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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. Mike C

    Uprated clutch

    Reduced throw due to reduced rotation?
  2. I assume it's firing-"the engine turns for a few revs". Maybe try to get it running for a few seconds with starting fluid( or is that startpilot?)- might free something up. Are the carb float levels correct and the floats not sticking? I don't have a carbed TR6 but that has been a problem on other cars and bikes I've owned in the past.
  3. I've got an old GMH Statesmen with speed and angle sensitive steering. Like Stuart says it's basically electronic- signals from the speedometer and body control module feed into pulsing solenoids and a rotary throttling valve that reduces the amount of power assist at high speed and increase it at high speed/parking. The Statesman might be old but it's 24 years younger than my TR6. I can't see how variable ratio steering can be easily adapted into a TR6's basically mechanical systems.
  4. I'm also a fan of parking with the passenger side doors of the adjacent cars facing facing me.
  5. I use non setting sealant both sides. You want to check the housing mating faces for pitting and incipient porosity- I've had to replace one or two housings over the years.
  6. When I see the word "intermittent" I think electrical, especially Lucas electrical. From memory, 3rd and 4th have the same interlock switch on the selector shafts and maybe the switch on second went first? Unless I see my solenoid light on I assume any failure of the O/D to activate has an electrical cause. If the O/D should work in 2nd then its an A type. Maybe Ernest should start by checking the G/B oil level and if that's OK, unscrew the large brass plug and check the filter and oil for metallic particles.
  7. " I am assuming a possible electrical problem from the OD itself to the power supply."- my electrical problems were so bad I installed the O/D solenoid "power on" light to check the wiring and switch under actual operating conditions. I think I've fixed all the electrical problems by now but it's still reassuring to see the light on when I switch on the O/D
  8. As Nigel explained, replacing the solenoid is not a difficult job, although good quality , solenoids with the correct operating parameters are relatively expensive. If you have an A type overdrive, and assuming the oil level is correct , faulty operation is almost always due to the solenoid malfunctioning, generally caused by a problem with the switch or wiring. I fitted an indicator light on mine connected directly to the solenoid electrical feed so I can check that power is available when it should be.
  9. I'm just a bit more than 11 degrees, on Australian 98 octane and a slightly raised CR in a '69 CP with a TR5 cam. I try to advance the timing as far forward as possible but I won't risk pinking and detonation.
  10. Inspired by this thread, I've just had a look at my fuel gauge. With the ignition on but the engine not running it oscillates fairly quickly between over 3/4 full to just under 1/2. Would this be a voltage stabilizer problem ,or maybe , as I had the dash out last year- a loose connection somewhere? Thanks for any advice.
  11. I set mine at 11 deg BTDC at idle with the strobe for starters, then advance it slowly on test runs until the engine just starts pinging at WOT top gear.
  12. PBR rubber grease of any help?
  13. Galvanic corrosion requires that the two materials be immersed in a conductive solution, what do you think it is? I'm interested - as I have a lesser version of the same problem It can't be dry air.
  14. My local News Corp (the Melbourne Herald Sun) paper says the UK is getting ready for a rerun of the Cod Wars: Brexit: talks on verge of collapse as UK prepares to launch Navy patrols | Herald Sun
  15. I get white salty corrosion like that in a much milder form on the clutch cylinder- might be acid fumes from the battery venting? The painted steel around the base of the cylinder in mine also gets attacked locally by something, presumably the same fumes.
  16. 8 bar is 116 psi rated pressure. I would have thought it would take a least 170 psi to rupture it. Well above the PI system's working pressure.
  17. I get high pressure Gates Barricade in Australia from Repco. To avoid resonance I just put a loop in the line from the PRV to the tank, and I'm fairly generous when cutting the lengths of Barricade around the rest of the PI components in the boot.
  18. Maybe test it on the bench carefully with compressed air and see if it leaks.
  19. They're not fitted to my 1969 CP- comm no 261** - but the threaded holes are there.
  20. Hi Waldi, Agreed , if I were starting with a clean sheet of paper, I'd probably select a pump that would bypass 30% of the fuel through the PRV at full engine load MU fuel consumption and 105 psi into the PRV - to allow for a margin on all the old installation. Then I look around for a pump that would work at that duty point with petrol and could give me a reasonable NPSH margin on the suction-if I couldn't get the suction performance I'd keep my undertank suction booster pump arrangement- the high temperatures in Australia really cause havoc with petrol vapour pressure and the r
  21. As you know the pump power absorbed will depend on the head and flow-which in turn will depend on the particular system installation. The two pumps almost certainly will have different stable duty points in each installation as it's unlikely their performance curves will match exactly. But I guess the real measure is the pump current drawn while the injection system is operating successfully under all engine loads.
  22. In mine the coolant expands when hot and is sucked back as it cools from an atmospheric pressure tank. I'd call it an expansion tank.
  23. Mike C

    Workshop manual

    You'll need a paper manual to write explanatory notes on over your upcoming years of ownership . Makes subsequent work after many years much easier.
  24. Another reason to buy a tyre size with a high turnover.
  25. As long as your imports don't have to be certified as asbestos free before landing- as happens in Australia.
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