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AGR 441 B

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  1. The wing to sill fixing bolts standard in fitting kits tend to rust quickly introducing the dreaded tin worm to a vulnerable area. Listed as MOSS part UL 2705, What size are they, and does anyone know a source for stainless replacements? John
  2. Yes Chris, noticed that if you let the float hang right down when out of the chamber, it tends to stick against the needle body as you lift. Checking the petrol level in the chamber after normal running its just over half full which I think would mean the float sits quite high and should be above the sticking range. I had noticed this effect in the many times I`ve had it out but the only way to alter it was to bend the float hinge which I thought rather risky. I`ve checked that the float levels and consequently fuel levels are the same for front and back so left them as bought at present. I was thinking that getting some of the `Grose`Valves, (I think that`s what they are called), that use a ball not a needle may solve that. General opinion seems to be that they are not very good though. You have however identified the one effect outstanding that still bothers me Done about 100 miles since fixing so far. John
  3. possibly the needle valve in the float chamber sticking because of a bit of dirt got through. Try a strong tap on the top of the chamber first, might dislodge it. If not top off chamber, valve in the chamber top, give it a good blow through and try it back on. Mysterious misfire John
  4. Evening all, sorry about delay but you can guess I`ve been busy working on it and I`ve got the good news tonight. With a different head back on it was still the same so just started working through the routine items again from the start. However my brother in law, a retired trained mechanic joined in on Saturday and detected that although No. 2 was not pushing at all, No. 1 was very weak. Making it more logical that the front carb, serving them both was the culprit. Off with the feed from the pump and a strong jet of fuel was ejected as the residual pressure in the line from the pump was released. Taking the top off the front float chamber it was empty obviously because the needle valve was stuck shut trapping the fuel in the feed pipe. The needle valves have been replaced twice over the past few weeks, first with a set I have carried in my spares for a while, (red teflon tipped), and then with a new set, (grey Teflon tipped), bought a couple of weeks ago to restock the spares pool. The plastic floats have been checked time and time again and have no leaks or defects. Why it should repeatedly stick is still a mystery, however I have changed the valve unit again and swapped the floats front to back in case it was the plastic float to blame. Its running fine on four now and went round my local test route with a 1 in 5 hill, junctions and traffic lights without hesitation. Just got to get it tuned back to normal again now. So why on previous occasions did the float chamber have fuel in? We have a possible theory. When the float chamber floods its usually due to the valve sticking open and traditionally a bit of tapping on the top was a common fix to disturb it when it returned to normal. Over the past few weeks when I started applying tools to release the feed then unscrew the top, this may have been sufficient to simulate the old tapping dodge, especially with the fuel under pressure trying to open it. Then by the time I got the top off it had been filled when I was working releasing the feed pipe. Very thin theory I know but I can`t think of anything else. Similarly I can`t understand how you can replace the needle valve twice with new and not fix the problem. Does this new petrol make Teflon sticky? Maybe I should hone the old brass ones in to face the seats and put them back? Anyway, saga is over. Thanks for all your support, A happy John now.
  5. still on SU carbs but have checked fuel flow several times. Priming with the lever, and just turning ignition key. Fuel gushing out at feed pipe to front carb. 1lb. jam half full in seconds. Trouble did start immediately after a fill up. Straight away I drained 75% out and topped up from another station to dilute the remainder. Since then I`ve done 400 miles in bits and pieces while it was intermittent, and topped up again, but when it went to No. 2 permanently out I`m stuck in the garage. Got a different head back yesterday, torqueing it down in stages, still got the plumbing etc to put back. John
  6. Pete, done that on both carbs, but that would put two cylinders off and it was consistently only N0. 2. Put a different head on this morning. I`ll put all the ancillaries back over the next couple of days and see if its the same. John
  7. Thanks for all ideas, they`re all appreciated. I`ve had dizzy out and in several times to put in new parts from Dizzy Doctor and swap rotors points and condensers in the early days of the issue while looking for this. The 1,3,4,2 sequence is well and truly implanted in my head and the N0. 1 TDC spark and pully marks definitely in correct synchronisation. As is the 4 deg BTDC. No mistake in connecting to the crank and cam. Manifold water pipe to heater is a stainless relatively new one and doesn't appear to have any cracks. Quite a few in our Group are pondering over this in moral support which I appreciate but as yet nothing revealed. No marks in the sooty head to suggest valve seat slippage, and we`ve watched the valves and rockers operating for sequence, distance moved and sticking with no result. Everything down in the block looks normal so I`m going to try a spare head on it and build it up again to see if the misfire is still there. John
  8. Took the head off today which revealed nothing amiss. Valves are moving freely, seating faces are good and even. Springs aren't broken, no seating issues, cam follower faces in good order. Looking down after removing the followers the lobes on the camshaft for the misbehaving cylinder are smooth and no scrapes or chips out of them. Nothing on the head, no cracks, exhaust valve seats seem still tight. No sign that there may have been recent slippage. Guides still tight and nothing in the ports that could cause trouble. In removing all the fuel lines etc found no blockages. I remain totally mystified. Time to pause, accept some downtime and do some strategy thinking on where to go next. May all your TR troubles be little ones, (this one probably is but its finding the b-gger ! Regards, John
  9. As Rob says I began to doubt that this could be so elusive so popped inlet manifold back this morning and situation same. With push on leads swapped lead off No. 2 onto No. 3 and 3 lead onto 2. Pulling the lead of and on 2 its still dead. Took the whole set off and put second dizzy cap and five different leads on. Still same. Changed the plug for one from another cylinder that is firing. Still same. This engine has been running OK for several years. Did Scottish 500 including Applecross pass last year. When trouble started about 8 weeks ago it was on Accuspark electronic. Took that off and tried second Accuspark that I carry as spare. No luck so I put points back. No luck. Then I changed condensers twice then changed rotor arms, the red ones from Dist Doc. Got new base plates from Dist Doc in case it was the base earth that flexes with advance. No luck. have had all rocker gear off and on several times during Compression testing, so clearances set before and checked again this morning. Nothing apparent. Push rods are in same position in tubes as other cylinders don`t look bent, movement vertically seems same and valve sequence, induction, compression, power, exhaust seems OK. Thinking may be broken valve spring but can`t see anything, broken cam follower perhaps but no noises or bits in oil. Gradually coming round to head off again. Desperately, desperate John now. (I`ve missed 4 show club runs now and another coming up on Sunday.) Enjoy your TRing chaps
  10. Hello again chaps, I haven't got the PCV system on. I had the single pipe from the rocker cover into the Y fire trap and a pipe to each of two fat mesh filters as on early 4s. Shown on page 47 of latest MOSS catalogue. During the past few weeks I`ve taken it off and fed the rocker cover to a long pipe down to open air. At present I`ve taken everything off to watch movement of the carb pistons, (which move in parallel showing even suction), and plugged the manifold balance pipe outlet that supplies the brake servo so that is out of play. Yes, tried the pulling choke out technique which sometimes enables you to catch it when cold but its running so bad now it doesn't seem to make any difference. Took N0. 2 plug out after a few minutes running to see if it was wet but wasn't. to be fair we`ve got a big fat spark there even when the cylinder is off so the fuel might be burnt off anyway. To compare we took lead off No.3 to stop that one for comparison but it was dry as well so we didn't get any help from that test. Taking the head off spare engine today while I do some more thinking but I think its going to be a head swap. Thanks so far, John
  11. just taken carbs and inlet manifold off. Nothing unusual to see. Ports all clear in manifold and head. Nothing hanging around on top of the valves so far as I can see. Manifold to head gasket shows nice clamping impression and no leaks round edges. Roger, its the original cast iron manifold with thick flange and clamps OK. No sign of leakage and even colour on all four ports. Graeme, got two different dizzy caps, one MOSS unit with all push on five silicon HT leads, one new original Lucas style with copper leads screw held in cap. New NGK plug caps fitted to this one in this exercise and coil link and plug links swapped around from plug to plug and plug to coil to make sure its not a lead. Inside caps both clean as a whistle. Going to start stripping head off my spare engine tomorrow as I fear its a head off job again.
  12. Thanks Chris, ran for a few minutes with rocker cover off to watch for valve problems and all on 2 seemed to be operating OK. I`ll check the inlet manifold, perhaps I haven't tightened those bally butterfly clamps enough when I rebuilt it. Was a new gasket in there though. Dave, should have mentioned it runs smooth for a few seconds when I start the engine before it drops to No 2 totally off. so I think valve timing is OK. I`ll check valve positions on No 1 against timing marks to be sure. Niall, timing chain wasn't changed in the rebuild but there`s no noises or valve inconsistency apparent. Alan, blown through carb jets from both directions several times and all fuel lines, took tank out on Thursday and renewed all hose connections. A jet would surely put two cylinders out as well do you think? Thanks for your thoughts chaps. I`ll let you know when I get there.
  13. My 4A engine adopted intermittent misfiring and loss of power eight weeks ago. All electrics definitely OK, (3 coils, many new plugs, rebuilt dizzy, swapped electronic for points, several condensers, several red rotor arms, 2 complete HT sets including caps, new dizzy base plates). Despite good compression test, total engine rebuild to reset liner heights, new head gasket, figure of 8 etc. No damage to valves or head faults detected. Carbs rebuilt, new needle valves, floats OK, pistons free. This week misfire became permanent, No. 2 cylinder went out, only running on 3. (Helpful but not helpful I suppose, now I know where but not what !) Compression test shows between 11.5 and 12 bar and no significant difference to the other 3. Several plugs and illuminating plug tester still shows strong spark, all tappets set and checked normal, all valves and springs operating normal and in correct sequence, no loose pushrods. Oil clean as when it went in at Easter, water clear, no bubbles, no overheating, no waxy stuff anywhere, no mechanical noises to indicate a problem. HAS ANYONE ANY IDEAS PLEASE? All suggestions gratefully received, Desperate John
  14. Had a similar problem a few years ago. Good advice from somewhere on the Forum came my aid with advice to change the air valve. These are readily available from the usual suppliers. Problem solved immediately. Best of luck.
  15. Interesting to read your comment. I have a January `67 4A with the same layout. Obtained in `93 when a total strip down was carried out, the offside wing was extremely rotten around the nose area and appeared never to have been off the chassis since manufacture. Also the inner wheel arch has the indent to accommodate the TR5 air-box. Other variations were that the rear valance behind the bumper had the reverse light holes of the 5 blanked off, but was so rotten in `93 it required cutting out. And the chassis mounting holes which were added for the 5 to accept extra chassis brackets on the rear bridge are present. I have assumed that within the first couple of years of manufacture the car suffered a big smash which justified a body replacement and rebuild with the original equipment. (labour was not so expensive then and declaring a "write off" would not be so acceptable) By then only 5 bodies would be available. The chassis was exactly as original 4A although with a few damage kinks and very rotten. Best of luck with your research, John
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