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M. Pied Lourd

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Everything posted by M. Pied Lourd

  1. Fantastic Tim, congratulations! I’m hoping to follow in your footsteps before the end of Summer. Cheers, Tush
  2. Yes I am Hamish Cheers, Tush
  3. Hi Richard, Don’t know if this helps, but just completed them recently on my TR250 ( same as the 6). About the 20 minute mark of this video. Cheers, Tush
  4. M. Pied Lourd

    Gas Struts

    https://clarkandclarkinc.com/catalog/detail/bonnet-lift-kit-for-tr6 Cheers, Tush
  5. I believe the Roadster Factory in the US stocks the mounting kit. Just checked...the left hand side is available, the right is NLS part number 625311 For the pieces that attach to the A post, they are available under part number 625315 Cheers, Tush
  6. If you are looking for something to try, you can try Nightwatch Blue, Chrysler DB9. Cheers, Tush
  7. I was hoping you would jump in here Tom Good to see you. Cheers Tush
  8. Lincoln Easy Mig 140 running C25 Gas does everything I want it to do on any TR that I have worked on. Cheers Tush
  9. Hi Peter, What other mods do you have? Cam? Headwork? Exhaust etc. Cheers Tush
  10. Really Nice Paul. I’ve made some pretty good COVID progress on mine but I’ve still got a very long way to go. Cheers, Tush
  11. Making sure the car is fairly close to being level Cheers Tush
  12. Thank You for the reply. I'll see how long it will take to get the other style to me.... I figured it could work as there will be at least 1/2 of the edge of the cup to still seal along with a little RTV around the edge....plus the plug would be held in with the gasket and front engine plate....you are right though, I would hate to have to take it back out again. I am planning on doing my engine break in prior to putting the body back on but I am not sure a 20 minute break in time would be sufficient to know if it was leaking or not.... As an aside, I have sent the Vendor I purch
  13. Thank you for this thread...I’m just encountering the same problem on my TR250 engine build. I have the cup type and also have the recess...I’m thinking of carefully grinding down the lip of the cup one the ensure it is flush (or slightly below) the face of the block so the gasket and front engine plate fit correctly over it...it is the right diameter plug but not the right depth. Any thought on this approach? Don’t think I want to wait 2 weeks for a new dished one... Cheers Tush
  14. On the doors alone (if that is what you are asking) there are 6 rivet clips on my TR250. Cheers Tush
  15. Stuart, question for you, I see you added some triangulation at the trailing arm box sections. Is there any concerns having the plates on top of the frame? Does this interfere with the body fitting down on the chassis outriggers or do you just add shims to compensate? Cheers, Tush
  16. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but I have modded my chassis as above but also have bars in front of the diff support...so support for and aft...this meant I had to channel and pocket my body tub so like I said, not everyone’s cup of tea... Cheers Tush
  17. Hi Graham, Take a look at this gents video. I think it’s a good video and shares my sentiments. It goes into the differences of the various frames and their strengths and weaknesses. On my TR250 restoration, I added structural steel bars to support the diff from rocking foreword and back...not everyone’s cup of tea but I thought I’d go ahead and try something different than my TR6 stock frame set up... Cheers Tush
  18. Hi All, Not sure if there is any interest, but I’m helping a neighbour/buddy of mine to restore a 1976 NA Spec TR6. In actuality, there are two cars involved with the other being a 73 that was purchased as a parts/body donor for the 76. We have spent 18 days stripping the two cars down (from as little as two hours per day to as many as eight hours per day). I have made a playlist of our efforts on YouTube if anyone would like to follow along. Cheers Tush
  19. Looks like you are missing a bit...here’s mine. Cheers Tush
  20. Hamish, Make sure you take some video when you get around to doing them Cheers Tush
  21. Hi Paul, Good Luck with your project. I look forward to following along. Cheers Tush
  22. Thanks Des, Here is the one I have installed. I believe the actual switch for the front of the dash is sold separately. https://mossmotors.com/switch-turn-signal-on-dash https://mossmotors.com/media/instructions/162-400.pdf Good luck with your restoration. Cheers Tush
  23. I’m using the switch from and MGA and have been very happy with it. It is self cancelling and the timing is adjustable. I’ve got it fitted to the dash just beside my OD switch. Cheers Tush
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