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Everything posted by Mikell

  1. It looks like my ancient battery charger has decided to call it a day, and I've been looking at the various types of chargers and conditioners advertised on the internet. Confusion abounds.........so does anyone have experience to offer as to which is a good buy to support a 4a battery (which is now 7 years old) please ?
  2. Hi Paul, I too had the same problem as you, and with cause same / similar as Steve has outlined. In my case the rear wheel started knocking loudly with no prior warning at about 40 mph. Handling went well wrong, and I slowed to a standstill without daring to brake. On roadside investigation, the rear wheel was unbelievably loose even by me just 'hand wobbling' the tyre top. On removing the wheel, 2 of the studs were 50% undone .........the other 2 had sheared off completely. The RAC low loader man then arrived, and was amazed that I hadn't had a more unfortunate event. Just the day before I had been "challenging the national speed limits" - say no more, I suspect I was very lucky. The 4a had only a couple of weeks previously been serviced by a recognised TR specialist including fitting of 2 new half shafts together with new studs etc. The specialist subsequently examined the remains and after close examination declared a 'bad batch' of studs wherein "the camber on the shoulders were adrift by a miniscule amount". This poor seating apparently allowed the studs to loosen - with the results as previously outlined. The original studs were then re-fitted, and no further problems either of wheel loosening or of trouser soiling have been experienced. I understand the 'rogue batch' studs was returned with appropriate coverage. Hence I suspect the moral of the story is that new studs etc should not be taken for granted ................ for goodness sake check a complete seating is achieved and maintained. Such checking may seem over the top - maybe I'm a sad git, but I do now. Cheers, Mikell.
  3. Thanks Ian, My 4A is on the original cast 'front' end - I'll have another look at fitting the shield, but I suspect I've got something missing to attach it to. That being the case I'll get creative. Mike.
  4. Hi, Interesting. I've had run-on problems for some time on my 4A, and wondered if de-coke etc might help. This winter I've 'gone unleaded' in any event - and she still runs on, albeit not so much. Hence I read the TRaction article with great interest. I'm already on optronic ignition, so am guessing that the combination of "new" head and the ignition shouldn't be contributing to the problem. Interestingly, I'd previously found that switching on the (manually operated) extra cooling fan shortly before ignition switch-off helped to reduce the run-on. Hence I'm leaning toward the temparature and cooling notion. I also run with stainless exhaust. One point that I'd really like help with please ....... spark plugs. I'm currently on NGK BP6 HS (as fitted at service by TR specialists of national renown). However the talk seems to centre around using ES not HS. Is that likely to be the issue ? However, from the NGK website the ES plugs seem to be about 6mm deeper than the HS - if I convert to ES are they likely to experience a painful meeting with my pistons, or cause any other grief ??? My peer group wisdom will be greatly appreciated please ?
  5. Hi, Possibly a bit late, but I had much the same issue last summer when I severley cooked my dying 4A dynamo. I decided to go 'alternator' at that time, but was definite about wanting to keep the original fat belt. As part of loads of re-searching I spoke to Revington (very helpful), and I bought their alternator with separate conversion kit which my local 'man in the garage' fitted. Ok, it probably wasn't the cheapest route, but it was easy, and since then everything has been fine.
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