topping up is done on the car. Thoroughly clean the shocker of all dirt, mud and other road debris before attempting to remove the filler plug. Turn the plug half a turn to undo and clean again before removing the plug fully. No dirt must get in the shock absorber. Use a clean syringe or appropriate spout to top up to level. Refit plug.

Mine is on the LH inner front wing opposite the distributor/engine mounted coil.

Bit like the Spanish registered TR7 booked into our workshop once for a full service…..with a Ford engine and gearbox fitted. The mechanic working on the car noticed the points would not fit.

The question is whether the fork end is wide enough to ensure the push rod operates in a direct axis with the cylinder piston. I know on my car I had Glen at Protek widen the fork ends to ensure the push rod were on axis with the pistons.

Sealing front and rear of crank case involving shim steel sheet, odd shaped punch, bits of cork and felt, tube of Well-Seal.

This is a PPS file. It may not load. Works fine on my ancient iMac with MS Office. Motorrad_Oldies_1_-_DF6JL_ lv.pps

Does your engine currently have the snorkel type breather pipe fitted in the side of the block? If not be prepared for a bit of a game in removing the core plug that is in the hole that you want to place the breather in.

Off the shelf. Is this ready made adjustable one any use? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133581638897?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20231016072133%26meid%3D8ea459227d6d4ed9ad3160102ade03a8%26pid%3D101878%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D25%26sd%3D133581638185%26itm%3D133581638897%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4536401%26algv%3DPromotedCompV5WithHighAdFeeWithKnnRecallV1PostRankerMode1PBoosterV3a%26fpg%3D0&_trksid=p4536401.c101878.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A1335816388978ea459227d6d4ed9ad3160102ade03a8|enc%3AAQAJAAABICDPpW%2B6jo56SpbdyywYaBqD%2Bi3VZzH5U

You say the clip is useless. I suspect you are struggling with repro arms as the genuine l(Lucas?) ones I have feature a good spring clip that retains the arm to the wheel box once the clip engages in the unsplined part of the wheel box stem. We used to get Tex arms that had a screw fitting that when tightened moved a crescent shaped lock into the unsplined groove. Those arms could only be removed if the screw was loosened. This could become a ‘show and tell’ article if I go digging in the garage. One thing I do recall is that the collet fit arms on TR2/A30 etc were continuall

No 10 unf with 32 tpi. AKA. 10-32 UNF

Just one addition to the assessment tests. Check there is end float on the armature in the casing. You should be able to move the armature axially by a small amount (upto 1mm or 0.040”). This is adjusted by a screw and lock nut on some motors and by a screw only on others. If in doubt slacken it half a turn and recheck. If it is tight the armature will not rotate easily if at all. I test by shaking the motor. You can hear the armature moving and being stopped by the limit screw.

How about photographing the thing you want to use crop to size and inserting that?

Have you bought a TARDIS Hoges and gone back to being a teenager? WTF are they supposed to signify? I just spotted the smiley face at the top rh of the options bar. I have also pressed all the other symbols and cannot work out what some of them actually do. Is this an age thing?

The alternator looks like a Lucas ACR type. As Rob has said use a bulb and wire for simple continuity test. The ohmmeter is probably too sensitive Get one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256441484251?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D260662%26meid%3D84c8720c0db54f43ad0164c32a06c2ee%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D192846063407%26itm%3D256441484251%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V4WithDefaultIMAFeature&_trksid=p4429486.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A25644148425184c8720c0db

Remove the motor from the mounting bracket, remove the drive rack. Turn the motor over and remove the C clip holding the driven gear into the gearbox housing. Lift out the gear. Try to rotate the worm drive of the armature end with your fingers. Not easy but it should rotate. Apply power to the two terminals, plus have the earth connected if you want. The motor should work. If not loosen 1/2 turn each the slotted screws on the brush end cover. Re apply power. Still no go? Take the cover off that is over the brushes by undoing the two slotted screws completely . Smell

That wiring diagram in the big red book is not completely correct for your car Richard. The notable problem is that there are only two wires going to the wiper motor. That is a non self parking wiper motor as used on TR2-3. You have a self parking wiper motor with 3 wires. The wiring diagram for your car can be found in the glove box sized booklet Handy Hints. Aka drivers hand book. online here. http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf

No Adwest Engineering at Woolley, Did use Dowty for a few items but they had a greedy tooling ownership policy, that RR got really caught out by.

Take your pick! https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=advancedautomotives&store_cat=0&store_name=advancedautoperformanceparts&_oac=1&_nkw=tap

Could be rubbish wiper arms of course…….Roger has had this problem I think and proposed pink ribbon to tie the things on. I went for stainless steel wire locking. A more engineering based solution.

That is correct about the tooling BMH used. A lot of parts were genuine old stock from Leyland, that no tooling existed for when the project was started, other parts were Cox & Buckles kirksite form tools run through a big rubber press, that press is now scrap, plus C&B drop hammer tooling, that was retooled. Heritage Pressings supplied a vast amount of odd brackets and fittings ( wiring loom tags, L brackets for trim boards etc) for the TR 6 shell. They closed down when BMH was homologated into one factory at Witney. By that time they were in discussion with SteelCraft. B

That looks like an A type overdrive for a TR and should fit your 1970 CC chassis without modifications. You will need the electrical circuit, a control switch relay and cables. It looks like the isolator switched on the gearbox remote are present. Check it has a switch for the reversing lights. As Harry says get it looked at before installing. Could be tears if you get it installed only to find the lay gear bearings have worn through.