BlueTR3A-5EKT

Yes lowered fuel level to stop frothing and overflowing, is what I was told years ago by the man operating the rolling road in Mitcham. They had a dyno with a red line at 300 BHP so there was not going to be an issue for my friends TR2 on Webers.

I sold a lot of my other DC4 engine (P&W Wasp etc) tools to a man who restores ‘war birds’ He was more than chuffed at being able to get the unique tools for certain engine repair tasks. Bit like finding an old Triumph dealer with a cupboard full of Churchill tools.

Agreed also. I found benefit in leaving the axle in the car when using the tool. You then have the axle shaft supported. Ohh and take the washer out from under the nut or you do not know the taper has separated. Fitting a short length of the correct diameter steel rod in the split pin hole or the force on the end of the shaft wilt deform it.

Please could you post the dimensions you used so those that come later will benefit?

I've got one like that for fitting piston engine cylinders on a DC4 engine.

Excellent solution for fitting worn drums to new shoes if you have access to the machinery and measuring tool. I have measured the new original shoes I have. The 9" x 1.75" (rear ones) have 4.8 mm of friction material The 10" x 2.25" (front ones) have 4.7 mm of friction material. So...Your 5 mm suggestion is not a long way off. Where are you Max and who would you buy your spares from normally?

Is this a view of the taper collar from the other side of the car against the other drive flange hub and taper collar? The drive flange hub has the taper collar fitted in it and needs removing before you refit the drive flange hub. The splined collar or collet is designed to grip the half shaft spline as the axle nut is tightened. Note that the torque setting for that nut increased when a later type of nut was fitted.

...and the extra peg gets close to or touches the sidescreen?

Is this car a TR4 with a rigid axle or a TR4A with wobbly rear axle? If the latter Roger has stated correctly above. if TR4 then a couple of issues pop up. 1. when did the grease nipple behind the axle hub flange get pumped full of grease? Might just have been over lubricated. 2. The end float of the axle shafts needs checking and correcting. Jack up both sides and push/pull one side. The movement in total should be 0.004-0.006 inch That’s a couple of hair’s thickness, so not felt by hand. 3. The outer hub seal needs renewing - not a simple task as the drive fla

Terri Ann’s info is in the link http://www.tr3a.info/WeberDCOEinfo.htm What we do know is TR engines need the float set lower than the super smooth moderns like Ford et al as they do shake about causing frothing etc.

Your car is a TR3A. You seem to have a hood stick cover with the longer ears that goes on TR2 and 3. Skinner do make the right one for your car. Here is a photo from their web page

No. You will need to show them your brake drums and give them the original diameter. 10 inches front and rear. Or could be 10 inches front and 9” rear, depending on year. If they make them too thick you may not get the brake drums back on! I have an unused new brake shoe somewhere. Are you in a rush? Could take me a day or two if I can actually find it. That will give the correct original thickness. The re lining company probably have material that is up to 10 mm thick and will stick that on then machine the shoe assemblies to the correct diameter for the drums. You mu

In “the street of a thousand spokers” https://wheelsindia.com/manufacturing-locations/

Regarding ‘substance’. This is described as lining or friction material, Is it attached by rivets? In which case the rivets must be below the surface of the friction material by 1-2 mm if you are refitting. If it is a bonded or glued type lining then 2-3 mm minimum. You will hear and experience it if the lining has worn through. The brake shoe metal part can be re-lined if you cannot find new. https://custombrakes.co.uk/services/vintage-and-classic-cars/

Knew I had seen a TR7 wiper motor rebuild. Here it is if it helps. Mentions with photos the park switch. https://oldtonewrestorations.com/triumph-tr7-restoration-repairing-refitting-the-wiper-system/ Fun Fact…. The very first TR7 I drove was on the first TR Register John O Groats to Land Ends run in 1975. The wiper motor of that brand new car failed on the M5 not far from Exeter in the pouring rain, so we requested a new one at the main dealer, Mumfords. They had no motor nor mechanics available but jokingly said they had a new car in the show room, and If you want

Am I digging in the garage for one for you or are you sorted? STARTER NOW SOLD. Update.. I have a starter motor. It is a new/rebuilt Lucas 2M100 type motor rather than the M418G type. This is only relevant if you are buying internal bits for it. This type is used on more recent Land Rover vehicles, so is quite sturdy. It has fitted a used TR3A/4 10 tooth bendix gear. It runs perfectly off load, but probably needs the end plate taking off and a drop of oil in the bearings, as it has sat on my shelf for ten odd years. Yours outright for £45. 00 plus whatever the p

I have used Pitch Book to research who else is in the Radial portfolio. https://pitchbook.com/profiles/investor/431692-84#faqs It looks like a many armed/layered company. What that means ultimately is not something I know about. There is Radial Equity 1 the fund and Radial Equity Partners the investor. Both at the same address. Their financial association is with New value capital and Irving place capital. Bear Sterns also is a name that pops up. Radial are owners of American Chrome the go to shop for chrome bits to hang on your trans US rig ( that statement could be mis

Has this just started or has it been there some time? If just started is it a new clutch? Is snatch a single event as the pedal is raised or does it feel like it is jerking as the pedal comes up? If new clutch then consider the dowel bolts that locate the engine and gear box have not been fitted Lubrication has been covered above.

OK it’s in with a new filter. initial oil pressure is reassuring as it’s up at 65 psi warm at fast tickover more in a week when I’ve done some miles

The very reason I have today changed the coolant in my car some 2 years after pouring it in.

That’s the photo I have been searching for. All done with a pop rivet and a bit of spring steel strapping Elegant solution.

Magnet on a bit of string through the starter motor hole might recover the lost bits. So your starter looks a bit like this one the later exposed bendix type.

Link to previous discussion

Plus one to that Adam as a contemporary who also witnessed that stupendous bit of ‘reverse synergy’ by Inghams. They were notably described at the time by a customer who was an investment banker as “the stuffed shirts with a brass plaque in Jersey”

Sorry wrong end of the stick. You could use brake pad anti rattle springs I got fed up with pad rattle and fitted them some 30 years ago. Would not be without them. They are nothing more than bits of shaped spring wire. Here is a view of how they fit and a NOS Girling pad fitting kit that included them