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Everything posted by johnw

  1. Hi, do you have electronic ignition fitted. I had a similar situation whilst sitting in traffic. Found the electronic ignition to be faulty. Went back to points, seems ok now. Regards John
  2. Just a thought, could it be a bit of play in the diff? I think the movement is to easy to be the wheel splines. I'm in the process of fitting CV shafts to my TR6, so fingers crossed. John
  3. Hi Mike, you need to make a small mounting plate, I used 2mm aluminium. Firstly I removed the steel insert and drew round the outer profile onto a piece of 3mm hardboard. Cut this out and drill the two mounting holes and a 20mm hole in the centre. Fit the fastener to this and fix back into the surrey frame. You can then juggle this around untill you are happy with the position. Once happy you can use this as a template to mark out the aluminium, I then covered this with vinyl to blend in better. The pins are more tricky. They are M6 so I ran a 1/4 UNF die down them, but because M6 is smaller than 1/4" they are not a good fit into the rear bar. I have bought some 1/4 UNF SS bolts and in the process of making some new pins. Hope this helps. John
  4. Bought a couple of these click fasteners as Andy suggested and they work a treat. Much easier to fit than the thumb screws and look quite neat from the inside too. I've already carried out the header rail mod but I used a late Spitfire header rail. With these two mods fitting the Surrey top is much quicker and more secure. Thanks for the heads up Andy. John W
  5. That's a shame, but thanks for the info John. Regards, Another John
  6. What size are they John, how many spokes? Would they be OK for a TR6? Thanks John.
  7. Hi Sean, sorry for the late reply. I have a 1972 TR6 with a 0.70 bore MC. The original Girling unit had a 80mm push rod, the TRW unit that I replaced it with has a 74mm push rod. After fitting the TRW unit the clutch did not release. In the end I made an adjustable push rod and all is now working as it should. Regards John
  8. johnw

    Fuel Pump Woes

    Hi iani, there is some debate as to whether copper plug leads should be used with these electronic ignitions. I changed to copper in 2017 and have had 2 electronic units fail, may be coincidence, but have gone back to points and kept the copper leads. Worth checking before you damage your other ignition system. Regards John
  9. johnw

    Fuel Pump Woes

    Hi iani, I had a similar problem to you and found that the Pertronix system had failed even though appeared to test ok. In the end I re fitted the old points system and it has run fine ever since. Give it a go if you can. If you search for one of my posts "electronic ignition" you can read the whole sorry tale. Good Luck John
  10. Thanks for the offer Z320, I've ordered some bits off Ebay to make one. Will keep you posted. Also thanks to collin3511 for your input. John W
  11. Hi Roger, if you follow your link you will see that there are in fact two item 37 !!!. One is as you say, the other is LH and adjustable by the look of it. Many thanks for your help. Just found one on the Revington site but no pictures. ( I like pictures) John W
  12. Thanks Roger, did not realise it was adjustable. Any idea why it says LH drive, could it be a different length than a RH drive unit. Thanks John W
  13. Can you buy or has any one made a clutch MC push rod ? John W
  14. I think you may be right DaveN and I will have a better look over the winter. I'm pretty sure it's not an earth problem. Certainly your voltage is much better than mine but it sounds as though your starter is cranking slower than mine. First stop will be the starter which is the re conditioned original, all be it 30 years ago but not many miles. At the moment it runs fine on points so will wait for the weather to turn. Went out in it today and ran like a train. Many thanks for your input John
  15. Thanks both for the info. John
  16. Yes Stuart, lesson learned (even at my age) As a matter of interest do you use a dwell meter to check the points gap? Also the timing is 11deg BTDC static. With a 7deg cam inside am I correct in assuming that max advance using a strobe would be 18deg. Many thanks John
  17. Hi, Spoke to Martin Jay who said 9.5v when cranking may not be enough to trigger electronic unit. Bought a new battery which drops to about 10.7v when cranking but with no luck. Fed up now, so will run on points system until my enthusiasm returns. Many thanks to everyone. John.
  18. Hi Chris, Thanks for that. I did suspect a bad earth at first. When I did a test there is zero ohms resistance. But just in case I used my jump leads to create another earth from the battery to the engine with no improvement. I'll have another look though. Many thanks John
  19. Hi JOhn, When cranking the engine I have approx 9.5v at the coil and the car will not start. If I attach my small m/c battery to the coil with the ignition wire STILL ATTACHED it will not start. If I attach my m/c battery to the coil but REMOVE the ignition wire the car starts. Although the battery seems fine and turns the engine over easily I am wondering if it cannot maintain enough power to the electronic ignition whilst turning the engine over. Its doing my head in! Once again many thanks to all who have tried to help. John
  20. Hi JOhn, You are quite right about my original problem which I still do not understand, but since then I have charged the battery to about 12.9v, with no luck getting the electronic system to work. With the car running at 1000rpm my battery shows 13.8v which I assume is what the alternator is charging at. Many thanks for your input. John
  21. Hi every one, just an update on progress (or not). Spoke to Martin Jay who sent me some instructions on how to check the Pertronix module. Low and behold the module is ok but does not work on the car. After much faffing about I disconnected the ignition lead from the coil and connected a small 12v m/c battery, Well I never the car starts! Re fit the ignition lead and remove the small battery and it carries on running. When I check the voltage to the coil whilst turning the starter motor voltage drops to below 10v, is this normal. I am wondering if the electronic unit will not work at this low voltage. Car still runs fine on old points system so is this more tolerant of low voltage during starting? Thanks for looking John
  22. Hi Z320, Not sure what you mean by "ignition switch" but why would the points work but not the electronic units? Many thanks John
  23. Hi Mal, When I restored my TR6 I made a wheeled stand that the body shell sat on above the chassis. This allowed everything to stay in the garage when not being worked on but allowed the shell to be wheeled out of the way when needed. If you take the screen frame off the body shell is not that high. To remove the body I used a block and tackle. Brace the shell well before you remove it. Good luck. John
  24. Hi Steve, Some posts suggested that I re try the electronic units after everything had cooled down, so that is what I have done. I have spoken to Martin Jay and he seems to think its a bad earth, so that is my next job. John
  25. Hi, thank you to everyone who has taken the time to consider my problem. Today I have re fitted both electronic units with the flamethrower coil and a spare coil that I have. Car will not start, but runs fine when the points system is re fitted. The flamethrower coil is marked 3 ohm which is the correct one for my car, but it actually measures 2.7 ohm on my meter. The spare lucas coil I have measures 4.0 ohm. If the coil is breaking down when hot could this damage the electronic unit? Many thanks for everyone's help. John
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