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Everything posted by hot-growler

  1. Hi, does anyone know the best way to replace the central spindle bush on the throttle shaft? Is it just a case of cutting and opening it up & gluing it back together? thanks, Steve.
  2. Hello. I have since refitted the bits and tries again. Is it normal for pressure to increase when adjusting screw clockwise with a bit of fuel leaving the back of the valve (max pressure was 105) and then pressure drop with a significant gush of fuel?. Well that is what has happened, so i backed it anticlockwise and left it at 105. Thanks, steve.
  3. prv.mhtmlHi, checking fuel pressure at the metering unit, i'm only getting 90PSI, so I decided to strip the PRV. I think the nylon adjuster was seized. Anyway I found a flat rubber washer at the bottom of the valve housing. The workshop manual shows no sign of it in the stripdown pic. Should it be there. Are there any ways to increase pressure to 105PSI? Thanks a mil
  4. Thanks for advice, I will ill get new sprockets before I fit engine. Did as John said but valves on #1 port are open and closed on #6
  5. Thanks, sounds simple, will give it a try. I remember doing timing on my Stag and seemed much simpler.
  6. Does my first pic show roughly where it needs to be for correct timing? if so then for marks A and B to line up, mark C is out. Interestingly my marks A and C on my cam sprocket are different to the Workshop Manual
  7. Hi, i currently have the crank at TDC and timing marks 'C' lined up as in brown repair manual. dots A and B are where the book suggests, but valves are open on #1 cylinder but closed on #6. Have I got the camshaft 180 degrees out? When i turn the camshaft to close valves on cylinder 1 the timing mark 'C' is 180 degrees out. I'm confused. Steve
  8. hi has anyone got a front on pic of timing chain cover, re-fitting engine together and need pic to see where studs, screws and bolts fit. had a pic but think i deleted them by mistake, thanks steve.
  9. hi everyone, i haven't read any of the replies for a few days as i was kindly given a cap by jerrytr5 for a nominal fee. Tried the cap as was but could feel a lip that showed it wasn't in line with the lower curve of the bearing housing, and when bolted up the crank wouldn't budge. Took it to an engineering shop in Bradford called W Drake ltd that specizlise in line boring, and miraculously they line bored it back to original. All 4 caps have been worked slightly. Have trial fitted the crank back in and it seems to be fine, the crank spins freely with caps torqued down. Thank y
  10. standards before, 10 thou after. not measured. will get my micrometer out to be sure.
  11. would it not also stop the crank from turning when bolted up?
  12. I considered just fitting and hoping for the best so i refitted the broken cap and torqued it up and pieces fitted together well. added engineers blue and seemed to turn very easily. shell was fine, no obvious rubbing of the crank Not going to go down that road cos if it fails under load there'll be a mess. Just had crank ground to 10 thou and correct bearings fitted.
  13. company in bradford can line bore the crank, but need acap to machine. it's cap #4 the thrust cap. engine recessed block. Steve pm'd jerrytr5 to see if he has one.
  14. by the way it is the thrust cap too, may affect things a bit...
  15. need to find a machine shop to make a cap. thanks for advice, it is easy to go down the wrong road...
  16. what about getting a replacement block and reboring to fit my pistons? Are there any differences in 2.5 blocks or are they all the same? my cp is recessed and flat piston faces. Just had head rebuilt too with a light skim as gasket had been blowing slightly.
  17. how do i go about having a cap made?
  18. 2 pieces fit together when bolted up. worth putting it in and running?
  19. Crack closed up but when I loosened it, it broke in 2. The 2 pieces fit together OK though
  20. Yes tiny crack there too. Cap still in one piece though?
  21. i may have misaligned something when putting it back together???
  22. thus is what the shell looks like. I put a 5 thou o/s thrust washer in and decided i han no end float, so i replaced it with a std one andbolted it down. tried totorque it up but struggled,. was a noise i think that is when it gave way.
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