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HowardB

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Posts posted by HowardB

  1. On 4/15/2024 at 9:29 PM, steve redway said:

    Today I have pinned down where the fault might be. 

    Both the oil pressure switch and ignition circuitry are devoid of their +ve power. This is normally fed from the ignition switch in the run position. Also on this circuit is the heater blower and seat belt dash light, both of which work and illuminate correctly. Therefore it is possible that the 12v common point as I have highlighted in the attached drawing has failed. If it is the commoning of 6 white wires of which 2 of them (the ignition and oil switch) are open circuit.

    Which leaves a number of questions: Where is this 12v white commoning point? Could it be on the back of FS 15/16 and FS 19/20? Could it be deep in the loom somewhere under the dash? Does any one have a spare TR8 looming knocking around to look at? Finally did Mark Grinnall rewire those modified TR7s with new TR8 looms?

    All questions we may never know the answers to.................

     

     

     

    Steve,

    A couple of questions:

    1) Does the seat belt warning light work? This is fed from the same point as the feed to the ignition ballast feed.

    2) The +ve feed to the oil pressure switch also feeds the other warning lights on the instrument cluster, so do they work?

    You may have more than one fault which is confusing to say the least - I had similar issues on my TR7 V8 fitted with the Pirana electronic ignition and the original Rover V8 ballast resistor box, so may be able to assist.

    Cheers

    Howard

  2. On 4/13/2024 at 5:49 PM, RobH said:

    There are standard wiring diagrams here, drawn by Howard Beans who says

    "I am issuing theses drawings under an open source license so they can be freely copied and modified subject to any copies or modified versions being issued under the same conditions.": 

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1THmHA5ukOA6SAIYevH5_4eUko4JXp-En/view

     

    Beans is one of the TR7 experts but did not create them.  They are my copyright (see licence box on bottom right of each sheet) and are issued under the GNU free documentation licence which grants permission to copy/distribute and/or modify them.

    Hope they are of some use.

    Cheers

    Howard Brissenden

  3. The photo shows the location of the adjustment knobs on the instrument panel for a late '81 model, however my TR7V8 conversion is different. For the speedo trip reset there is a short flexible bowden cable with a knob clipped in place on the metal frame beneath the instrument cluster. It simply is a push fit on the back of the speedo & in my case doesn't work when its clipped in place so it hangs free - if the previous owner has done the same thing its possible it fallen off & been lost.

    Cheers

    Howard

    04-04-08_1823.jpg

  4. The reset button location depended on which model dash you have - on the later cars it was at the front.

    Replacement of the main beam indicator bulb requires you to remove the section of the dash above the instrument cluster and the cowling around the steering column. Next unplug the various connectors - two electrical connectors and the speedo cable plus remove the small metal can (low fuel light delay) fitted to the top of the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster can then be carefully maneuvered out of the dashboard.

    You can then access the little black bulb holders on the back of the instrument cluster!

    Reassemble the same way but be very careful with the old plastic as it is brittle after all these years.

    Cheers

    Howard

  5. Ronald,

    The majority of TR register forum users are from the UK and the UK/European cars and never had catalytic converters fitted so they run equally well on leaded or unleaded fuel. The cars that did have catalytic converters were those exported to the USA to meet Federal emission standard, so the answer depends on which country you are in.

    Howard

  6. Sheet 3 of my attached drawings gives the detailed circuit and resistances of the various components. Hope this helps & look forward to seeing your car at Knebworth with a fully working fuel gauge.

    Howard

    PS I drove my new replacement Tr7 V8 with totally unknown fuel consumption on the RBRR without a fuel gauge and during the fuel strike a couple of years back.

    1981 TR7 DHC Wiring Diagram Rev 7 03_2023.pdf

  7. It can be quite difficult to get all the air out, so I made a funnel by cutting down a 2l drink bottle & wrapping the thread with PTFE tape to form a seal when pushed into the header tank filler cap hole. I then overfill the header tank and squeeze the hoses until bubbles stop coming out while topping up with additional coolant if necessary. 

    Once you are happy with this, replace the cap and drive the car as usual. Any excess coolant in the header tank will be discharged onto the road via the vent pipe when its hot & the level must always be above the header tank low level warning sensor.

    (If you are not sure if this sensor is working, first turn on the ignition and it should illuminate for a few seconds before going out, then disconnect the wire to the sensor from the header tank and it should come on after a short delay)

    Howard

     

  8. On 2/12/2023 at 6:38 PM, jerrytr5 said:

    If you replace the offside reversing light bulb with a red LED & wire in the fog light you can dispense with the nasty add-ons.

    Jerry

    Its a very neat solution which I considered, but sadly found does not comply with the regulations. There has to be a minimum distance between the brake lights and the fog light ( I can't recall the figure) which this elegant soloution does not meet.

    H

  9. The two rear foglamps fitted underneath the bumper are original Triumph parts. If you haven't got one its worthwhile getting a copy of the free Rimmers TR7/TR8 catalogue which includes a lot of very useful drawings.

    The wiring should be installed for the front fog lights, but they are not a standard fittment

    Howard

  10. PS The copyright is just to ensure that it stays in the Public Domain so everyone is welcome to copy, modify and redistribute it with the same conditions. I created the drawings as a basis for a diagram for my own modified car so I can keep track of the changes and not end up with a mess of untraceable wiring ^_^

  11. Having looked it up on Wikidepia the original wheel balancing system was the Merrill Wheel-Balancing System which was the world's first electronic dynamic wheel-balancing system. It was invented in 1945.

    Before Merrill's invention, all wheel-balancing for automobiles, trucks, etc., required removal of the wheel from the vehicle. Most required some form of static balancing without wheel rotation, which was slow and error-prone.

    Merrill's invention balanced wheels while still mounted to the vehicle, by spinning them at high speed and electronically analyzing the vibrations to trigger a stroboscope. Technicians could then determine where balancing weights should be added.

    From the TR7 standpoint this type of system balances both the wheel & the hub at the same time. Almost all modern systems only balance the wheel & not the hub which is where the issue comes with our cars. 

  12. The traditional soloution was to balance the steel wheels on the car, but the necessary equipment is not easily available. However I discovered that swapping to MGF alloy wheels solves the problem.

     

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