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Posts posted by harrytr5
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Please don't mess around get a new wiring loom.
I stripped out a burnt wiring loom and when investigating even further into the wiring loom it was a mess. Do not risk it!
Regards Harry
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I have registered,
Regards Harry
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I am not qualified but will not use it. Think there is an article in the States of why they do not use it. Check it out.
Regards Harry
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I had this problem and despite having it calibrated etc.. after a rebuild it still flickered. I changed the speedo drive and cable but still the same. Spoke to overdrive services and they suggested it could be the drive worm gear for the speedo angle drive. There is a bolt just up from the angle drive which locates the worm drive. I changed it for a new one and bingo it worked in my case so now a happy bunny. Not saying it could be the same as yours but something to look out for.
Good luck.
P.S. I cleaned the inner cable and coated it with graphite lock powder.
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I love these with the bonnet stripes and yours would be silver, but does not detract for being a very nice car. The colour I am somewhat biased as my (TR5) is in Jasmine.
Enjoy!
Regards Harry
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Try Classic Car Developments (Alisdair Southall) as he manufactures these and could share his measurements with you. (www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk)
07812 766789
Regards Harry
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I do know this one and its owner and surprised he is selling it.
Regards Harry
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This has all been sorted on an earlier post thanks to Bob Ledbro.
Regards Harry
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My K6 is under the glovebox area. Hinged on a drop down purposed made cage and secured by spire clips. I have been running my EFI since 2010 and been relatively trouble free. One hot water sender kaput, one coil pack with a misfire, Crank sensor tried to make a run for it but overall very, very good.
Changed out for Heritage throttle bodies in 2017 (I think) and that induction roar is fab.
EmeraldM3D are a great company and Dave Walker (company founder) is a guru on EFI and training up a younger guy to take over his mantle.
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Yes it should fit. The prop shaft is the same length with or without the overdrive. Tom Cox will build you one of course. Address and phone number inside back page or Traction mag.
Regards Harry
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I will have a look Waldi and find the paperwork.
Hope to see you in Malvern. Dan and I are doing the Modified Triumphs again this year.
Regards Harry
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Where are you Geoff ?
Bypass the rheostat. Speedo and rev counter out. Disconnect the glove box stay. Take out the five securing screws. Pull dash forwards and you may have to undo the oil feed pipe for better access. You can then see where the wiring is on the rheostat and bypass it. Red cables to join red and white. Solder Bullet connectors and sleeves.
Regards Harry
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I like the moss ones with the big nut. I make up a stainless washer for the inside and tighten the nut on that. On a painted door which I have done a few times masking tape is you friend and take your time in filing the hole to suit. I also fit a large stainless washer on the forward part of the handle to spread the load.
Regards Harry
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Servo assisted.Or Cambridge motorsports annular clutch kit (gearbox out for that one)
Regards Harry
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There is or was a problem with a batch of TRW brake master cylinders which one would hope have been scrapped!
I personally, prefer original rebuilt from Past Parts.
Regards Harry
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Very nice, well done, hope to see it in IWE.
Regards Harry
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The setting tool is more or less fool proof and that is why I built mine (but not my idea, just copied it. Saves all the calculations! push the rod into the master cylinder, lock up, reverse it onto the servo pin and measure. This will determine the gap.
You will get there.
Regards Harry
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That link does not open for me.
Regards Harry
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Can you not just drill a hole where you want it and bolt a fitting with a suitable ribbed tail on it.
That what I did on mine (TR5)
Regards Harry
How lucky am I?
in TR5/250 Forum
Posted
Nothing wrong with those mirrors. Majority of TRs have them. I would leave alone and sell your lucky find on.
Regards Harry