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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. Hope the MOT goes well. The thin copper foil we would call in Australia a copper backing strip. I had the opportunity to install my replacement bonnet catch with a hook over the weekend (CV19 lockdown and all that). The replacement's hook fouled the emergency release requiring some rework. After reading some of the stuck bonnet postings I was paranoid about anything on the catch fouling.
  2. The diaphragm spring and the cross shaft spring should bring it back. Is the cross shaft spring broken or missing ?- ref: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID600014
  3. Mike C

    Engine cut out

    Hi Matt & welcome, It looks like you have a Pertronix Ignitor (?). If so they require different wiring for a ballasted coil as compared to a non ballasted one. Triumphs had both and , given the cars have had 50 odd years of modification , the only way to know for sure is to check. I'm intrigued by the cutting out in reverse, with the car in reverse, ignition on, engine off, do you have 12V, 6V or nothing at the coil?
  4. I also use infra red thermometers for a lot of cooling diagnostic work - engines and AC systems. They work well as you can quickly move from one component to another. I note the CV 19 checkers in the airports and shops are also using them.
  5. Mike C

    Blow-by

    I have a supercharged MB SLK and vent the crankcase (rocker cover) directly to the ground alongside the transmission. No filter fitted and probably legal for off road use only. The original complex MB venting system is notorious for contaminating the fuel metering sensors. I see no technical problem in venting a TR6 rocker cover directly to atmosphere , other than it may not be legal for road vehicles in your jurisdiction. Can't get anything simpler than a direct vent to atmosphere.
  6. The wet test uses oil to seal the bores better confirm if the rings are leaking or the valves, pistons ( hopefully not) etc: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiHi9jC1tHqAhWOxzgGHXt3D6wQFjAAegQIAxAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.freeasestudyguides.com%2Fcompression-test-injecting-oil.html&usg=AOvVaw1L54lfN9dnOHUSuB1ksiHs I just don't like disassembling engines more than I have to.
  7. A set of wet and dry set of compression tests will indicate if you have wear in the valve guides.
  8. An airlock in the pump will stop fluid circulating and carrying away heat. The air collects in the pump at low engine speeds and stops circulation. At high speeds the sheer volume of fluid circulating carries the air along with the fluid. I assume the engine was initially filled with coolant with the heater valve fully open?
  9. Long shot- but are you sure you haven't got an airlock ?
  10. Is the cut in thermostat on the Revotec fan set properly? Is it turning in the right direction?
  11. The important thing is that the level is checked with the car level. I overfill mine with the front on stands, leave the plug out, lower it over an engine oil drain tray until the excess oil stops running out then jack it back up and replace the filler plug.
  12. I don't know what is misaligned , if anything. These are the first and simplest steps I'd take if I thought I had a driveshaft problem. Are you sure the noise is not normal operation previously masked by a noisy diff? I can't hear my driveshafts operate but I have Datsun half shafts and my hearing is not the best.
  13. No, chock the front wheels, jack up the car and rock the suspect rear wheel back and forth. In gear the wheel should only move a little but listen for any loose or broken parts . Out of gear you should be rotate the wheel fully but you may hear something as the wheel passes a particular point in its rotation- that could indicate something is misaligned.
  14. Could be the UJ's and splines working into their new locations? I've never have this happen but I punch location marks on UJ's and shafts before dismantling them. Have you jacked up the wheels and checked for free play/noise?
  15. A decade or so ago a lot of people would have been telling you grease is no good because it doesn't flush any dirt out of the trunnions. I just got sick of the mess oiling the trunnions caused and I having to oil them regularly because the oil drained out. I still have an old grease gun converted to an oil gun in the garage-a messy device to use. I also suspect that moly grease was a rare commodity in 1969 so Triumph never really considered it as a service option.
  16. I stopped using EP90 on the trunnions maybe 10 years ago. Now I use moly grease on the trunnions, steering rack and everywhere else.
  17. In the original the pin looks like it's been cold forged over the washer and the steel in the hook is strong enough to bend the backing plate if you move it. These subtle fabrication details were known to Triumph's original designers but are lost to the repro suppliers. It's minor details like these that force me to scour the countryside looking for original parts.
  18. I noticed my safety hook was missing when I checked after this discussion started. I don't buy repro stuff if I can get original but coronavirus has closed my local TR wreckers and vintage swap meets are out of the question. I was lucky to source an original catch from the US - postage was a bit much but it still came in at around the cost of a repro part.
  19. I know but I wish the repro parts community would get the message that today's TR owners are prepared to pay good money for quality parts. By the time you factor in installation costs the difference in price between shoddy and quality parts is negligible. Most of us take pride in the standard of workmanship used on our vehicles and I for one never question the price of a part if I know it's from a supplier known for its quality. But I guess my standards were set in a world that existed before ebay and Amazon.
  20. Waldi , just as well you noticed that- obviously the gusset won't work unless it's welded. I hate repro parts.
  21. Waldi's pin isn't even staked properly. The original part has that pin connection formed over in a press. I don't like repro parts and after noticing by bonnet lock had no safety catch I had to import a second hand original part from the US. This cost twice as much in postage as the part cost but I've had very poor experience with repro parts .
  22. If you own a TR6 you really need the factory manual. I bought a paper copy years ago and it's covered in handwritten notes detailing my actual learnings as I did each job using it. In the meantime you can get an electronic copy here: https://app.box.com/s/3458383708b0fb05d75f
  23. Can you reach the oil and get a sample from the fill plug? If you have one , a vacuum oil changer, like MB's use for engine oil changes, would get most of the diff oil out when it's warm.
  24. Mike C

    Brake Problem

    If you loosen the connections at the 3 way does any fluid come out when you pump the system?
  25. You'll need to decide you want to measure alternator output or net current flow into/out of the battery. When I wired mine I took the Bosch direct feed out of the flow through the ammeter as I wanted to minimize current flows in the dashboard. My ammeter measures the net current flow into the battery only. I believe that Triumph fitted voltmeters to the later models because routing the steadily increasing alternator outputs through a dash mounted ammeter was an idea whose time had passed.
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