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Posts posted by phil3uh
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Hi Neil,
How or why has this happened and more to the point how do I get rid of it, and stop it reoccuring?
Cheers
Phil
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Hi again,
I said the rad was hot, it was at the top where the top hose enters but gets cooler further down. I removed the thermostat at took the car out again with no explosion from the header tank but on my return checked the hoses again and the top one was hot as was the expansion tank but the bottom hose was cold. Has anyone any ideas , are the water pumps prone to failure? It seems strange that I did 30 odd miles in it with no problem two weeks ago then this problem arises out of the blue,
cheers
baffled
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Hi all,
I guess like me you have been out in your car today, unlike me you probably enjoyed yourself. I had bled my non existant clutch and wanted to give it a run to test everything was ok prior to next weeks run. After 4 or 5 miles water started to appear on the passenger side of the screen, after pulling up and opening the bonnet it was obvious that it was coming from the expansion tank. I returned home slowly to look further into it. The top hose was hot as was the pipe to the expansion tank but the bottom hose was cold, however the rad seemed to be hot. As some of you know I have had the head rebuilt last year so am desperately hoping someone can point me to a solution which does not involve head off!!
Cheers
Phil
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WOW,
What a lot of info to digest. I can discount rear trailing arm bushes as I had them replaced along with front and rear shock absorbers together with anti roll bar bushes. I can't swap the front wheels as they have directional tyres on, but could swap front to back. I was running 28 psi on the front and 30 psi on the rear. would increasing the front pressures to 30 psi make a difference?
The tyres are the same across the axle Marshall Matrac FX 205/50R15 86V . I have never used these before so maybe it was a bad tyre choice that has caused this wandering. Just a bit of information this problem occurs on a steady throttle not under acceleration or braking.
Thanks to all who took the time and trouble to reply, I am sure the answer is in there !
Cheers
Phil
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Hi all,
I have purchased some 15" alloy wheels previously fitted to an M*T* shod with 205/50R15 tyres . My car now seems to steer itself on non perfect surfaces. I will be driving along okay then suddenly the car seems to veer slightly off course needing a determined correction to bring it back on line. this does not happen on good smooth surfaces but is non the less very disconcerting when it does. Is this the start of wear in the rack, track rod ends or something else which only manifests itself at present on bad surfaces. Any thoughts?
Cheers
Phil
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Hi all,
As some of you will remember my TR7 had head problems, well they are all behind me now, well nearly. The garage returned the car to me and the car starts easily and runs, but goes like a one legged chicken and will not rev over 4500, this is not what I expected. I spoke to the mechanic and he said there was an ignition problem, apparently my car is fitted with a ballast resistor and I had fitted a new coil, which was 12v ballast type, but after five minutes it became unbearably hot. this he concluded was a breakdown of the resistor, so they loaned me a 12v coil to get the car running. They also used their Autodata info for a TR7 8 valve engine to set the timing.My question to you is two fold, firstly can I leave the defunct ballast resistor alone and fit a 12 Lucas sports coil, and secondly is the timing right ,or is that inhibiting the engine from reving freely as it did prior to the head trouble.Lastly am I right in thinking the ballast resistor is a way of prolonging points life , or is there another reason they are fitted?
Cheers
Phil
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Hi Odd,
Thanks, at least I now know what to do.
Cheers
Phil
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Good morning Odd,
Thanks for the great photos, they are just the sort of help I was hoping for. Is the bottom bracket available or did you make it?
Cheers
Phil
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Thanks Guys,
I think given the cost difference I will use the older stay type. Has anyone got a photo of the position for the bottom mounting bracket and better still anyone got a bracket?
Cheers
Phil
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Hi all,
Just an update on my head gasket woes. As is usual it was not as simple as that, the head was severely corroded around some of the water jackets ,almost touching the combustion chamber bowls, Headmasters at Doncaster are refurbishing it and recommended new valves as the original ones had been ground so deep into the seats that a previous owner/ repairer took an angle grinder to the top of them in order to facilitate valve timing!! They also put the corrosion down to incorrect antifreeze/water ratio, and suggested 60/40 in future.
The rub is I was at the Triumph/MG spares do at Stoneleigh and saw a 16 valve head for sale which I was about to buy for £65 but when I got back to the stall I saw it being put into a plastic bag.The valves and guides cost £193 from Rimmers , a set of valves guides springs stem oil seals and followers cost £190. This is going to be a very expensive head gasket job.
Cheers
Phil
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Hi Simontdo,
I think you mean it should have! as I said I have a block of wood as there is nothing on my boot lid .
Cheers
Phil
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Hi all,
My TR7 has no boot stay, well I have a piece of wood I use , but it's not that good, so my question is as my car is a 1981 it should have an air strut fitted but can I use the earlier type which is like the bonnet prop,and if so has anyone got a spare they would like to sell?
Thanks
Phil
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Hi Andy, I decided to let the garage do the head, and then found out that a sprint engine does not face the stud problem assocciated with the 8 valve engine as they are within the rocker box therefore shielded from the weather as they are splashed with oil.
cheers
Phil
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Hi Andy,
thanks for yourreplies to my posts. I shall check the earth straps as you suggest, but think I will pass the head job to the garage!
Cheers
phil
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Hi All,
As well as my head gasket woes since the car ejected the contents of the cooling system out of the header tank my nearside headlamp refuses to come out to play preferring to illuminate the road under the car instead of in front. Can anyone give me advice as how to track down the possible causes?
Cheers
Phil
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Hi all,
Has anyone done a head gasket on a sprint engine recently, if so can you let me know if the head studs should be replaced and what if any problems I should look out for?
Thanks
Phil
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Hi Ian,
I have ordered a new distributor, rotor arm and a set of ht leads from Rimmers today, an expense but at least there is 20% off in November. I hope that sorts it!
Cheers
Phil
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Hi all, My TR7 has a sprint engine fitted , by a previous owner, and starts easily and runs like a train until is gets warmed up the it starts missing, as some of you will know I replaced the coil, points , condensor and plugs but the problem remains.Has anyone any more ideas, I think I shall bite the bullit and order a set of HT leads as I can only assume they may be breaking down, if that is possible. I can' t imagine it being
the rotor arm or cap , but can it? Perhaps someone can tell me,
Cheers
Phil
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Fantastic, Tony Pond was great in that car/
:)
Cheers
Phil
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Success at last. The dolomite sprint info ntc sent me helped us in timing the engine after I stupidly removed the distributor without marking its position and noting the rotor position. A hard lesson learnt, thanks to all who offered advice and especially ntc for the practical help, so onward and upward!!
Cheers
Phil
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Hi Neil, you have a pm,
Cheers
Phil
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Hi Rob thanks , the coil I bought is 12v so I will try it , so is that from the pos on the coil to the pos on the battery?
Cheers
Phil
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Hi Neil I dont know how to hard wire the coil, can you talk me through it?
Cheers
Phil
TR6 Spax adjustable rear shocks and mounting brackets for swap or sale
in For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
Posted
Hi Stephen,
I dont have any lever arms to swap but am interested in your brackets so if you want you sell them kindly get in touch.
cheers
Phil