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Peter Vernon

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Posts posted by Peter Vernon

  1. Thanks all for your help. I have changed the setting to "B" and there is a marked improvement in the tick over and pick up.

     

    I was not after the performance increase but wanted to get a smoother drive and removal of a flat spot that I had with the Lucas distributor.

     

    Thanks all for your assistance.

     

    Peter

  2. I am using a flamethrower 1.5 amp coil that according to Powerspark is OK. I was also using Magnecor leads and the guys at Powerspark suggested that I use silicone. I purchased some but they are still in the wrapping as I am using the Magnecors with the 123. I may have been unlucky but my confidence is not at its highest with the Powerspark module, especially that one of the replacements was DOA.

     

    Peter

  3. I have fitted a 123 distributor, the standard item not the type to connect to a computer.

     

    I have checked the forum and the setting that some have used is No 7. The car is running well but I just wanted to check that I am on the correct setting. I have a std cam with a 150 BHP engine if that helps.

     

    Everything is smooth enough and seems to pull better at low revs but I just want to check if I can get better performance.

     

    Peter

  4. I have had a Powerspark dizzy on my 6 for 12 months. I have had three failures of the module, including one that was dead on arrival. Powerspark to their credit sent me modules to replace the failed ones but even one of those was useless. Apparently you should not use copper plug leads! I have bitten the bullet and have now fitted a 123 which works well.

     

    Peter

  5. John, give them a call and they will sort it for you. I will have a look at mine and see if there is a model no on it. I purchased a Minimest "T" with a suitable hose and 150 psi gauge. The cost was approx £75 delivered.

     

    Peter

  6. I had this problem and it turned out to be the inlet pipe collapsing and starving the pump and making a racket. I replaced the inlet and outflow pipes and have been trouble free since. That was after I replaced the Bosch pump as I thought it was shot..... At least I have a spare now!

     

    An idea just in case it is not the "crud".

     

    Peter

  7. Craig,

     

    It is a nice easy job two hours max if you have the correct tools. It is worthwhile fitting new brake pads at the same time, A caliper spreader is a handy tool if you have one, pretty cheap to buy from Machine Mart if you don't.

     

    Just make sure that when you push the calipers back that you do not flood the engine bay with the brake fluid!

     

    Good luck,

     

    Peter

  8. Steve,

     

    Call TD Fitchett and ask for a NOS (still on a shrink wrap board) TR5/6 one (aftermarke) with yellow outer sleeve and brass ferrules - http://www.tdfitchett.co.uk/

     

    Cheers

    Andrew

     

     

    +1 for me. I had three failures of accelerator cables from a well known supplier. The outer cable was not secured to the bush on the bulkhead and this means the inner cable has nothing to pull against and does not open the butterflys. I suppose this is another one for the duff spaers alert.

     

    P

  9. I am going to bite the bullet and re-wire the fuse box on my TR6.

     

    The quality of the glass fuses together with my 40 year old fuse box has been the source of some angst over the last couple of months and I have decided to install modern blade fuses with a number of extras to cope with the additional items I have or intend to have on the car, Kenlow, Bosch pump, 12v power supply etc.

     

    When installing the fuse board it is pretty clear that the number of live and switched feeds needs to be increased as the modern fuse boards only have one output blade per fuse rather than the double output of the Lucas standard fuse box. I am not a fan of two circuits to the same fuse but I have lived with it for a long time so it cannot be too bad!.

     

    The Bosch pump is on new heavy duty wiring and is fused near the pump as is the Kenlow fan and both are on relays switched from the original loom, so all good so far. To create a number of new switched live feeds I was thinking of installing a bus bar switched by a relay for the new circuits from which I can take a number of new switched live feeds for new circuits.

     

    Has anyone done this before, (hopefully) or can anyone suggest an alternative? If you have some idea of a relay that would cope and give me some capacity for any other items that I may need that would be helpful.

     

    I was thinking that 45amp relay would be OK to feed a 12v power supply and override fan switch with another 30amp to re wire the lights, or is that too small.

     

    I have posted this in Technical Chat rather than TR6 forum as I am sure this is a shared problem across many of our cars.

     

    Any advice welcome!

     

    Thanks,

     

    Peter

  10. TRy this one as well http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

     

    Roger

     

    The diagram that Roger linked you is clear with corrct colours. What is not shown is the pump wiring. The wiring for the fuel pump can be found in the brown bible, the diagrams black and white but simple enough.

     

    I have had the same problem this week looking for the fuel pump wiring on the diiagram then realising that this was a USA spec wiring diagram. No wonder that the fuel pump was not on it!!.

     

    Peter

  11. Well this one takes the biscuit, for me at any rate.

     

    In a pre-first run for 2014 run I checked the indicators and the usual pressures and fluids. All was well and off down the road until the first turn, indicators on and the engine died.

     

    I re started the car minus the indicators and it started fine until the next corner, same thing happened again. Now the car is on the drive I have had a good look and despite looking and looking some more I am none the wiser!

     

    I have disconnected the indicator switch and the car runs fine. The moment I connect the wires for the indicators and the engine dies. (This is not a short from the switch wiring to the steering column then). I have checked all the wiring, run the car minus indicators, all the electrics are fine including the overdrive, lights radio etc. and the alternator seems to be charging and there are no warning lights.

     

    Well, I am out of ideas any help would be gratefully received!

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