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phil3uh

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Posts posted by phil3uh

  1. Hi all,

    Just saw a TR6 on Ebay for £8500 item number 131946287052. This is a scam, the guy states he has owned this for 8 years ,yet a check with HPI shows it changing hands in December 2015. If it looks too good to be true it probably is!!

    Cheers

    Phil

  2. Hi again,

    I said the rad was hot, it was at the top where the top hose enters but gets cooler further down. I removed the thermostat at took the car out again with no explosion from the header tank but on my return checked the hoses again and the top one was hot as was the expansion tank but the bottom hose was cold. Has anyone any ideas , are the water pumps prone to failure? It seems strange that I did 30 odd miles in it with no problem two weeks ago then this problem arises out of the blue,

    cheers

    baffled

  3. Hi all,

    I guess like me you have been out in your car today, unlike me you probably enjoyed yourself. I had bled my non existant clutch and wanted to give it a run to test everything was ok prior to next weeks run. After 4 or 5 miles water started to appear on the passenger side of the screen, after pulling up and opening the bonnet it was obvious that it was coming from the expansion tank. I returned home slowly to look further into it. The top hose was hot as was the pipe to the expansion tank but the bottom hose was cold, however the rad seemed to be hot. As some of you know I have had the head rebuilt last year so am desperately hoping someone can point me to a solution which does not involve head off!!

    Cheers

    Phil

  4. WOW,

    What a lot of info to digest. I can discount rear trailing arm bushes as I had them replaced along with front and rear shock absorbers together with anti roll bar bushes. I can't swap the front wheels as they have directional tyres on, but could swap front to back. I was running 28 psi on the front and 30 psi on the rear. would increasing the front pressures to 30 psi make a difference?

    The tyres are the same across the axle Marshall Matrac FX 205/50R15 86V . I have never used these before so maybe it was a bad tyre choice that has caused this wandering. Just a bit of information this problem occurs on a steady throttle not under acceleration or braking.

    Thanks to all who took the time and trouble to reply, I am sure the answer is in there !

    Cheers

    Phil

  5. Hi all,

    I have purchased some 15" alloy wheels previously fitted to an M*T* shod with 205/50R15 tyres . My car now seems to steer itself on non perfect surfaces. I will be driving along okay then suddenly the car seems to veer slightly off course needing a determined correction to bring it back on line. this does not happen on good smooth surfaces but is non the less very disconcerting when it does. Is this the start of wear in the rack, track rod ends or something else which only manifests itself at present on bad surfaces. Any thoughts?

    Cheers

    Phil

  6. Hi all,

    As some of you will remember my TR7 had head problems, well they are all behind me now, well nearly. The garage returned the car to me and the car starts easily and runs, but goes like a one legged chicken and will not rev over 4500, this is not what I expected. I spoke to the mechanic and he said there was an ignition problem, apparently my car is fitted with a ballast resistor and I had fitted a new coil, which was 12v ballast type, but after five minutes it became unbearably hot. this he concluded was a breakdown of the resistor, so they loaned me a 12v coil to get the car running. They also used their Autodata info for a TR7 8 valve engine to set the timing.My question to you is two fold, firstly can I leave the defunct ballast resistor alone and fit a 12 Lucas sports coil, and secondly is the timing right ,or is that inhibiting the engine from reving freely as it did prior to the head trouble.Lastly am I right in thinking the ballast resistor is a way of prolonging points life , or is there another reason they are fitted?

    Cheers

    Phil

  7. Thanks Guys,

    I think given the cost difference I will use the older stay type. Has anyone got a photo of the position for the bottom mounting bracket and better still anyone got a bracket?

    Cheers

    Phil

  8. Hi all,

    Just an update on my head gasket woes. As is usual it was not as simple as that, the head was severely corroded around some of the water jackets ,almost touching the combustion chamber bowls, Headmasters at Doncaster are refurbishing it and recommended new valves as the original ones had been ground so deep into the seats that a previous owner/ repairer took an angle grinder to the top of them in order to facilitate valve timing!! They also put the corrosion down to incorrect antifreeze/water ratio, and suggested 60/40 in future.

    The rub is I was at the Triumph/MG spares do at Stoneleigh and saw a 16 valve head for sale which I was about to buy for £65 but when I got back to the stall I saw it being put into a plastic bag.The valves and guides cost £193 from Rimmers , a set of valves guides springs stem oil seals and followers cost £190. This is going to be a very expensive head gasket job.

    Cheers

    Phil

  9. Hi all,

    My TR7 has no boot stay, well I have a piece of wood I use , but it's not that good, so my question is as my car is a 1981 it should have an air strut fitted but can I use the earlier type which is like the bonnet prop,and if so has anyone got a spare they would like to sell?

    Thanks

    Phil

  10. Hi Andy, I decided to let the garage do the head, and then found out that a sprint engine does not face the stud problem assocciated with the 8 valve engine as they are within the rocker box therefore shielded from the weather as they are splashed with oil.

    cheers

    Phil

  11. Hi All,

    As well as my head gasket woes since the car ejected the contents of the cooling system out of the header tank my nearside headlamp refuses to come out to play preferring to illuminate the road under the car instead of in front. Can anyone give me advice as how to track down the possible causes?

    Cheers

    Phil

  12. Hi all,

    Has anyone done a head gasket on a sprint engine recently, if so can you let me know if the head studs should be replaced and what if any problems I should look out for?

    Thanks

    Phil

  13. Hi all, My TR7 has a sprint engine fitted , by a previous owner, and starts easily and runs like a train until is gets warmed up the it starts missing, as some of you will know I replaced the coil, points , condensor and plugs but the problem remains.Has anyone any more ideas, I think I shall bite the bullit and order a set of HT leads as I can only assume they may be breaking down, if that is possible. I can' t imagine it being

    the rotor arm or cap , but can it? Perhaps someone can tell me,

    Cheers

    Phil

  14. Success at last. The dolomite sprint info ntc sent me helped us in timing the engine after I stupidly removed the distributor without marking its position and noting the rotor position. A hard lesson learnt, thanks to all who offered advice and especially ntc for the practical help, so onward and upward!!

    Cheers

    Phil

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