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hot-growler

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Posts posted by hot-growler

  1. SHi, rebuilt my 150pi engine and purchased new throttle linkages as my old ones were badly worn. Got it all together and it's running like a pig. Is there anyone in the Lancashire area that can give me a hand. I have a couple of synchro gadgets and am aware of the theory of the job, but putting into practice is something quite different altogether. Thanks, Stephen 

  2. Hello. I have since refitted the bits and tries again.

    Is it normal for pressure to increase when adjusting screw clockwise with a bit of fuel leaving the back of the valve (max pressure was 105) and then pressure drop with a significant gush of fuel?. 

    Well that is what has happened, so i backed it anticlockwise and left it at 105.  

    Thanks, steve.

  3. prv.mhtmlHi, checking fuel pressure at the metering unit, i'm only getting 90PSI, so I decided to strip the PRV. I think the nylon adjuster was seized.

    Anyway I found a flat rubber washer at the bottom of the valve housing. The workshop manual shows no sign of it in the stripdown pic. Should it be there.

    Are there any ways to increase pressure to 105PSI?

    Thanks a mil

  4. Hi, i currently have the crank at TDC and timing marks 'C' lined up as in brown repair manual. dots A and B are where the book suggests, but valves are open on #1 cylinder but closed on #6. Have I got the camshaft 180 degrees out?

    When i turn the camshaft to close valves on cylinder 1 the timing mark 'C' is 180 degrees out. I'm confused.

    Steve

  5. hi everyone, i haven't read any of the replies for a few days as i was kindly given a cap by jerrytr5 for a nominal fee. Tried the cap as was but could feel a lip that showed it wasn't in line with the lower curve of the bearing housing, and when bolted up the crank wouldn't budge.

    Took it to an engineering shop in Bradford called W Drake ltd that specizlise in line boring, and miraculously they line bored it back to original. All 4 caps have been worked slightly.

    Have trial fitted the crank back in and it seems to be fine, the crank spins freely with caps torqued down. 

    Thank you to everyones input, particularly Jerry, who kindly let me have his spare cap.

    Will check size of crank, but the fact it spins freely makes me think it is correct. Steve.  DSC_0226.thumb.JPG.76e84392856f37d6fe5eeba4119de399.JPG

  6.  

    I considered just fitting and hoping for the best so i refitted the broken cap and torqued it up and pieces fitted together well. added engineers blue and seemed to turn very easily. shell was fine, no obvious rubbing of the crank

    Not going to go down that road cos if it fails under load there'll be a mess. 

    Just had crank ground to 10 thou and correct bearings fitted.

     

  7. East Lancashire, but can travel

     

     

     

    14 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

    You need a good quality engineering firm. Even better if they’ve done it before with auto connections. A steel cap needs making up the same size as the one broken, outside dimensions the same to allow it to ‘nip’ into the block, copy the broken cap. Then they’ll put in a jig borer and align bore it ( alignment bore) to accurately give you a new steel cap that fits into place the same as the others and will carry the bearing.

    I see you are in Lancashire but that covers a lot of area, can you give us a more Specific area ? The local TR group will be a good ask first to tell you who can do and if trusted.

    Mick Richards

     

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