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iani

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Posts posted by iani

  1. 3 minutes ago, PodOne said:

    Hi Jonny 

    You can remake the OEM PI dbl cable using bike brake cable.

    The aftermarket ones allegedly poor quality and fail but having remade mine myself I then swapped to one of Martins (Fred Millturn) redesigns along with some of his other items which works better and easier to adjust.  

    Andy

    We fitted one of Martin's CP choke cables to my Mk1 2.5PI Estate (homage) today, works a treat, I already use the 2nd cable part of this on my Mk2 PI Saloon to solve a broken cable issue to the MU on that car. Martin is an extremely helpful supplier.

    Ian

  2. 3 hours ago, stuart said:

    Actually it was UK market ones (apart from the short lived 420 model) and they were HD8 not HS6, US market XJ6 had Strombergs for emission reasons. However all world 3.8 models had HS6 and were capable of 230hp.

    Stuart.

     

  3. 2 hours ago, roy53 said:

    3.8 jaguars run happily on 3 SU so a 2.5 should be happy on 2 SU. The 2500 saloons were ok as well.

    Roy

    US market 4.2l Jaguars were happy on 2 SU's, the triples overfuelled but they just look so very good.

  4. 1 hour ago, harrytr5 said:

    Many thanks for this Deryck.

    I presume Alisdair will follow up on this and a report issued to allay concerns.

    Regards Harry

    Alasdair was due to visit EJ Ward this morning, to view my shaft and a pair of Stag shafts, presumably those above as the failure scenarios match what I have heard. I haven't heard back from Alasdair yet.

    Ian

  5. I replaced the original seats in my TR6 with removable headrest MX5 ones, I could have had the TR ones recovered but they still would have lacked the support that the MX5 ones gave. If you are going to spend a lot of time in the car comfort is very important, I use Alfa 156 seats in my PI saloon & estate, I also fit modern seats to gain headrests, again, missing in early Triumph seats.

  6. 4 hours ago, marting said:

    Hi Andy,

    Hope you are well. In the Fred Millturn kit, the overfuel lever on the metering unit is operated by the link cable attached to the fast idle cam. If you are getting full movement on the overfuel lever, the cam is rotating correctly. The CP fast idle cam in the kit has the same lift as the originals which is only about 1mm in total. This 1mm has to overcome any play in the linkages and butterfly spindles and then open the butterflies by a tiny amount. The clearance gap specified in the manual is fine when everything is new, however, 1mm of lift can be easily lost if there is play in the countershaft, linkage rods, swivel posts and butterfly spindles. As such, ignore the gap specified in the manual and adjust the screw that acts on the fast idle cam until you get the butterflies to open and close on the fast idle cam. If you have adjusted this and it is holding the butterflies open when the choke is off you have gone too far. Once this is in the zone, you then have the facility to adjust the increased revs with the amount of overfuel by adjusting the adjuster on the link cable. If you cannot get it setup correctly, let me know and I will pop up to have a look to see what’s going on.

    Kind regardsMartin – Fred Millturn Parts

    Exceptional customer service from Martin as usual, if only all traders took aftercare as seriously!

  7. 2 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

    <snip>

    As far as I’m aware the previous new hubs with failures, HAVEN’T suffered with broken stub axles or broken hubs. As we’ve reported we are awaiting different reports from owners on a GT6 and on Stag, to see what caused their particular failures. I hope that information will help. </snip>

     

     

    I collected my broken shaft from Wards this afternoon, they were able to pull the hub off ok, nothing had seized & the bearing still contains the original blue grease and turns freely. The shaft has sheared towards the inboard end of the woodruff key slot, the shaft is still bright and shows no sign of blueing which you would expect if it had been subject to high temperatures. I will take some pics of it this weekend and send to CDD for comment.

  8. I really don't see the point in having this EV concept on the TRR stand at all, it has nothing to do with our marque, it's only been produced under licence. I own an electric "driving appliance" it's ok for what it does but it has little in common with my ICE vehicles, I much prefer driving the latter, the quirkiness, the sounds, the smells, none of which I get from my EV. Keep them out I say, our interests are in motor cars of a bygone era, not wheeled fridges.

    Ian

  9. 9 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:

    Afik the CCD hubs were sourced from a modern Japanese car of greater weight than the TRs. Obviously there may be different leadings when used on the TRs. No product is immune to failure or perhaps the odd sub standard component.

    Are the CCD hubs on the GT6 the same as the TR ones?

    No Andy, they aren't, the failure on my GT6 was the shaft shearing, the failure on a Stag CV shaft I have seen was the shaft shearing, I know of a third instance on a Spitfire, same shafts as my GT6. My concern is with the steel used, I know that EN24 is commonly used for driveshafts, what I don't know is how it has been heat treated.

  10. 6 hours ago, Macleesh said:

    Taking the risk matrix concept further, any risk that has consequences of harm to person or persons requires mitigation. In this case a hub failure is likely to render the car uncontrollable, a collision is possible if not probable with the potential to injure or kill occupants and involve other road users. Therefore mitigation definitely required. The only way that I could see to achieve that was brand new hubs and drive shafts. Others may have a different appetite for the risk, I just wanted a fit and forget solution that didn't leave me in a constant state of anxiety every time I got in the car.

    Exactly the thought process that I went through when I selected new CDD shafts & hubs, didn't get me very far though, few k miles & a couple of years.

  11. 1 hour ago, john.r.davies said:

    Iain,

    My electronic sender sits on a T-piece and short length of Aeroquip, under the bonnet.    Where is this "unused boss" that may be drilled to take a sensor, please?

    Your solution is most ingenious, but I need a pointer to where it is!

    John

    Here's an untapped MU John, the boss is clearly visible.

    Ian

    boss.jpg

  12. I wanted a fuel pressure gauge permanently fitted but I didn't want to run a fuel line into the passenger compartment. Lucas originally intended for the PRV to be mounted on the Metering Unit, Triumph disagreed but there remains an unused boss on the MU. I had my MU reconditioned by KMI, whilst there I had them drill and tap the boss to take an electronic pressure sender unit. I use a gauge from www.speedhut.com, the one I have is a 200 PSI unit which is great as the running pressure is just over vertical on the display, unfortunately I think they only offer a 160psi unit now.

    Ian

    mu.jpg

  13. 3 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

    Iani, 

    Not sure what your comment means regarding "spoiling the CDD love in" (people are just recounting their experiences, if you have something different to add please state it clearly for the avoidance of doubt) or your comment regarding "SERIOUS UPGRADE FOR SERIOUS USERS" my ar5e !  What does that mean and who said it ? 

    Given that these photos are from your GT6 "solid shaft" and many of us (me for example) don't know where you got your failed component from or the circumstances perhaps you can elucidate the circumstances and what was said by the supplier when the failed component was presented back to them.

    Mick Richards

     

    The “SERIOUS UPGRADE…” quote is from the CDD website Mick, you can see what happened to my car here: 

    This car has only just returned from France, the shaft should be removed this week. The car is at a Triumph specialist who has a sheared CV shaft from a Stag awaiting CDD’s inspection too.

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