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  1. Hi All, I'm planning on rebuilding my TR6 seats soon.. covers and foam already bought.. but I was just wondering which glue is best (and readily available in the UK)? looking at the various websites that give instructions, they appear to suggest 3M Super Trim adhesive... but that looks tricky, or get here.. any suggestions would be much appreciated from those that have been here before me! .. quantity would also be helpful.. many thanks in advance Richard
  2. Hi, can anyone point me in the direction of somewhere that can restore an original TR6 steering wheel please? I've looked through the forums and can’t seem to find anyone who has had these restored, and I know many people opt for a ‘similar looking’ Motolita one.. but I’d rather retain the original. The main problem is with the plating on the spokes which has corroded and partly come off. Many thanks in advance.. Richard
  3. Hi gents, Many thanks for all of your replies. Much appreciated. I’ll look into those prices at the suppliers mentioned, and I’m quite certain I will only be buying new rather than reconditioned. More than likely I will opt for the ‘standard’ setup, since it has worked ok for over 40 years, which will do for me! Thanks for the help all.. Regards, Richard
  4. Hi all, After 44 years (the car that is.. Ive done more!) I think its time to review the driveshafts and hubs on my TR6.. especially as I get various rear end noises, clicking, the odd (small) clonk on taking up drive etc.. and when I investigated the driveshafts there is definite play in the sliding joint.. Ive also read various alarming stories about hub failure, and I dont fancy the consequences! The question is... what option to go for.. The car isnt used hard.. no track days etc.. just regular driving, with the occasional overtaking of the slower traffic 😉 :-) Im also not keen, from what Ive read, to go for Recon hubs.. I know there are CV upgraded options, but my use doesnt seem to justify the additional expense.. I was considering new hubs (as original) or upgraded ones. And either new (as original) driveshafts, or upgraded ones.. But Im not sure if you can do a mix and match with these? E.g. upgraded Hub, with standard replacement driveshafts? Also.. what UJs would I need..? Any advice from those that have been through this before would be very halpful.. Many thanks in advance.. Richard
  5. Boogie, I don't know if this is too late.. But I've just checked my 1974 TR6.. Which is original.. Never resprayed.. The black finish goes up under the boot rubber.. But stops a couple of millimetres from the very top of the seam. The wing finish is as Andrew's photo. Hope that helps.. Cheers Richard
  6. Hi again everyone, Many thanks for the replies. A good couple of suggestions there by the look of it, and neither is too far. Will give them both a call.. :-) Thanks again, Richard
  7. Hi all, I've been meaning to get the engine tuned, and injection properly set up on my TR6 for a while!.. Finally started to look around for a 'specialist' place that could do this in the area.. Around Sandhurst, Berkshire.. Or a reasonable distance. Does anyone know of anywhere that can set them up properly, and can recommend? Many thanks in advance.. Richard
  8. Hi gents, Many thanks for the different suggestions to check into.. Will certainly try those, including swapping wheels etc around, to see if the noise moves! Wheels are standard steel ones.. I don't think the hubs have been rebuilt (my Dad owned the car from 1979 until I took it over 4 years ago, so the history is fairly well known). I remember the diff being replaced some time ago, but not many miles on it since.. Probably less than 10,000. Won't take that for granted though, so will jack it up and see what I can find then. Interesting suggestion about the brake springs Roger.. Hadn't thought of that one! Will also check the front of car, just in case! Will certainly check the hubs for play.. That's the one that most concerns me! If I track it down I'll post what it is back on here.. Thanks again.. Richard
  9. Hi all, Hopefully someone can help me figure out what a clicking / ticking sound is from the rear suspension..!? Initially I thought it was from the front, but now think it's the rear nearside. It sounds as though I've got a stone in the tyre tread, but there definitely isn't one! Frequency of the sound seems to be similar to wheel rotation speed. Not there 100% of the time as far as I can tell, but more easily noticed when passing a solid object for the sound to bounce off, such as a wall.. If anything it seems more common at the end of a run, rather than at the start.. Any ideas to help me track it down would be appreciated.. I don't want something silly, like a wheel to fall off because I neglected it.. Many thanks in advance.. Richard
  10. Hi All, Thanks for all the replies. Given Tim's experience, I'm glad I didn't go for the repro one! Bruce, I suspected that must have been the case.. with the original being much stiffer. Good to know I wasn't imagining it! I like the idea of getting a stiffer cable fitted, possibly the bicycle gear cable, but not sure I'd be able to do that myself. Looks like the most likely option is the additional springs, either one on the cable wire, or one on the lever arm.. I guess the difficult but is knowing what spring to get..? Any help with that would be appreciated.. Thanks again, Richard
  11. Hi all, Last year I had the choke cable to the Metering unit snap (the one to the inlet manifold was still ok) so I sent it off to have the cables replaced. Got it back and refitted it to the car, and it pulls the lever on the MU fine, but isn't stiff enough to 'push' it back again when I push the choke knob in inside the car. Very frustrating as I need to pop the bonnet and manually move the lever each time when it has warmed enough to put the choke back in! I spoke to the place that fitted the new cables and they have suggested lubricating the cable, which I have done but not for its whole length yet (but plan to do) or to send it back for them to replace it with a 'solid' piano type wire, rather than the stranded one it is now. The new one is more like bicycle brake cable (very flexible), but the original one was still a stranded one, but did seem to be a bit stiffer so it should be able to still be that type? The 'solid' type apparently doesn't have a great bend radius. Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks and regards, Richard
  12. Richiep

    TR6 Heater flap

    Hi all, Thanks for the replies.. Sounds like I need to get under there and take a proper look.. Will check the cable to see if that has seized, or if there are any obstructions.. Thanks again.. And enjoy your trip Mike! Cheers Richard
  13. Hi all, Can anyone advise how to free up the heater direction flap under the dashboard of a TR6 please. I meant to look at this while I had the gearbox out recently, but forgot!.. Not sure how much this is meant to move.. but it moves just a little using the heater knob, but then seems to jam / stop for some reason.. Any suggestions would be very helpful.. Thanks in advance.. Richard
  14. Hi All, I've currently got the gearbox out of my CR series TR6, to try and stop an oil leak.. Hopefully that is cured, but while its out I was planning to replace the standard rear gearbox mounts.. The trouble is I can't seem to get at the nut on the underside! Do I need to remove the whole mounting plate? Whichever way I try and get at a bolt the other side always seems to be inacessible! Maybe I just need to keep trying, but is there a knack to it? It's a standard late CR series overdrive gearbox, not one from a converted saloon, as far as I know. Thanks in advance. Richard
  15. Thanks everyone! That's very helpful info!.. Both with the shopping list, and with what to look out for! Any tips on how best to get the old seal out, and the new one in, without doing any butchering!? I'm hoping the old one hasn't been butchered as the car has been in the family since 1979 (my Dad's car for over 30 years) and I don't remember him having the gearbox worked on... But will see once I get the gearbox out! Thanks again, Richard
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