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Posts posted by D1070
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+1 for the CDD cv shafts and hubs
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Devon registration as well,looks tidy and nice coat of Valencia blue.
Might be worth checking quality of coolant and if it's not been used much in recent years flush and renew
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Exeter reg
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Exonian
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Where did you source the headlining kit?
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I don't have the link but Revington have an electronic solution,expensive, but does away with the ball ache of the dog drive
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This will be my fifth run ,I will be co driving with James Cooper, entry 17
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Racetorations have a similar co-axial clutch,in fact ,it may well be the same.Fitted in 2007 it has been smooth and reliable for 55k miles,excellent bit of kit and a genuinely good 'upgrade' ,
Cheers,
Laurence
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Thanks Roger and Stuart,I'll speak to Revington ,bearing James's comments in mind,
Cheers
Laurence
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Alec' s words are even more pertinent today than in 1979.Triumphs in general and TRs in particular look incredibly vulnerable compared to contemporary vehicles. I have a roll bar fitted and front hub strengthening kit but does anyone know where the tank shield and suspension strengthening kit can be purchased. Apologies in advance if this has already been discussed in other threads ,
Cheers
Laurence
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13 hours ago, Sapphire72 said:
To R&R rear spring:
Jack up rear, place stand under chassis to inside of rear axle.
Remove road wheel, brake drum (turn in shoe adjustment so drum slides off freely), (6) nuts securing outer half-shaft, undo outer gaiter/boot & wire (if present), slide out axle half-shaft at splines from inner half-shaft.
Place rolling jack under rear of TA, allowing room to remove the two nuts securing the shock to the TA.
Jack up slightly & remove the two nuts/washer (note the thread length showing at bottom).
You will want to separate the emergency brake cable & the brake line rubber hose.
Lower jack slowly until you can feel the spring come free.
Use new spring pads if you have them.
You can figure out the reassembly. It gets a little tricky because the spring wants to move.
Do NOT over-torque the (6) nuts (15-18 lb.ft. is plenty) when replacing the axle.
Torque figure noted,thankyou
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2 hours ago, stuart said:
TBH I suspect with the type of spring on yours then you would only need to disconnect the shock and drop each axle until the shaft is touching the chassis and the spring would easily lever out with a tyre lever as its quite short.
Stuart.
Good point Stuart, they are 1 inch, approx ,shorter than stock,so it may be possible to remove them without disturbing the drive shafts.
Cheers
Laurence
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I've searched the relevant forums but not found the sequence to remove and replace the rear springs on my TR5.
Will it be necessary to unbolt the drive shafts as well as the shock absorber?.I assume the rear antiroll bar will have to be at least loosened if not removed
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The FB page that Darren has set up works well,it's not for everyone but personally I prefer the format to traditional forums.
Cheers
Laurence
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Racetorations do ducting in fiberglass coloured black,simple but effective
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Not this time..
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late example,the final digit denotes overdrive
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Nice Bury registration
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The reviews are generally excellent Tim . I've got the vredestein sprint classic and they tick most of the required boxes as well,the only downside with t trac might be that they are classified as summer tyres tho probably not an issue in the uk,
Cheers
Laurence
British Car Meet at Morges Switzerland, 2 October
in TRs Out and About
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It's a great event, I've been a few times and I'm looking forward to the journey to Morges again in September.