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Peter Vernon

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Everything posted by Peter Vernon

  1. Thanks all for your help. I have changed the setting to "B" and there is a marked improvement in the tick over and pick up. I was not after the performance increase but wanted to get a smoother drive and removal of a flat spot that I had with the Lucas distributor. Thanks all for your assistance. Peter
  2. Andy, I agree entirely, they either work or they don’t! I cannot see that copper leads would make any difference but I at least followed the advice given by the supplier so as not to invalidate the warranty. on the product.
  3. I am using a flamethrower 1.5 amp coil that according to Powerspark is OK. I was also using Magnecor leads and the guys at Powerspark suggested that I use silicone. I purchased some but they are still in the wrapping as I am using the Magnecors with the 123. I may have been unlucky but my confidence is not at its highest with the Powerspark module, especially that one of the replacements was DOA. Peter
  4. I have fitted a 123 distributor, the standard item not the type to connect to a computer. I have checked the forum and the setting that some have used is No 7. The car is running well but I just wanted to check that I am on the correct setting. I have a std cam with a 150 BHP engine if that helps. Everything is smooth enough and seems to pull better at low revs but I just want to check if I can get better performance. Peter
  5. I have had a Powerspark dizzy on my 6 for 12 months. I have had three failures of the module, including one that was dead on arrival. Powerspark to their credit sent me modules to replace the failed ones but even one of those was useless. Apparently you should not use copper plug leads! I have bitten the bullet and have now fitted a 123 which works well. Peter
  6. Niall ,the boot bags release without having to open the boot and therefore no strain on hinges. I have a boot bag and use it on my wife's car, which is an advantage if you want to use it on a non TR or lend it to a pal as I have.
  7. John, give them a call and they will sort it for you. I will have a look at mine and see if there is a model no on it. I purchased a Minimest "T" with a suitable hose and 150 psi gauge. The cost was approx £75 delivered. Peter
  8. I purchased a fuel pressure guage from Hydrotech with the rest of the kit, "T" piece, hose etc. They were very helpful when I called. It works well.Give them a call, I am sure they will help. http://www.hydrotechnik.co.uk Regards, Peter
  9. +1 for Neil, For all the faff it is worth getting an exchange from Neil. Usual disclaimers!
  10. I had this problem and it turned out to be the inlet pipe collapsing and starving the pump and making a racket. I replaced the inlet and outflow pipes and have been trouble free since. That was after I replaced the Bosch pump as I thought it was shot..... At least I have a spare now! An idea just in case it is not the "crud". Peter
  11. +1 for JDO, great service from John. The Rev counter works well, very smooth with no jumping. Some posts indicated that the needle may jump but the posts are old and it is not the case now. Peter
  12. Shunty, I fitted a tank from Andy Wiltshire on the advice of forum member. Nice bit of kit and not too expensive. You may have to wait for a while: http://www.andywiltshire.com/web%20site%20tank%20page.htm You have the advantage of ordering a larger capacity tank as I did. I am not connected just a very happy customer. Peter
  13. Craig, It is a nice easy job two hours max if you have the correct tools. It is worthwhile fitting new brake pads at the same time, A caliper spreader is a handy tool if you have one, pretty cheap to buy from Machine Mart if you don't. Just make sure that when you push the calipers back that you do not flood the engine bay with the brake fluid! Good luck, Peter
  14. +1 for me. I had three failures of accelerator cables from a well known supplier. The outer cable was not secured to the bush on the bulkhead and this means the inner cable has nothing to pull against and does not open the butterflys. I suppose this is another one for the duff spaers alert. P
  15. I searched this on the forum but to no avail. Has anyone used Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure? (What a product name!) I am told that it is very effective in solving leaks. I am sure there will be some choice reply’s but I am interested nonetheless. Regards, Peter
  16. Speak to Neil Ferguson he will know what is the best material to use. Peter
  17. Ron, try this, it is a very simple solution and you can use the £2.50 12v round buzzer from Maplin. You will need to hide it as it is white!! http://www.elises.co.uk/diy/buzzer/buzzer.jpg
  18. I am going to bite the bullet and re-wire the fuse box on my TR6. The quality of the glass fuses together with my 40 year old fuse box has been the source of some angst over the last couple of months and I have decided to install modern blade fuses with a number of extras to cope with the additional items I have or intend to have on the car, Kenlow, Bosch pump, 12v power supply etc. When installing the fuse board it is pretty clear that the number of live and switched feeds needs to be increased as the modern fuse boards only have one output blade per fuse rather than the double output
  19. +1 for Andy. Sometimes a bit of a wait but well worth waiting for. Peter
  20. I have fitted the Bosch S4 Car Battery Type 069 / 072 70Ah from Euro Car Parts. It has high capacity, is the right size and is reasonably priced at £65.99 with a four year guarantee. Peter
  21. Avons for me, just fitted and much better than the Firestones that I had previously. Given the variety of responses there are a lot of good tyres out there! Peter
  22. The diagram that Roger linked you is clear with corrct colours. What is not shown is the pump wiring. The wiring for the fuel pump can be found in the brown bible, the diagrams black and white but simple enough. I have had the same problem this week looking for the fuel pump wiring on the diiagram then realising that this was a USA spec wiring diagram. No wonder that the fuel pump was not on it!!. Peter
  23. Neil, I will have a look and report back. Thanks, Peter
  24. Neil, The flasher unit is working OK, I have checked it and it is flashing when run to earth via test screwdriver. Thanks, Peter
  25. Well this one takes the biscuit, for me at any rate. In a pre-first run for 2014 run I checked the indicators and the usual pressures and fluids. All was well and off down the road until the first turn, indicators on and the engine died. I re started the car minus the indicators and it started fine until the next corner, same thing happened again. Now the car is on the drive I have had a good look and despite looking and looking some more I am none the wiser! I have disconnected the indicator switch and the car runs fine. The moment I connect the wires for the indicators and the en
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