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  1. jpa

    Brake discs

    Thanks for the advice gents! It was a small burr on the edge of the hub face! I am surprised this has not been noticed and dealt with in the cars previous life as it must have caused quite a bit of 'wobble' under light braking especially. Ground it off and he disc runs a lot smoother now. apologies to Rimmers for any implications made (although the shoes and pads appear to have been 'glued' together by a child). Cheers Paul.
  2. jpa

    Brake discs

    Hi, Having just rebuilt the brakes on my car, the front discs (one especially) appears to have a lot of play when spun as if warped (is this 'run out'). They are new discs from Rimmers but having seen the quality of the pads/shoes they supplied (which do not look top notch to say the least) could I possibly have a set of warped discs? Has anyone else had any bad experiences with 'new' discs? I am aware that I might have a bit of dirt between disc and hub which may be causing this so I will look at this first. Is there anything else that may be causing this which I can check without the aid
  3. jpa

    HELP! Rear brakes

    Thanks for all your help chaps. Sorted now!
  4. jpa

    HELP! Rear brakes

    Hmmm, it sounds like you have only 2 clips, as per a spitfire set up. I have 2 sets of these clips also so dont know whether to use these instead. The TR6 clips (as per the Moss / Rimmers catalogues) show 3 clips in total - a small horseshoe with bent ends and then a large, flat clip (which does not have the pimples you describe) and then a curved 'spring' clip. Have I got the wrong ones or could I use the 'easier' to fit spitfire ones safely instead? The 3 clips/plates are described as follows in parts list :- 37. Spring Plate (cylinder retaining) 38. Distance Washer (boot retain
  5. I am trying to put the rear brakes back together and am wondering if someone could clarify how the cylinder plate/clips go back together. Looking at an expoded diagram, the smaller horseshoe with curved ends goes on first against the backplate, then the 'distance washer' plate with the spring plate on the outside. Can someone confirm this is correct? Is there a 'knack' to putting them all back on in a certain order to put them on in the order above with the handbrake lever on seems almost impossible (am probably missing something really obvious). Any help greatfully received!
  6. Hi I visited my local scrap yard the other day and was gutted to see a perfectly saveable TR7 convertible being delivered on the back of a truck. It did not look too bad apart from the rear of the sills and seemed complete and generally in good nick. If anyone needs any parts or even fancies saving it it is at Brothertons on Bradford Rd, outside Otley, Yorks.
  7. Thanks for the advice chaps. The ones I have are genuine Girling. I may give them a try at some point, after trying the originals first. Having not driven the car yet (it has been in a barn for 7 years, and then some!), I will see how good the brakes are as standard before I put on the big guns! Cheers Paul.
  8. Hi I am in the process of re-building a TVR Vixen (sorry for the intrusion!) which uses brakes from a TR6. On stripping the car, I have found that I have one .7 rear cylinder (as standard) but the other side has a 7/8ths rear cyclinder. I have managed to obtain a second 7/8ths cylinder to match. I believe these may be standard fitment on Morgans and some Sunbeam Alpines. I have read on the web site for a turbo charged TR6 (sorry, not my cup of tea either!) that adding these cyclinders to a TR6 would be a worthwhile upgrade with possibly 50% better rear brakes. See www.turbo-tr6.inf
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