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Mikell

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Posts posted by Mikell

  1. Christine,

    Cleaning of the wires ....... someone on the forum recently suggested using 'Muc Off' (readily available from Halfords etc), so I tried it and it's super stuff !! Easy to use as a pump spray bottle ....follow the instructions.... just spray on, and then hose off, a quick wipeover = clean and shiny. It's also cheap and will do loads of cleans.

     

    Mike.

  2. Hi Stuart,

    Thanks for the reply .........as DVLA showed the date of liability as being in 2001, I thought it meant that the car had been due for RFL/SORN at that time - but hadn't been. Hence I decided it had probably "gone"........however I bow to your knowledge in these matters, and am now intrigued to re-discover it - or it's history !

    Still surprised it changed from valencia blue to green though ............. but I guess a DVLA typo is easier to achieve than a total colour change respray etc !!

    Mike.

  3. Hi all,

    I was just reading through the August 2013 issue of TRaction, and on page 3 there's a picture taken at Malvern of the 'Beta' 917 HP ......... and parked up right behind it is my first 4a reg no JXD 876D.

    I've checked the DVLA site several times over the years to see if JXD is still around, but it looks like it's 'gone' in about 2000/01 time - when it was described as Green (instead of Valencia Blue + shadow blue interior when I owned it).

    Just wondered if anyone is aware if it is still lurking unknown to DVLA - or indeed any history post 1974 when I sold it ?

     

    Cheers,

     

    Mike.

  4. I agree with the layers approach as being probably the best deterrent - I'm not sure there is a total guarantee. My Dad, now in his 90's, used to park up and walk off with the rotor arm in his pocket (just like Steve) ...............just one of many nuisance factors you can use. In the end though if someone wants it badly enough then regardless of immobilisers, alarms and trackers etc - they'll have it !

     

    Mike.

  5. Double wow,

    I've done the road trip both directions betweenn Malaysia and Singapore several times over the last few years - but never in my 4a which has remained firmly in UK. So envious of your trip, the roads etc in malaysia will make a superb run................seriously though, have you got 'added cooling' on the TR ? I think it could be a particular issue around Johor Bahru at the crossing - I've been in massive traffic congestion there with temps of 30+ for an hour or so of near enough static traffic - and that's without the F1 attraction for extra visitors !!

    Fantastic, enjoy - and pics by the zillion please..........my 4a is conifer green, and so am I !!

  6. Hi all,

    Whilst reading the numbers in the 4a engine compartment ( ?? too much spare time?) I've become confused at their meaning. Is there an easy e-guide anywhere that I can refer to ?

     

    What I've got is the 'normal' oblong-ish plate showing commission number of CTC 65492 O(verdrive), engine number that coincides with the number stamped into the block, plus paint (19) & trim (11) etc, BUT there's also a separate metal strip riveted onto the bulkhead with just a stamped number of 65154CT on it. Can someone tell me what that number refers to please ? The normal oblong plate is headed up in German ........ is that normal ? The car was nut and bolt rebuilt in 92/93 ............ which may be totally irrelevant I suppose !!

     

    Regards to all,

     

    Mike.

  7. Hiya, I had a similar decision point a couple of years ago on my 4a. I went for the Revington wide belt alternator together with their own fitting kit and heat shield. The only problem I was trying to fix was that of charging, so I retained the manual fan as I didn't want to invite any other (e.g. damper) issues. All previous (dynamo) charging issues disappeared with this approach. It wasn't the cheapest option, but it was an easy fit and it works well.

    Hope this helps.

  8. Hi David,

    I'm on a standard 4a set-up that has done about 15k miles since total professional rebuild including unleaded conversion ............ and it used to run on something awful pretty much every time.

     

    My local TR guys advised the SU's were worn to the extent they weren't closing off fully at switch-off and so were permitting fuel mix to still pass through, and were also making it difficult to get a nice steady slow-enough tickover. These 2 combining to encourage the engine to continue in the absence of myself and keys!! I invested in a pair of brand new SU's, not cheap I know, but this solved the problem by 95%. Cost was justified on the "never ending hassle factor".

     

    Re hotspots ..... I agree with the previous postings......before I switch off nowadays I always just check the temp gauge .......if it's showing below two thirds I switch off with no run-on. If it's showing two thirds or above I know from experience it may well run-on .......so I turn on the electric fan for a minute before switch-off - and she stops with no run-on. Not sure if that's coincidence - but it works for me !! Try it ?? :)

     

    Cheers,

     

    Mikell.

  9. Hi all, and many thanks for the various sucking and blowing comments and advice...... :P ..... I've now dropped the 4a into Classic Marques, and they've reversed the direction of the fan while I waited - took all of 3 or 4 minutes - and hey presto it's now working in the same direction as the existing mechanical fan. I have no idea what model number the fan is, but it changed direction "just like that" and it seems the Pacet range may be kindly disposed to such reversals. So once again those excellent Classic Marques guys have sorted things for this owner of limited capability !!

     

    All I need now is some good hot weather to see if the reversal keeps the static guage temp away from the red - fingers crossed on both counts.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Mikell.

  10. Ok, this may be silly question time, but here goes ...... :huh: ..... Several years ago I had a manually switched pacet fan installed to the 4a, whilst also retaining the fully functioning original fan. I wanted extra fanpower as although the engine had only done about 10k miles as a professionally fully rebuilt unit it tended to go too close to the red for my liking on really hot days in static or crawler traffic. The fan performance never greatly inspired me, as it didn't seem to make a great deal of difference to gauge temperature when I opted to switch it on - so I thought hey never mind, it was worth a try. Now, whilst cleaning the engine bay this morning I dropped my polishy cloth whilst the pacet (only) was running, and noticed said polishy cloth clinging for dear life to the engine side of the rad. This means then that the pacet is set to suck hot air out from the engine bay through the rad and out of the grille .......and hence the silly question - is that right, or should it be operating the other way and pushing outside cool air through the rad and into the engine bay ?

    Opinions very welcome, and if the question is really very silly indeed - then please be gentle with any responses !!

    Cheers, :)

    Mikell.

  11. Hi Justin and welcome to the world of TR ownership. Isn't the problem the other way around though - i.e. how big a car cover do you need to provide adequate protection for all the "boxes and junk" !! :rolleyes:

  12. Hi Riverstar, I've been using Firestone F560's on my 4A for several years now. Some may think they don't carry the same "esteem" as others, but the harsh reality is they don't carry the same price tag either. The F560's have been excellent for my own level of use which is casual/normal, safe & comfortable use.........with no interest in leaving an expensive trail of rubber on tarmac at lights and bends etc. Horses for courses with no rights or wrongs, but I'd say consider your use including your likely mileage, and then the ability of your bank manager to suit that use. If I needed to replace now, I'd definitely do "same again".

    Cheers.

  13. Thanks for the thoughts all. Think I'll probably dip into the bank for the one on the Register site .......kind of "good buy" for that one, and "good bye" for my old one. Regarding the battery as it is now, yep I'll get it checked out and maybe have to replace that as well .........no point charging up something that doesn't want to be, I guess any additional under-bonnet space created by a flat battery wouldn't compensate for the car not starting (sorry for that - time for my tablets !!). :blink:

  14. It looks like my ancient battery charger has decided to call it a day, and I've been looking at the various types of chargers and conditioners advertised on the internet. Confusion abounds.........so does anyone have experience to offer as to which is a good buy to support a 4a battery (which is now 7 years old) please ?

  15. Hi Paul,

    I too had the same problem as you, and with cause same / similar as Steve has outlined. In my case the rear wheel started knocking loudly with no prior warning at about 40 mph. Handling went well wrong, and I slowed to a standstill without daring to brake. On roadside investigation, the rear wheel was unbelievably loose even by me just 'hand wobbling' the tyre top. On removing the wheel, 2 of the studs were 50% undone .........the other 2 had sheared off completely. The RAC low loader man then arrived, and was amazed that I hadn't had a more unfortunate event. Just the day before I had been "challenging the national speed limits" - say no more, I suspect I was very lucky.

     

    The 4a had only a couple of weeks previously been serviced by a recognised TR specialist including fitting of 2 new half shafts together with new studs etc. The specialist subsequently examined the remains and after close examination declared a 'bad batch' of studs wherein "the camber on the shoulders were adrift by a miniscule amount". This poor seating apparently allowed the studs to loosen - with the results as previously outlined. The original studs were then re-fitted, and no further problems either of wheel loosening or of trouser soiling have been experienced. I understand the 'rogue batch' studs was returned with appropriate coverage.

     

    Hence I suspect the moral of the story is that new studs etc should not be taken for granted ................ for goodness sake check a complete seating is achieved and maintained. Such checking may seem over the top - maybe I'm a sad git, but I do now.

     

    Cheers,

    Mikell.

  16. Thanks Dave,

    I will join this week & thanks for the advise.

     

    The Saint

     

    Hi St Keith,

    Yep - welcome to TR ownership, it's different to Hethel ..........believe me ! I'm sure you'll find great TR enjoyment - you've got the villages along the quiet North West Norfolk coastal roads at no big distance for you from Norwich - Maybe our 4A's will see each other one sunny day - hardly ever see another one around here. !!

    My experience is that the forum is a really useful info exchange, so use it !!

     

    Mike.

  17. The Works TR4 Rally cars had the heat shield to help protect the (then) dynamo from the SAH tubular exhaust. The shield was originally a piece of thin steel plate (you can see it on any of the VC cars), and Neil has replicated this in his offering. Well worth fitting this if you have a tubular (rather than the original cast iron) exhaust system, whether you have a dynamo or alternator.

    Ian Cornish

    Thanks Ian,

    My 4A is on the original cast 'front' end - I'll have another look at fitting the shield, but I suspect I've got something missing to attach it to. That being the case I'll get creative.

    Mike.

  18. Hi Folks,

    engines run on because they are spiteful and as Frank says the answer is to give them a good jamming - put it in 2nd and let the clutch out (gently)

    However here is a funny thing - if the engine is going through one of its spiteful periods then I turn the ignition key to turn off the ignition

    very slowly and hey presto no run on. You think I'm mad - well thats not new, the wife would agree but it does seem to work.

    It could also be down to chance and it wasn't going to run on at that point anyway.

    Give it a go and give some feedback!!!

     

    Roger

     

    Hi all,

    thanks for the thoughts - I never thought of a "contrived stall", but I see your points one and all. I'll probably try the highest octane approach first coupled with a slightly lower tickover. Failing that it'll be different rated plugs - and if not it'll be 'stall time'. If those measures fail I guess it'll be anti run-on valve time. I'll post a follow up in a couple weeks time assuming the weather has enabled a good few miles.

     

    Mikell.

  19. Mike,

     

    Ian's comments make sense, but I would still like to retain the thicker belt so it would mean finding a larger diameter fan belt, however as you have successfully done the complete mod, can you advise details on the following ;

     

    What make and model alternator did you fit?

     

    Did the alternator come with a smaller pulley to suit the original fan belt section size?

     

    Did you use the original dynamo belt or was a new fan belt with a larger diameter required?

     

    What was the bracketry that you obtained for mounting the alternator to the block?

     

    Regards, Richard

     

    Richard,

    The alternator itself is Revington part number RTR8168 which is 17ACR rating. I had no idea at all what rating to go for, but Revington got me to talk through on the 'phone what electrics I had on the car - and then told me which alternator I needed. They got their analysis right because it has served me a treat since being fitted.

    Their fitting kit is a 'must', and I handed it together with the alternator to a local auto electrics firm to fit - with no problem at all. The alternator came without a new front pulley as it uses the dynamo transplanted 'old' front pulley. Instructions on how to transfer it from the dynamo to the alternator come with the alternator packaging. Similarly there are detailed fitting instructions for the full item. I've used the same belt thas was already on there - as I recall my local auto people said that to change the belt was going to be difficult due to lack of space between the bottom pulley and the cross strutt (not sure what its real name is, but it sits right beneath the fan pulley ?). If it would help I can fax the fitting instructions through to you ? (sad git I still have them on file !!).

    The spacing between the back of this alternator and my exhaust manifold is about 2.5 or 3.0 inches at the closest point. I'm hoping that spacing will be sufficient to avoid cooking - but I'm contemplating using exhaust wrap just in case. One point to note is that Revington supply an aluminium sheet as a heat shield to fit to the manifold - however I've never figured out how to attach it - so I haven't !

     

    Regards,

    Mike.

  20. Having read Roy Deal's problem with run -on my first thought was ' what about the top end'. Surely run on is more likely to be caused by carbon build up on the valves and/or over heating than carburation?

    I had a similar problem with my 4A & tried moving to BP7ES plugs to see if cooler plugs would help & ended up with a black sticky mess where the gap should be & the engine still ran on!

    While I can still get the odd occurance of running-on the problem seemed to improve dramatically when I de-coked the head and fitted a Phoenix sports exhaust with tubular manifold. Not only did I notice a big improvement in performance and response but the engine definitely seemed to breath better and the run-on all but disappeared.

    Could it be that the whole engine just ran cooler as the exhaust gases escaped quicker?

    Thoughts please.

    Hi,

    Interesting. I've had run-on problems for some time on my 4A, and wondered if de-coke etc might help. This winter I've 'gone unleaded' in any event - and she still runs on, albeit not so much. Hence I read the TRaction article with great interest. I'm already on optronic ignition, so am guessing that the combination of "new" head and the ignition shouldn't be contributing to the problem. Interestingly, I'd previously found that switching on the (manually operated) extra cooling fan shortly before ignition switch-off helped to reduce the run-on. Hence I'm leaning toward the temparature and cooling notion. I also run with stainless exhaust. One point that I'd really like help with please ....... spark plugs. I'm currently on NGK BP6 HS (as fitted at service by TR specialists of national renown). However the talk seems to centre around using ES not HS. Is that likely to be the issue ? However, from the NGK website the ES plugs seem to be about 6mm deeper than the HS - if I convert to ES are they likely to experience a painful meeting with my pistons, or cause any other grief ???

     

    My peer group wisdom will be greatly appreciated please ?

  21. If you intend to fit a TR7-type alternator with the original wide belt, you are going to find it difficult to get the belt onto the pulley, even with the alternator rammed hard against the engine block (i.e. with the bolt in the adjuster arm completely removed). I managed to find a slightly longer, wide, belt, but it was old stock and I couldn't obtain a spare. Far better to do the job properly - convert to narrow pulleys and an internally notched belt. You'll be amazed how much extra space there seems to be at the front of the engine, and how easy it is to get the belt onto the pulleys.

    Ian Cornish

    Hi,

    Possibly a bit late, but I had much the same issue last summer when I severley cooked my dying 4A dynamo. I decided to go 'alternator' at that time, but was definite about wanting to keep the original fat belt. As part of loads of re-searching I spoke to Revington (very helpful), and I bought their alternator with separate conversion kit which my local 'man in the garage' fitted. Ok, it probably wasn't the cheapest route, but it was easy, and since then everything has been fine. :rolleyes:

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