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About Sperry_22

  • Birthday 09/20/1966

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  • Location
    Portsmouth Hampshire
  • Cars Owned:
    Windsurfing, Kite Surfing, Mountain Biking, Old British Sports Cars that work and don't work
  1. Hi Andrew & Nick I also have a heretage shell that I bought from Moss some 10 or 11 years ago It has been in a mothballed state for a number of years due to family stuff so progress has been slow as far as my rebuild has gone. The re-build kicked off again about three years ago and I'm at the stage of fitting windows, windscreen and dashboard and wiring. Engine, Gearbox and suspension is all done. Once I figure how I shall post some photos to give you an idea of what it is like and what I had work from. Cheers Tim
  2. Hi Guys Due to age and sunlight the trim around my dashboard is showing its age whith the odd crack and scratch on the vinyl spoiling the looks so I decided that instead of buying the remanufactured dash top and crash pads who's quality is dubious that I would have them retrimmed in leather (black) including the H-Section on the gearbox. Problem is the quotes I have had to do this seem high topping around the £500.00 mark which does seem rather a lot although I suspect the quality would be very good. I was wondering if anyone has had this done on their dash-top and surrounds recently and what would be a fair price to pay. Could anyone recommend a good trimmer that I could use - I live in the Portsmouth Hampshire area. Thanks very much
  3. Sperry_22


    Hi Steve Rustins = 2 Pack Plastic Coating is what you need You can order it through Axminster check link, you'll only need the 250ml pack. http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_...e=1&jump=44 I've used it and the finish is great and hard. (did about 20 coats so I could sand back - used wetn'dry from 600 grade up to 1500 on a block to get smooth, then polished it with T-Cut.). Then buffed using a polishing mop on a my drill. I have just about finished my dash after doing various repairs to the veneer, clocks fitted back tonight. Hopefully the whole lot will be finished by the weekend. Hope this helps Tim
  4. Hi Guys Thanks very much for the advice and sorry for not getting back sooner, Yes Richard I like the idea of just carefully sanding back the veneer to even out the colour and avoiding having to use a stain or dye. This will keep it simple and original although I still like the look of those Walnut dashboards. I have also acquired a batch 'Rustin's Plastic Coating' and a supply of Wet n Dry from 360 to 1500 grit that should be fine enough to get a really nice final finish. The next hurdle now is to find a good time to sneak the whole lot into the house to apply the 10 or 12 coats of lacquer its got too cold out in the garage now for this type of thing. The wife will never know! The other problem is now you guys have helped me find Axminster “Toy” Centre I can’t help ordering Dewalt type stuff that’s got nothing to do with the TR, no harm though. Thanks again for the advice and if it looks good enough I will post some photos of the finished masterpiece Tim
  5. Hi Guys At last I've plucked up the courage to restore my dashboard on my TR6 which has got all the signs of age, such as cracking lacquer and the effects of the sun as well as damp. It looked like the veneer below would have suffered and I would be looking for a new dash. However once I’d removed the copious layers of lacquer I found the veneer to be in great condition and well worth keeping. The only problem is that the veneer has faded unevenly from one side to another. The big question is what's the best colour stain or dye to restore an even colour back into the teak veneer before I start building back the layers of lacquer again. Not sure what Triumph used originally and it seems hard to find a correct shade. If anyone has any ideas on what best to do that would be great as I’m only going to get one go at getting this right. Thanks Tim
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