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    1975 TR6, C63, SQ5

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  1. That's great advice - thanks to all of you. I think i'll look into the distributor refurb option first - if there's not much improvement in smoothness or pickup with electronic it might be better to stick with points and just make sure they're in good nick!! cheers, Russell
  2. I have a 75 TR6, UK car running standard fuel injection. Is the consensus to stay with points or move to electronic ignition? I get the simplicity of points (and ease of maintenance on the roadside if needed) - but I'd like to find a simple way of getting more smooth and consistent running and a bit more performance/response. And if the answer is electronic - which is the best setup?
  3. Thanks all. Waldi - thanks for observation on the fixing - hadn't noticed this. It's been like it for decades - no excuse and now I know about it I'll have to get that fixed. Thanks for your help Cheers, Russell.
  4. Hi I had a fuel cavitation problem the other day - second time in 25 years! It was a hot day, the roads were melting but I've driven it through France last year which was much hotter and I had a full tank of fuel. And I've smelt fuel on startup, so think this was related... I thought I'd replace the primary filter incase that was blocked. I ran the fuel pump from cold and found a leak from the pressure release valve pipe that takes fuel to the metering unit. I can't replicate the leak now the system is up to pressure. The jubilee clip around the pipe is tight - and I don't want to over tighten and break into the rubber. Any ideas if the fix it just tightening the clip or a more complicated problem with the valve? Sorry if this is a noddy question...
  5. Thanks everyone - advice much appreciated
  6. Thanks for your help Dave and Roger
  7. Bonnet has been getting harder to open. Replaced the cable - old one was fine on inspection. There's a lot of pressure on the latch for the cable to overcome to release - does the bonnet catch spring become stiffer over time? Will replacing the safety catch/spring unit on bonnet help - or is there a different route I should explore? Any thoughts? Thanks
  8. Alan I'm on South Coast so I've asked the guys at Southern Triumph to take a look to finish tuning the car as I'm running out of time for a trip and work (and lack of skill) is getting in my way! thank again Russell.
  9. Alan Test 1 failed, so must be an air leak Test 2 there was a little suction on cylinders 3-6 but lots on 1 and 2 - so looks like this could be the problem The CR linkage seems different to the one in the brown book and haynes manuals I have and there's more slack than a slack thing there. Noted comments on BL being on drugs when they did this - have many converted to a CP linkage to improve matters? But at least I know where the problem is and can start fettling Thanks everyone for all your input - a massive help! Russell.
  10. one other thought - should the engine timing change from standard given the phoenix stainless exhaust mainfold?
  11. Thanks all - lot's to go on. I'll have a look at the compression and tappet clearances and be more persuasive with the rotor arm. Alan - it souds like you've described the problem and air for cylinders 1 and 2 is a common source. I've taken off the air mainfold and visually inspected the operation of the butterflys and they look consistent across all six pots. I guess it could be in the fine adjustment. The manual says getting the timing and fuel metering right needs to be done first - more investigations required!
  12. Looking for some inspiration! The TR (125 model) has been lumpy, especially on start-up which has been exagerated since fitting a Phoenix manifold - i think the problem was there before-hand. With engine running and insulated pliers took each of the spark plug leads off. Pots 3-6 noticed a cylinder going 'off' but 1 and 2 made no difference. Used a different HT lead on pot 1 and no change - so thought it must be a worn distributor cap/rotor. Replaced the cap (couldn't get the rotor arm off so left it as-is for now), spark plugs, LT and HT leads - but to no avail! I've since tried taking the plug out and leaving in the HT lead and I do have spark on pots 1 and 2 when it arcs to the cylinder block. I've looked at fuel - good pulse coming through the injection pipes and took the injectors out and have a reasonable spray pattern. Might be worth noting that the car is running very rich with plugs sooting which I was going to look at after getting pots 1 and 2 back on-line. Any ideas?
  13. Hi There's nothing wrong with the original Lucas fuel pump (dangerous last words!) fitted but it's been on the car for 41 years. There are a couple of reasons tempting me to change to a 'Bosch type' system 1) Performance/drivability - the car can feel a little sluggish at low revs - some have suggested it is missing although it still sounds smooth enough - which disappears higher up the Rev range 2) reliability - I'm doing first long European trip this year so looking to build in some protection Some say to stick with the original Lucas pump and chucking a spare cheapie Chinese replacement in the boot if I need it is a lot cheaper than an upgrade and unless there's a good performance/drivability benefit I'm tempted to leave alone. Any views on performance/drivability/reliability and which is the best route to go? And do you need the PRV change as well? Thanks
  14. I'm also going through dash re-veneer using teak. The original lacquer is very stubborn - I found the best approach was to use a sharp wide chisel by hand to remove it. Mine had a couple of cracks in the lacquer which gave me the start to chip away using the corner of the chisel to make best progress. The lacquer flys around the shop but didn't take too long once in the groove. This isn't the most sympathetic removal technique and you will probably end up with a couple of small divots or chipped veneer - but if you are replacing anyway it's not a problem.
  15. Thanks for the comments - full manifold it is!
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