AndyC 4A
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Posts posted by AndyC 4A
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Thanks for the clarification, so I am looking for comments on the back-light section, and the surrey "soft" centre section, Moss, Honeybourne or any other. Stuart has kindly started the ball rolling with his views and experience so I am interested in anyone else's comments, good bad or otherwise on replicas v originals. Also, I see in the Moss On-line catalogue, some items are on back order, anyone had experience on time delays this means?
Andy
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Thanks Pete, that is what I was asking
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Hi All,
My soft top needs replacing and I am thinking of a Honeybourne equivalent. I am selling my other 2 seater (Honda S2000) and so the TR will be my 2nd (Occasional) car, and as a consequence will need the space where the soft top sits. Also Mrs C wants to take the the smallish dogs out with us in the Summer so the space will be useful.
So the question is, has anyone bought a complete replica "Surrey" from Moss or anyone else? Not really worried about having the "hard (Surrey) top" section at this time. Not much on the forum, odd mention of Honeybourne but not regarding complete ones. All comments welcome, warts and all.
Yours in anticipation
Andy
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Thanks Geko but the pin is intact. Just an observation but is the spring assembly on upside down in your picture?
Andy
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Picture now hopefully
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Thanks Roger,
The lock itself seems to be OK, when I lift the side lever up, the plunger extends and pushes on the mech lever, and when the side lever is down, the plunger is disabled. The problem is as I see it that the link assembly which pulls the lock side lever down, is defaulting to the down position, so that it is in effect locking the door, i.e. handle button being pressed does nothing,
Hope the picture attached makes more sense than my ramblings.
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Hi All,
Having run the TR for a year or so I thought I would get around to the snagging list of annoying jobs that need to be done, one of which is my Passenger door lock assembly. I am not sure that it is working properly, but unsure what is correct. I'll explain.-- when the passenger door shuts, it cannot be opened from the outside. If I reach in and pull the internal handle back, it opens fine. Again, when the door is shut, but the internal handle is or has been pushed forward, then I can open the door from the outside. I can see that the link assembly (650251) is moving up then allowing the lock plunger to push the lever arm on the "rotary lock 750169" (Moss description) . But once that happens, the link assembly pulls the lock lever arm down and there it stays until the internal handle is pushed forward again. I am not sure this is correct as it behaves differently on the drivers side.
Am I missing something? I have the lock assembly on the bench and nothing seems awry, that I can see, comparing it to various drawings.
There is a small spring on the rotary lock which doesn't seem to do much, but it's probably important.
So my question is, is the lock behaving correctly or not?
Many thanks
Andy C
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Thanks everyone,
So one flat and one curve is definitely not right, for a 4 or 4a. I now have to break the news to him that his TR that he has had since it was 18 months old has probably been bent in its very early life and no-one noticed until now. Perhaps I'll leave him in blissful ignorance.
Many thanks for your comments and to sharing your extensive knowledge.
Andy
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Second picture
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Hi Stuart,
I attach 2 pictures which may help. 1 of 2 is my car showing the sculpted area highlighted and 2 of 2 shows the same area highlighted but with a straight edge.
Hope this helps.
Andy C
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I have a quick question regarding the small "shelf" that is part of the inner front wheel arch assembly.(Mounted on that is another smaller one to which the brackets for the horns and horn relay are mounted). On my 4a the ones attached to the inner wing are the same and are about 10" long with curve indented in them. I noticed that on a friends 4a the drivers side is the same but on the passengers side, the curve is not in the pressing, it is straight front to back.
Was there any difference between 4 and 4a inner wings? I have have viewed many engine bay pictures on the Internet, and cannot work out why there should be any difference from one side to the other, unless in the past there was a replacement inner wing fitted.
So I ask if any knowledgeable members can enlighten me as to 1. what models had that difference, and 2. would any cars have one of each from new?
Many thanks for your help.
Andy C
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Thanks guys, the feet of the H frame locate ok with the floor and it looks upright, the top bracket vertical face is facing the cockpit so I assume thats the right way otherwise the frame would lean towards the engine bay...wouldn't it?
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Hi All,
Just wondered if its me. Gearbox back in, but putting into 3rd gear the lever pushes the heater fan switch in. I am sure it shouldn't but what is in the wrong place? I welcome your thoughts.
Andy
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Thanks Roger, have drilled it out and all is well, sometimes its about having the confidence to do these things, and your reply certainly helped.
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Hi all,
I need a bit of advice or guidance on a self inflicted problem please. I have the engine and box out to do a few jobs and in separating the engine from the box the engine tilted and fell to one side, only onto carpet tiles, old ones but better than concrete. As a consequence, the heater valve hit the deck first and sheared off flush with the steel 90 degree elbow in the head, actually just inside it!! As I can't unscrew this elbow to put it in the vice, it hits the nut and stud on the corner of the head, I am going to have the get the remaining threaded portion out in situ.
My options are limited but I think they are either drill out the remaining as close to the thread as possible and then using a small "pointy thing" to hook out the residual and run a tap through, or to use a junior hacksaw blade and saw through the thread in a couple of places, and break it out. Either way, I am concious of having swarf dropping into the cooling system.
Has anyone experienced this problem, or got any better ideas on removing this threaded portion of the valve.
Many thanks in anticipation for any replies
Andy C.
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Thank you Stuart, I will give that a go in the morning. Just for info, my replacement hood as it does not have a top centre pocket.
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Can anyone explain, or point me in the direction of an explanation, of how the soft top correctly folds down, particularly the side windows. The sharp angle at the bottom rear of the clear plastic side window has come detached from the main cover for an inch in both directions on both sides so I must be doing something wrong. Any advice gratefully received.
Andy
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Having to face the very issue of re-fitting the G/Box to an engine in situ after an O/D rebuild, this thread has been very helpful, but one thing I need to ask, and that is what the cable tie, referred to earlier, is being used for?
Just to add that the clutch fork taper pin had sheared off, twice, once at the end of the thread, and the other 1/4 inch in, flush with shaft/fork join, so luckily managed to "tap" the shaft and the first part fell out, enabling me to pull the shaft through the fork... I was amazed after comments from Roger in a different thread :-)
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I bought my fan from Kenlowe and came wth a wide thick rubber band which slipped over the radiator tope hose inlett. This band had a groove in it which the capillary tube to the sensor bulb was laid in. The hose is then slipped over it as per normal with the hose clip tightened directly over the band. No leaks or weeps so far and have had it apart a couple of times dealing with thermostat issues. I did wonder if the sensor bulb would restrict water flow as it sits in the radiator inlet but doesn't seem to. Thoughts?
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Can I just ask about the position of the sensor, should it be in the bottom or top hose or doesn't it matter as long as the fan comes on at the correct temperature?
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I have checked the distributor cap and the carbon brush is is free and hardly worn as I would expect as it has only done a couple of hundred miles, but understand that new does not necessarily mean fault free, bathtub graph of reliability! I have inspected the rotor arm with a watchmakers eyepiece and I cannot see a nick or spring. It has the number 2 embossed on the underneath directly behind the locating lug, and on the top has a symbol of a C with what looks like an I vertically across it with Made in England in a circle around it.
As for fuel, I have noticed that despite having the Fuel tank steam cleaned etc, the paper fuel filter is now quite dark, so will change that shortly and check the float chambers as well for crud etc.
Will be my last post for a while as flying out the States to drive Route 66 tomorrow, any one got any good suggestions on what automotive places of interest to recommend??
Andy
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Hi Geko,
Interesting you should mention the rotor arm as what I failed to mention, as I thought it irrelevant at the time. was that as a security measure, I removed the rotor arm. Was this a coincidence or did I fail to put it back correctly, didn't think you could as it worked or it didn't ?? Also, where is the spring you mention?
Andy
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Thanks all, sound advice as always. I will work through the components and check connections etc. Taking it out for a spin this evening so will have a final check after that.
Interestingly I noticed that the dizzy doesn't have the plastic insert with the spade terminal on, solid wire direct from points to coil, but have found an insert on another unit.
The condenser was new, from "Motorist Discount Centre" so may need to change, at least have a spare in the car.
As for Towergate, they took details, reading from a script, ....... was it diesel or petrol, was it a saloon or estate, etc, which didn't inspire confidence so bit my tongue. Then they phoned back to say they couldn't get anyone with the knowledge to fault find so would send a recovery truck. Also I wasn't aware, probably my fault, that the recovery was only "local", within 10 miles form home.
Do we prefer copper HT leads or the flexible carbon jobbies?
Andy
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Yesterday, I did the longest continuous run since complete rebuild, which was 40 miles through the New Forest completed faultlessly. Parked up outside all day then attempted the return, different story. After about 4 miles I felt a small intermittent misfire, it disappeared then a minute or so later it came back as if I was firing on three. Revving it seemed to clear it but after another 5 miles or so it re-appeared and felt like I was down to to firing on two so was forced to stop. Bonnet up, coil, distributor cap, leads, all seemed ok, in fact they were new. After about 5 minutes, tried again, started fine, running on all 4, so off i went. another 3 miles and then the same thing happened.
Whilst waiting for Towergate I tried everything again, fuel was present (hand primed the pump to into the fuel filter), spark at points when manually opened, all connections sound, so was a bit flummucksed!. After about 20 minutes, I tried again and wanting to move the car off the verge of a busy A road, I decided to see how far I got this time, but did not close the bonnet fully and off I went,
Well this time I completed the remaining 20 miles fault free, only stopping in a lay-by to cancel the recovery.
So I would welcome thoughts as to this, my limited knowledge suggest that perhaps this is temperature related, cool morning run, fine, hot (ish) afternoon run and OK with through flow with bonnet open....something is breaking down...Coil perhaps.
Sorry for the ramble but has anyone had a similar situation or could offer suggestions?
Andy
Surrey original or alternative.
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Thanks everyone. Interestingly, from the conversations I am reading that fitting the back-light assembly is not an issue, so its up to me on alloy or fibreglass and Moss or Honeybourne as described by Stuart.The main chat seems to be have been about fitting the soft top which has been interesting. So I suppose its down to "pays yer money, takes yer choice"