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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. For me , it would be a good job for winter, when all the odds and ends associated with the diff being out can be done at leisure.
  2. If the indicator selector on the steering column had a left switching problem you would have no light on the left indicators at all. Go straight to checking the rear light earths. Are you sure all the left indicator bulbs are the correct wattage?
  3. Mike C

    Radiator Cowl.

    Brace the grille against vibration & associated metal fatigue?
  4. All original Triumph parts are generally better than aftermarket. But it's not critical as long as the replacement is a quality copper job.
  5. You have a copper radiator that looks original Triumph. I wouldn't replace it until I could source another with the correct nozzles in copper and preferably a recored original.
  6. Ok- there is no angle- "Its flat on the backplate and the SC seems parallel to the chassis not up or down left or right, at least as far as I can tell lying on my back underneath, lol."- that's the correct mounting.
  7. The SC assembly is in the right order but is the backplate mounted at an angle to the engine backplate? Maybe it's just my interpretation of the photo. I can't help you with the measurements as I'm a long way from my car at the moment.
  8. It's pretty normal for a car that's only used occasionally and shut down with the often engine still cold. I'd also check the choke lever on the side of the MU is releasing when the knob is pushed in- especially if the fuel consumption is high. You may consider drilling 3mm holes in the low points of each muffler- I've always done that to prevent condensation build up after short runs.
  9. Does it get worse or disappear under 2000 RPM. Detonation pinging will get worse .
  10. Oil pressure/bearings OK? Engine mounts tight? No exhaust leaks? I assume the tapping noise is related to engine speed- it does not change with gear changes.
  11. If you can get the noise with the car stationary, I'd reach for a mechanic's stethoscope to try and track it down.
  12. Hope the MOT goes well. The thin copper foil we would call in Australia a copper backing strip. I had the opportunity to install my replacement bonnet catch with a hook over the weekend (CV19 lockdown and all that). The replacement's hook fouled the emergency release requiring some rework. After reading some of the stuck bonnet postings I was paranoid about anything on the catch fouling.
  13. The diaphragm spring and the cross shaft spring should bring it back. Is the cross shaft spring broken or missing ?- ref: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID600014
  14. Mike C

    Engine cut out

    Hi Matt & welcome, It looks like you have a Pertronix Ignitor (?). If so they require different wiring for a ballasted coil as compared to a non ballasted one. Triumphs had both and , given the cars have had 50 odd years of modification , the only way to know for sure is to check. I'm intrigued by the cutting out in reverse, with the car in reverse, ignition on, engine off, do you have 12V, 6V or nothing at the coil?
  15. I also use infra red thermometers for a lot of cooling diagnostic work - engines and AC systems. They work well as you can quickly move from one component to another. I note the CV 19 checkers in the airports and shops are also using them.
  16. Mike C


    I have a supercharged MB SLK and vent the crankcase (rocker cover) directly to the ground alongside the transmission. No filter fitted and probably legal for off road use only. The original complex MB venting system is notorious for contaminating the fuel metering sensors. I see no technical problem in venting a TR6 rocker cover directly to atmosphere , other than it may not be legal for road vehicles in your jurisdiction. Can't get anything simpler than a direct vent to atmosphere.
  17. The wet test uses oil to seal the bores better confirm if the rings are leaking or the valves, pistons ( hopefully not) etc: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiHi9jC1tHqAhWOxzgGHXt3D6wQFjAAegQIAxAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.freeasestudyguides.com%2Fcompression-test-injecting-oil.html&usg=AOvVaw1L54lfN9dnOHUSuB1ksiHs I just don't like disassembling engines more than I have to.
  18. A set of wet and dry set of compression tests will indicate if you have wear in the valve guides.
  19. An airlock in the pump will stop fluid circulating and carrying away heat. The air collects in the pump at low engine speeds and stops circulation. At high speeds the sheer volume of fluid circulating carries the air along with the fluid. I assume the engine was initially filled with coolant with the heater valve fully open?
  20. Long shot- but are you sure you haven't got an airlock ?
  21. Is the cut in thermostat on the Revotec fan set properly? Is it turning in the right direction?
  22. The important thing is that the level is checked with the car level. I overfill mine with the front on stands, leave the plug out, lower it over an engine oil drain tray until the excess oil stops running out then jack it back up and replace the filler plug.
  23. I don't know what is misaligned , if anything. These are the first and simplest steps I'd take if I thought I had a driveshaft problem. Are you sure the noise is not normal operation previously masked by a noisy diff? I can't hear my driveshafts operate but I have Datsun half shafts and my hearing is not the best.
  24. No, chock the front wheels, jack up the car and rock the suspect rear wheel back and forth. In gear the wheel should only move a little but listen for any loose or broken parts . Out of gear you should be rotate the wheel fully but you may hear something as the wheel passes a particular point in its rotation- that could indicate something is misaligned.
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