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About Brian-Northampton

  • Birthday 07/07/1967

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    Classic Cars, making and meeting new friends on forums and at shows
    I used to play the piano - but work and cars didn't leave me with any time to practice!
    Surfing eBay - that does sound so sad! I must get out more!

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  1. All, Many of you here will know Dave, some of you may also count him amongst your friends. Earlier today, Dave lost his battle with cancer and passed away in his sleep. God bless him. Brian.
  2. Hi All, Before I start putting the gearbox back in, I want to tidy up some of the bits I took out. The black 'H' frame as I call it - not really an H, but the bit that bolts to the chassis and the dash. It's currently matt black and has a rough texture. If I rub it down to paint it, it's going to be smooth and I'd rather keep it as original looking as possible. How has anyone else painted this item? Thanks, Bri.
  3. I went to HP Tyres in Daventry .. .if that's not too far from you. http://www.hptyres.co.uk/index.htm You need to remove the wheels off the car yourself and take them to their depot. They do lots of historic racing support and have all the kit for wire wheels. They charged me £10 a wheel and I have no problems whatsoever. Bri.
  4. Hi Roger - yes I got it. When I took the box in for repair, it was one of the first things he looked at..... commenting on how it had been previously repaired. I'm confident it's now a good 'un Bri.
  5. Hi Roger, The whole box has been overhauled and the fork etc checked ...... here is the diagnosis after strip down..... It's all been done now - just waiting for me to collect. Bri.
  6. Hi All, My gearbox has been overhauled/rebuilt - and apparently not before time too, it was close to destroying itself (2nd gear bush or something from memory). Anyway, I need a new clutch to refit - the type with the 3 big fingers and big springs as opposed to the multi fingered diaphragm type .... what is the real name for these clutches? Are there any to steer clear of, any good quality parts currently in circulation that I should go for? All experience welcome so that it only goes back together once and stays there for a good few 10's of '000 of miles. Many thanks, Brian.
  7. Just to update....... I found the PDF at home (back from holidays and a superb sun tan ) which expains how to take a barrel apart (didn't need that bit). I just like to know what is the other side of stuff before I take it apart, that's all. Locking mechanism cleaned up and should now be working reliably. Found a shard of metal about 2mm long in there, my guess is that it was preventing the plunger from properly seating in the "unlocked" position and so easily worked itself out or wouldn't go in the unlocked position in the first place. It looks like my door handle / locks have been
  8. Just grabbed a bit of hotel internet time.............. I did a temporary fix a year ago, but it's starting to play up again. I'm sure I had a PDF of how to take these apart etc at home, and it didn't end up on my laptop when coming abroad. I've read and re-read my Practical Classics that I brought with me and I'm pining for more car reading. ..... and was looking for a bit of lock reading material while soaking up the sun :-) Alan - Thanks for being helpful :-)
  9. Glad to hear it! Presumably you get at the tank from both the boot and the 'back seat' ..... and presumably the Rev's Firewall is screwed in so that you can remove it to gain access to the fuel tank?? Bri.
  10. Thanks Ian - as I feared. Is it a big job? Had a look at the Haynes book of lies and it doesn't sound too bad, but suspect that undoing some of the bits (like the vent pipe and filler hose) will take some dexterity with my big hands. Bri.
  11. Hi All, I'm thinking of changing the fuel sender to try to get rid of some of the erratic readings. The first 1/4 of the tank from full takes up 3/4 of the guage and when I'm getting down on fuel, I'm resorting to the dipping method. I took the boot liner out, had a look and thought "b!!ch". So..... what are your tips? Many thanks, Bri.
  12. Standard radiator caps were all about £3.50 at Stoneleigh at the weekend. I picked up 3 stainless steel ones (one for TR, two for the Rover.... rad cap and expansion tank) for £15 which I thought was a bargain (bulk buy haggling!) Bri.
  13. OK - shims fitted. Only needed 2mm shims, not 3mm. Here are the shims that I made up 2" x 2" worked a treat, but because they're square, when fitted, the offside one is a gnat's whisker away from the lower steering column rubber coupling. So best to file off the corner as shown here. Thought I'd best point it out for the benefit of others. Cheers, Bri.
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