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wvukidsdoc

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  • Content Count

    6
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About wvukidsdoc

  • Birthday 11/26/1970

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Profile Information

  • Location
    USA, Alaska
  • Cars Owned:
    VW transporters, my TR4A, log home restoration
  1. Basically as title asks, will 15x7 5 spoke Revolution's with purported 4 inch backspacing, fit on a 4A, and if so what size rubber can I run on them? Stock height car, stock bodywork. The set is a heck of a deal, but I have no way to trial them on the car prior to shipping them so... Thanks to anyone who might know. John
  2. Add to the list loose key or other looseness in the oil pump/dizzy drive shaft... Actually a bit less intimidating that the other causes mentioned. John
  3. I think Andy has an interesting arguement about ignition reliability. Although I've never had a Pertronix problem, with over 150k miles combined in several VW and Porsche applications, they are another potential place to fail. Currently I use a cheap aftermarket US made CDI system reccomended to me about 12-13 years ago in all my points triggered vehicles. Gives a nice hotter spark, better fuel mileage, and if I need to revert it to the standard ignition, would take me about 10 minutes. Points will last forever (nearly) just as a trigger, only bearing block wear as an issue. Could use pre
  4. I too have been thinking about this and have perused some of the dual single cylinder setups on the www. Although effective, I just don't like the whole balance bar setup idea. I've also looked quite extensively for a suitable dual circuit cylinder that would mount physically in the space of the stocker, or nearly so. I perused ebay looking at about 500 listed master cylinders for any car, old, new, etc, as well as looing at Wilwood and other racing suppliers to no avail. Anyone ever find anything short enough, space to the firewall is so damn limited. I'm not at all picky about fittings
  5. Thanks to all the suggestions so far. The gap issue is the "typical" one shown in Williams book, the gap on the tops are probably 10-11 mm on both sides, at the bottom 4-5mm on both sides. The doors do not close particularly well because of it, though they haven't popped open on me yet... Oddly, or perhaps as I surmise because of creep on a non-rusted chassis, jacking does not change anything. As an experiment I have had the rear frame up on jack stands at the extreme rear just at the bumper (fender to you guys eh?) supports with the front on the wheels for the last week. The gaps have no
  6. I've had a look through the forum a few times and am need of suggestion despite my search. I have a rather different sort of problem with the frame on my 4A. History: I purchased the car on a whim last year as I'm in AK, always wanted a TR3 in the day, and the price was right and .... So the car is a true CA one owner (well until 3 years before me when a local Triumph nut bought it to make a racer out of then couldn't do it because it is so original) car, brought to AK about 10 years ago, but mostly from sunny southern CA. Never used more than as a summer driver here, and garaged it
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