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harrytr5

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Posts posted by harrytr5

  1. On 4/18/2024 at 2:37 PM, Neilson said:

    These are my exiting mirrors Roy, and you’re welcome to have them once I can fit the others. It looks like it’s going to be a tedious job though, as I’ll need to drill a larger hole in the existing front screw hole to 1/2”. It then looks like I’ll need to take of inner door panel and remove glass so I’ll hopefully be able to do the new one’s up. It might take a while to do as I’m a bit of a novice when it comes to this! 
    Neil

     

    IMG_0274.jpeg

    IMG_0275.jpeg

    Nothing wrong with those mirrors. Majority of TRs have them. I would leave alone and sell your lucky find on.

    Regards Harry

  2. I had this problem and despite having it calibrated etc.. after a rebuild it still flickered. I changed the speedo drive and cable but still the same. Spoke to overdrive services and they suggested it could be the drive worm gear for the speedo angle drive. There is a bolt just up from the angle drive which locates the worm drive. I changed it for a new one and bingo it worked in my case so now a happy bunny. Not saying it could be the same as yours but something to look out for.

    Good luck.

    P.S. I cleaned the inner cable and coated it with graphite lock powder.

  3. I love these with the bonnet stripes and yours would be silver, but does not detract for being a very nice car. The colour I am somewhat biased as my (TR5) is in Jasmine.

    Enjoy!

    Regards Harry

  4. My K6 is under the glovebox area. Hinged on a drop down purposed made cage and secured by spire clips. I have been running my EFI since 2010 and been relatively trouble free. One hot water sender kaput, one coil pack with a misfire, Crank sensor tried to make a run for it but overall very, very good.

    Changed out  for Heritage throttle bodies in 2017 (I think) and that induction roar is fab.

    EmeraldM3D are a great company and Dave Walker (company founder) is a guru on EFI and training up a younger guy to take over his mantle.20201221_150214_resized.thumb.jpg.4387590947ad20247559b189b5a2dbfd.jpg

  5. Where are you Geoff ?

    Bypass the rheostat. Speedo and rev counter out. Disconnect the glove box stay. Take out the five securing screws. Pull dash forwards and you may have to undo the oil feed pipe for better access. You can then see where the wiring is on the rheostat and bypass it. Red cables to join  red and white.  Solder Bullet connectors and sleeves.

    Regards Harry

  6. I like the moss ones with the big nut. I make up a stainless washer for the inside and tighten the nut on that. On a painted door which I have done a few times masking tape is you friend and take your time in filing the hole to suit. I also fit a large stainless washer on the forward part of the handle to spread the load.

    Regards Harry

  7. The setting tool is more or less fool proof and that is why I built mine (but not my idea, just copied it. Saves all the calculations! push the rod into the master cylinder, lock up, reverse it onto the servo pin and measure. This will determine the gap.

    You will get there.

    Regards Harry

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