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Motorsport Mickey

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Posts posted by Motorsport Mickey

  1. 10 hours ago, Topoff said:

    Bit TRicky as the tank gets wider the nearer the fuel gets to the filler for the first few inches. The only way to be sure would be to start with an empty tank and add a gallon, mark the stick and go again.  Good luck. 

    But that's not what he asked, if he wan'ts a nearly calibrated stick then he does what you suggest until the tank is full. If however, he just wants to know the lift in petrol level of 1 gallon added to his current amount then he does what I suggest.

    Mick Richards

  2. 8 hours ago, astontr6 said:

    If you use it in one of Peter Burgess's engines you loose the warranty. He hates it and he is a top engine builder???

    Bruce

    And he does lots of Rolling Road work with his state of the art equipment and he always stated he won't run engines with waterless coolant in it.

    Mick Richards

  3. Hi Richard,

    It's tempting to just burn logs in an open fireplace but the heat loss from the room up the chimney is depressing.

    Whilst mulling the purchase of a heat stove (not bought yet) I came across these videos...

    https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=recoheat+heat+recovery+unit

    The Recoheat is a flue heat recovery unit which can be inserted into a flue or constrained (tube fed) chimney. Take a look at the video, completed in a semi professional manner it appears to show significant advantages withy the only ongoing financial outlay (another Reco heat video in this area says about 17 amp draw per hour...miniscule) being for a small exterior compressor (similar to an air pump on a fish tank aquarium) which propels the heated air out of the flue and into the room. The noise is akin to blowing over your lips until they vibrate...not much, and if the air pump is positioned outside your house window or in another room will be absolutely quiet. 

    It appears to show that the Recoheat will warm rooms very quickly and continue to extract the heat from the flue and stove for a considerable time (hours ?) whilst they cool back to ambient temperature. Maybe worth considering.

    Mick Richards

  4. “is there a scientific reason for this. “

    Phil

    Yes, depending upon the breathing of various engines the inside of the block when running is like a mighty washing machine.


    Even with trucks, you don’t fill the oil to the top mark, and the correct level is the one where the pressure inside doesn’t get excessive and push the oil out past the seals. With modern trucks, particularly running electric oil level gauges, you constantly have to remind drivers that the early morning oil check MUST be done before starting the engine. They often like to move the truck to the fuel bowser or pump and check the oil as the truck is being fuelled. There is so much oil held in Suspension inside the engine, that even a 10 or 15 second engine run to get the truck to the pumps leaves enough suspended inside the gubbins( technical term),  that by the end of the week drivers complain of oil blow by and smoking on corners ( excessive splashing from the crank dipping into the oil). When you drain the engine it’s not unusual for it to be a litre or 2 ( big volumes in trucks) too full and the oil seals don’t like it. 
    The engine doesn’t care if the oil level is to the minimum mark, or somewhere in the middle of the scale. It doesn’t run worse or better, and keeping it full because then you don’t have to check it so often…! is not a good reason. 
    You’ll often find the engine establishes itself the correct level, it will chuck out the excess and then the consumption becomes much less when the level is correct.

    Mick Richards

  5. 11 minutes ago, RobH said:

    Apart from having a logging function, that gizmo won't tell you any more about the battery than does the voltmeter already fitted to your car (and much less than an ammeter can ) .  ;)

     

    But it can do it whilst you have breakfast telling you if the car will need a boost to get started ?

    Mick Richards

  6. I hate having a potential large leak or breakdown saved up for away from home.

    So on the basis a "buggers job" is better done in your drive, drop the fluid and warm the tap up with a blow torch (don't melt) and quickly try to TIGHTEN the tap body up or get some movement by using two large spanners at 180 deg to each other pulling and pushing together to keep the force equal on the large nut sized body of the tap. If it moves even a few mm it will probably break the seal  (if it's the BSP tap body it should be, there's only 1 thread and a half on the body that seals it, so should come out). If it comes out cleanly you may be able to strip it down and after cleaning lap the valve in as suggested by Ian (above) and reuse it. If not replace with a bolt or a new tap, but I'd still lap the tap in first before fitting.

    Mick Richards

  7. 15 hours ago, pfenlon said:

    Hello Stuart, I have a surrey top now, and have removed the steel roof having bought a used "H" Frame and soft  top from Craig at bits.

    the soft top front lip, that should go under the header rail, doesn't want to play, there seems not enough room for it to tuck under?

     

    Different header bar plate I'm afraid Peter.

    The TR4 (ONLY) has the Surrey top (the soft foldable centre section) with an insewn 3 piece thin steel tab in the material along the front edge. This pushes under the leading edge of the header bar plate, if there's space.

    The TR4a has the soft top over centre buckles with the location piece to fix to on the rear of the top windscreen frame, and the TR250-TR6 has the header plate securing ...using "plunge" cam handles that go into the header bar (same as on the Stag).

    The TR4a and the TR5/6 versions are a lot more "secure," some of the TR4 with new header rail plates don't have adequate space along the front edge for the Surrey top material with it's inbuilt steel shim plates to fold around and be pushed under. This normally comes to light when you turn onto a motorway and get the speed up to 70mph, and then with a bang the front edge becomes disconnected and pulls out and is whipped over the cockpit area, luckily the Surrey rear bar fixed onto the rear backlight remains fixed, and the Surrey material lands onto the boot, hence the enthusiasm to convert the TR4 to a 4a or TR5/6 header bar arrangement. (used header bar required then fit the Surrey material around the header bar and glue in place.)

    It's been covered before on the forum, try searching on Google using TR Register Forum, Surrey Header bar or somesuch description will find it. 

    Mick Richards

    PS: I see you've posted a photo (as I've typed) which shows your TR250 header bar and the holes for the cam locks. If you want to keep that you'll need a Surrey top material with extra material at the front. Also a TR5/250/6 front hood header bar (I got mine by buying a "manky" TR6 soft top frame for a £Tenner and cut the header bar off it) so you can use it to wrap and glue the Surrey top material around it.

  8. "Re-Torque the Head is the next job"

    Don't forget to UNDO the nuts first by about 1 flat, (I do it in the torquing sequence) don't be surprised when it torques back up past where it was before.

    Mick Richards

     

     

  9. 3 hours ago, Tony_C said:

    Hi Dave, the best ‘recommendation’ I was given is don’t fit them unless you are also fitting a robust roll-over bar….

    Yeah, that’s why motorcyclists don’t get hurt as much in accidents ! ! !

    My god, some people who don’t believe in seatbelts will tell some tales to try and propagate their views.
    Remember, seat belt law came in 1971, and many of those current cars were lacking in collapsing cell technology, Anglia, Ford Pops etc but still there was a dramatic fall in deaths and injury with seat belt fitment.

    Fit seat belts, oooh and if you can a rear roll over bar, oooh and if you can a rear cockpit alloy firewall, protect yourself and your family.

    Mick Richards

  10. 1 hour ago, trchris said:

    Hi Mick 

    yes that’s what l meant along with getting drift when caught in the tarmac tracks the HGVs make !!! 
    Chris

    The description for a car and tyre that does that Chris is "tracking", sometimes it can be bad enough to pick up on road white markings also. Handling is a description used to describe the changing of the car attitude or behaviour to driver input.

    The 195s because they are a squarer profile with the cambered inner surface contacting more, will tend to pick up road input from lines or changes in road surface HGV "ruts" in the road surface for example.

    Mick Richards

  11. I think maybe owners need to be careful.

    Westway market at least 2 oils at 20-50 (maybe more) and there's only 1 that I can find that says it has a high Zinc content (1500 Zinc by content ZDDP), Bobs using it. Indeed there is a statement on some 20-50 containers offered that it CAN be used on engines with a catalyst.

    As Peter states in an earlier post, a template used is if you can use it on a catalyst engine it's likely NOT got a high Zinc ZDDP content, which means I won't use it on my engines.

    Mick Richards

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