BlueTR3A-5EKT

Image I posted before of cracks in the ferrous rocker shaft pedestals of a TR2. Later cars used cast aluminium pedestals. The cracks are visible inside and on the end faces. Such cracking is unlikely to have caused your push rod failure though. Worth inspecting if it is all in bits.

If the car is not negative earth now as has been said you will also need to swap the low tension leads on the coil. The lead going to the distributor must be connected to the terminal on the coil that has the same polarity symbol as the earth of the battery. If…you have CB and SW notation on the low tension terminals of the coil, all bets are off. Unless there is a statement of suitable polarity on the coil. The correct connection can be confirmed by use of a lead pencil and the HT connectors and observing the start and finish places of the spark. Again we await IanC

Agreed. Had precisely that on a 2500 S which is essentially a Stag brake system

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=59372 I put this in the Bonanza some time back

Original push rods? Solid or tubular push rods? Solids were replaced on TR2 because of weakness. Steel or aluminium pedestals? The steel ones crack

Yes you can re torque and pin. The bearing adjustment is done by the BIG hexagon nut and lock locks at the back of the hub. Hub needs to be off the car to do it

The torque you state is for the big nut that holds the flange to the diff. The torque for those 3:8” unf bolts and nyloc nuts is considerably less.

Agreed that is not a TR solenoid mounting plate. If it works without hitting the chassis stick with it. The o ring on the operating shaft I always thought was inside under that plate. Sandwiched between plate and casing. Is there a seal location in the main case?

+1 My thought. The gear stick has been ‘over lifted’ , to get it in reverse and the anti rattle plunger has popped out.

1/2” x 20 tpi unf Same as petrol tank outlet

Thanks for the reply

Interesting. The description ‘floater’ made me think this was a fully floating axle shaft but the fitting of the bearing to the shaft into the axle tube makes it look like semi floating. The axle hub bearings of the fully floating axle would be in the outer hub housing.

Thank you. A lot more elegant and understandable than the one I found

The Clear Hooters 3 terminal wiper switch for TR5 is pretty much unique. I think It was also used on contemporary GT6 mk 2 I have never found a Lucas replacement switch with 3 terminals with the same internal connections as the TR5/250 rocker switch does. The US recall on Triumph wiper switches only offered the 4 terminal Lucas item, suitable for TR6 and the later 14w motor. There is/was a wiring diagram floating about that describes how to use a TR6 switch with 4 terminals with the 3 wire wiper motor in a TR5/250. Someone may have it and post

Do you have one of these?

It exists. There was one on my TR2. The stay is part no 108480. Held at each end by hexagon headed 10/32 unf screws and nuts.

Yes that is correct arrangement. Lucas 41219 distributor. There is a blank end where the vacuum capsule could be. The knurled nut works in an identical way to those Lucas distributors with a capsule, it will advance or retard the points base plate when turned.

There is a square steel plate above the pedals inside the car that is held on by 4 self tapping screws. Remove it and you can get at the master cylinder attachment bolts from inside the car, with a socket on an extension.

That looks like an on/off two position switch not a spring loaded passing contact momentary type of switch, which is needed for Roger’s unit.

I am in experiment mode Have just ordered a couple of momentary type toggle switches that may fit the pear shaped overdrive switch housing on a TR3A, in a better way than the SPDT micro/mini switch I have currently fitted. It has an adult toggle to operate compared to the micro/mini switch.

A couple of questions for you Are you concerned about the noise and that it may harm your engine? How much is another oil filter? Buy one and shake that? Alternatively…..How much is a crank re grind plus shells? If I doubted the filter I would replace it for peace of mind If when the new replacement arrives and it too makes the same rattle, you can put the new filter on the shelf and leave the one you noted as rattling fitted to the car.

‘Beat me’ begged the masochist. ‘No!’ Replied the sadist menacingly.

For sale New but scruffy Spitfire or GT6 RH inner front wheel arch. Could be a Steelcraft panel rather than StanPart as it has no label attached. Can be used for its original purpose or hacked to be used to repair a TR £35.00. Plus what ever carriage is if not collected. PM if interested.

As does the current mayor of London, unless he can work out how to shove his hand in the owner’s pockets.

We have two Dovre multi fuel stoves. Both have to be above a certain efficiency to satisfy the clean air zone we live in. They are both certificated to prove this. https://dovre.co.uk We too have stove top fans bought from Lidl at about £20 each and a thermometer to confirm it is all burning hot enough. Both chimneys are flue lined and the installations were completed by HETAS approved installer. I reduced the grate size this year on our 7 kw stove using fire bricks as advised by the maker as the stove threw out too much heat for the room size. It is bordering on tropical!