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Richiep

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  1. Thanks for the further updates gents.. and for the PM Rich.. I’ll get back to you soon on that. Looking at the Rockauto one, I can see a clamp for the outer cable sheath, but can’t see how the inner cable connects to it ..? or maybe I’m not being very bright! Richard
  2. Thanks for the further replies.. Yes, as Iruka says, that switch is for an interior light.. which actually works, despite the back of it being quite wobbly! Stuart, thanks for the Rockauto link.. do you know of anywhere that sells it in the UK? .. and does the thread match, so that you can wind it straight in to the same location? Richard
  3. Hi All, Thanks Roger, Kevin, Stuart for the replies.. all are useful.. I can’t remember exactly when it got disconnected, but was some time (years) ago! Very helpful suggestions.. so will check those out regarding the outer cover and pulling with pliers. the heater knob is in the centre panel (new photo attached).. Do you guys know if the valve spindle rises as you open it, by pulling on the knob.. Should there be resistance.. it seems to move without any! .. also, does this looks like the right valve.. I seem to remember some that are opposite hand where the cab
  4. Hi Roger, Thanks for your reply. It is routed from the right hand side of the H console. It also looks to me as though not enough of the inner cable sticks out from the ‘sheath’, but that could also be a red herring!… as I don’t think it has been cut shorter. another pic attached (from a couple of years ago, but nothing has been changed since then! Richard
  5. Hi All, I’m trying to figure out what the problem is regarding the heater cable on my CR series TR6. The cable that is fitted is, as far as I can tell, the original one and has not been cut or shortened, but doesn’t seem long enough to operate the heater valve. The heater valve itself has been changed (I assume it’s the right one!?). The routing looks ok as far as I can tell too. Attached is a photo with the heater knob fully pushed in towards the dashboard. Any suggestions as to the cause would be much appreciated. Many thanks, Richard
  6. Hi All, I decided to replace the existing original fuel tank, since it seemed to be getting a bit thin in places! I opted for a replacement in mild steel, on the basis that that had lasted 45 years.. and if I get anywhere near that again it would do me..! Having bought it and had it delivered, I removed the old one, and have just found out that the new one (from a major supplier) has two additional connections… One on the top appears to be a redundant connection..but the other seems to be a ‘drain’ connection… which my late model CR series does not have! Since my car never had th
  7. Hi All, I have a CR Series TR6, that should have a black teardrop shaped gear knob.. which has disappeared long ago.. It has been replaced with an aftermarket wooden one, which has developed a split (not long after fitting).. because it had to be screwed on a long way, so it didn’t pull of when selecting reverse..! so I get the feeling it will happen a lot! I was hoping to find an original style one but maybe in steel, rather than plastic, so it would last.. does anyone know if there is anywhere that makes them? if not.. can anyone with an original one post photos.. and dim
  8. Hi All, I'm planning on rebuilding my TR6 seats soon.. covers and foam already bought.. but I was just wondering which glue is best (and readily available in the UK)? looking at the various websites that give instructions, they appear to suggest 3M Super Trim adhesive... but that looks tricky, or get here.. any suggestions would be much appreciated from those that have been here before me! .. quantity would also be helpful.. many thanks in advance Richard
  9. Hi, can anyone point me in the direction of somewhere that can restore an original TR6 steering wheel please? I've looked through the forums and can’t seem to find anyone who has had these restored, and I know many people opt for a ‘similar looking’ Motolita one.. but I’d rather retain the original. The main problem is with the plating on the spokes which has corroded and partly come off. Many thanks in advance.. Richard
  10. Hi gents, Many thanks for all of your replies. Much appreciated. I’ll look into those prices at the suppliers mentioned, and I’m quite certain I will only be buying new rather than reconditioned. More than likely I will opt for the ‘standard’ setup, since it has worked ok for over 40 years, which will do for me! Thanks for the help all.. Regards, Richard
  11. Hi all, After 44 years (the car that is.. Ive done more!) I think its time to review the driveshafts and hubs on my TR6.. especially as I get various rear end noises, clicking, the odd (small) clonk on taking up drive etc.. and when I investigated the driveshafts there is definite play in the sliding joint.. Ive also read various alarming stories about hub failure, and I dont fancy the consequences! The question is... what option to go for.. The car isnt used hard.. no track days etc.. just regular driving, with the occasional overtaking of the slower traffic 😉 :-)
  12. Boogie, I don't know if this is too late.. But I've just checked my 1974 TR6.. Which is original.. Never resprayed.. The black finish goes up under the boot rubber.. But stops a couple of millimetres from the very top of the seam. The wing finish is as Andrew's photo. Hope that helps.. Cheers Richard
  13. Hi again everyone, Many thanks for the replies. A good couple of suggestions there by the look of it, and neither is too far. Will give them both a call.. :-) Thanks again, Richard
  14. Hi all, I've been meaning to get the engine tuned, and injection properly set up on my TR6 for a while!.. Finally started to look around for a 'specialist' place that could do this in the area.. Around Sandhurst, Berkshire.. Or a reasonable distance. Does anyone know of anywhere that can set them up properly, and can recommend? Many thanks in advance.. Richard
  15. Hi gents, Many thanks for the different suggestions to check into.. Will certainly try those, including swapping wheels etc around, to see if the noise moves! Wheels are standard steel ones.. I don't think the hubs have been rebuilt (my Dad owned the car from 1979 until I took it over 4 years ago, so the history is fairly well known). I remember the diff being replaced some time ago, but not many miles on it since.. Probably less than 10,000. Won't take that for granted though, so will jack it up and see what I can find then. Interesting suggestion about the brake springs Ro
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