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AGR 441 B

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  1. Had same issue years ago with my 4A and I`m sure it was a tip from Stuart that the TR6 block plug was a perfect replacement, (same thread). Fitted one and used it ever since. John
  2. Final Answer News of a result. Block collected yesterday from small machine shop local to me. Unable to remove the broken UNC thread portion left at the bottom of the deep hole, he drilled down at 12mm stud size to clear the hole. Then followed by tapping the hole for an M16 thread the full depth. He has created a new stud of the same length, and diameter as the original, but with the M16 thread at the bottom end. Leaving the thread on the whole depth has left the clear hole for the stud shaft when installed only approximately 1.5 mm wider than it was. The stud he says is from mater
  3. Stud update. So far sorry to say I have no update, the first machine shop prevaricated for a couple of weeks and after a number of prompts and a further couple of weeks decided, "we have`nt the machine that can do it." This is a business long established, 60 years that I know of, and that I have used several times before. I interpret this as that they can no longer be bothered with small, one off jobs. However they are still happy to do heads, valves, and cranks! The block has now been left at a small one man machine shop very local to me, and from where I have had work in
  4. Evening chaps, thanks for the suggestions and data. All much appreciated and providing a little more confidence there`ll be a solution. The Forum came to the rescue again. The stud was a re- used original stud and went in during a total engine rebuild about 12 years ago. they all went in with a dollop of copper grease at the bottom, and the others came out freely. I think this one may have turned down when torqueing the head and locked against the bottom of the hole. Maybe assisted by some overstressing, earlier in life, it gave up the call to come out this time. I shall be
  5. I`ve got a snapped cylinder head stud in a 4 pot block. The 91/2 ins stud Item 14 on the MOSS Catalogue diagram. Snapped at the top of the UNC thread deep in the block. Machine shop proposes drilling for next higher thread diameter, then making a stepped bespoke stud to avoid any alteration to head. Does any one know what grade metal the studs are made from please? Grateful for any advice, John
  6. My 67 4A has always had a very notchy gearchange. Dismantled the box top and found a mixture of pieces comprising the selector rod detent mechanism. From MOSS catalogue and WM diagrams I deduce 1/2 and 3/4 selectors should have a ball, a spring, a shim and a threaded plug. Two identical set ups. The reverse selector should have a plunger, spring, (different to the two others on forward gears); a shim and threaded plug. My mixture is illustrated in the attached photos. This includes two different plungers, one flat topped and one very peaky. One on the 1st/2nd rod where a bal
  7. Thanks for all the info chaps. Fascinating array of grease guns Marco, (envy abound comes to mind). Sole tool I have is a Wanner with about 14mm jaws which has served my home maintenance for some 60 odd years. To save withdrawing the 1/2 shafts every couple of years to crank the joint open for access, I think an investment at Rimmers, and an open eye at the auto-jumbles for one of those handy small push type guns is called for. John
  8. Supplementary problem with UJs. Currently fitted with Hardy Spicer UJs, the short grease nipples on the prop. and 1/2 shafts are too deep to get the head of the grease gun in. A spare UJ carried for emergencies has a longer accessible nipple. (see photo). Does anyone know if the standard grease nipple listed as 7H3858 by MOSS is a long one like this or the short ones currently fitted to my 4A. Alternatively, does anyone know the size and thread type or a source of long ones that can be used to replace the inaccessible ones. Thanks for any info you can supply, John
  9. The wing to sill fixing bolts standard in fitting kits tend to rust quickly introducing the dreaded tin worm to a vulnerable area. Listed as MOSS part UL 2705, What size are they, and does anyone know a source for stainless replacements? John
  10. Yes Chris, noticed that if you let the float hang right down when out of the chamber, it tends to stick against the needle body as you lift. Checking the petrol level in the chamber after normal running its just over half full which I think would mean the float sits quite high and should be above the sticking range. I had noticed this effect in the many times I`ve had it out but the only way to alter it was to bend the float hinge which I thought rather risky. I`ve checked that the float levels and consequently fuel levels are the same for front and back so left them as bought at prese
  11. possibly the needle valve in the float chamber sticking because of a bit of dirt got through. Try a strong tap on the top of the chamber first, might dislodge it. If not top off chamber, valve in the chamber top, give it a good blow through and try it back on. Mysterious misfire John
  12. Evening all, sorry about delay but you can guess I`ve been busy working on it and I`ve got the good news tonight. With a different head back on it was still the same so just started working through the routine items again from the start. However my brother in law, a retired trained mechanic joined in on Saturday and detected that although No. 2 was not pushing at all, No. 1 was very weak. Making it more logical that the front carb, serving them both was the culprit. Off with the feed from the pump and a strong jet of fuel was ejected as the residual pressure in the line from the pu
  13. still on SU carbs but have checked fuel flow several times. Priming with the lever, and just turning ignition key. Fuel gushing out at feed pipe to front carb. 1lb. jam half full in seconds. Trouble did start immediately after a fill up. Straight away I drained 75% out and topped up from another station to dilute the remainder. Since then I`ve done 400 miles in bits and pieces while it was intermittent, and topped up again, but when it went to No. 2 permanently out I`m stuck in the garage. Got a different head back yesterday, torqueing it down in stages, still got the plumbing etc
  14. Pete, done that on both carbs, but that would put two cylinders off and it was consistently only N0. 2. Put a different head on this morning. I`ll put all the ancillaries back over the next couple of days and see if its the same. John
  15. Thanks for all ideas, they`re all appreciated. I`ve had dizzy out and in several times to put in new parts from Dizzy Doctor and swap rotors points and condensers in the early days of the issue while looking for this. The 1,3,4,2 sequence is well and truly implanted in my head and the N0. 1 TDC spark and pully marks definitely in correct synchronisation. As is the 4 deg BTDC. No mistake in connecting to the crank and cam. Manifold water pipe to heater is a stainless relatively new one and doesn't appear to have any cracks. Quite a few in our Group are pondering over this in moral support w
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