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tr-idr

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  1. John, as above, 10A. That is what Triumph fitted for the Stags with J type.
  2. Yes, there is only a tiny bit of movement. 5mm is more like what I would have expected to see. Sounds like I need to get that circlip removed to see what is jamming it up. Thanks for your input.
  3. Hi, I have a problem with a J Type overdrive. At start of a journey, the overdrive will work a few times in the normal manner, but after that it will not disengage. I'm judging that on the rpm for a given speed, and also I know not to use reverse gear when in doubt if the overdrive is engaged. It will sometimes disengage itself, but I can't give an explanation of when that happens. I've checked out all the wiring and interlocks. A test lamp across the solenoid works perfectly in the appropriate gears. I've also removed the solenoid just to have a look at it, and to operate it on the bench. It takes the expected 2A current, but I was surprised at how little movement there was visible within the valve part. Visible movement was less than 0.5mm. I haven't taken out the circlip yet, but it all looked very clean. I've reinstalled it for now, but would welcome anyone's comments on what movement to expect. Failing any progress I intend draining the oil, and checking the filters. If I find nothing wrong then, I guess a new solenoid is the 'cheapest' starting point. Can anyone advise? Thanks.
  4. Had one on a 2.5pi. Car was only 2 years old and the resistors in series with the lights showed bad signs of overheating. Previous owner or garage had wired it never to work so lights never dimmed. Wise move!
  5. Another problem was the gear lever snapping beside the hole for the wires. Worth adding a sleeve to strengthen it. Had a lever snap on a 2.5pi and also a dolomite.
  6. Hi Writing this away from my workshop manual - but I'm sure back in the 80's I had the same problem - with a Lucas ACR15 alternator. In that there is a full wave rectifier (6 diodes) that generate the DC to actually charge the battery, and a separate half-wave rectifier (3 diodes in a single 4 pin package) that is used for the ignition warning light. I'd guess when you say the car works fine, the main diodes are OK. But one of the diodes in the half wave rectifier will have failed meaning that the battery is finding a path through the ignition warning light and the field windings back to the negative battery terminal. All you need is a new diode module which I recall wasn't very difficult to fit. Cost me a couple of quid back then from an auto electricians.
  7. Yes, I'd just installed the Bosch pump in the same position as the original Lucas one shortly before going to Switzerland. On my return, I mounted it in the wheel arch to gain a little more pressure at the inlet. Some people have spoken about putting a small electric pump in series to pressurise the inlet, but I never got around to doing that. Never had the car back at altitude to check it out properly - but I guess plenty of others have managed OK.
  8. I think you'll find that whilst what you are saying is part of the reason, the major difference is that with a full tank, you have around 12 - 16 inches of fuel pressure creating a nice healthy inlet pressure at the pump. When the tank is nearly empty, you lose most of this and the pump starts to struggle to suck the fuel in. You'll also notice a similar problem if you take the car up in altitude. Back in the 80's we took our 6 to Switzerland and we were stopping regularly for small intakes of fuel just to keep the pump happy. Rather than lacking the 12 or so inches of fuel pressure, we were of course missing around 4000 feet of air pressure. On the return home, as soon as we were back out of the mountains, the pump was happy again. The pump was a Bosch one by the way.
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