Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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I had all kinds of sooty plug problems due to an out of calibration PI . The car was horrible to start and drive. Anyway I had the PI system rebuilt and re-calibrated then switched to NGK BUR 6ET plugs 5 years ago- it totally transformed the car.
The car is now reliable, starts easily and has plenty of power.
And the NGK BUR series of three electrode plugs do not need the gap to be checked and reset
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Yep, PI= petrol injected . Your filter filter should be ok as your car will only have a low pressure lift pump. If you buy new hoses make sure they are suitable for modern fuel blends- this could be the root cause of your problem.
I use Gates Barricade .
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The silver canister is a fuel filter. Do you have a PI car? If so that filter is working at a very high pressure and I'd relocate it to the suction side of the fuel pump.
You can replace all the rubber hoses and filters, except for hoses immediately connected to the tank by clamping the hoses adjacent to the tank with pinch clamps.
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I have some in the garage I bought for another vehicle. What's wrong with HPR30, it meets the original Triumph viscosity requirements and has 1600ppm zinc, ie another 200ppm over HPR50.
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1 hour ago, Richiep said:
Hi All,
Just a quick follow up message to say thanks for your replies and recommendations! :-)
I’m now in the process of rechecking the electrics.. as the overdrive worked a couple of times last week.. I’m suspecting a poor ‘new’ column switch, even though it was replaced only a few years ago!!
Richard
Almost all TR O/D problems are electrical. That's why I fitted mine with a pilot light that confirms the electrical signal to the solenoid. That light's paid for itself over and over.
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I thought about using something similar on another vehicle but I lose my GPS signal in forests - does this speedo keep working under a heavy tree canopy?
My photos don't get inverted when I post them, are they correctly upright when you attach them?
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I installed an indicator light to confirm when my O/D solenoid is electrically energized. Virtually all of my O/D problems over the past 25odd years have been electrical.
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I've had a Pertronix fitted since October 2006, I've had no problems at all with it.
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4 hours ago, TRTOM2498PI said:
Hi Cal,
You will no doubt get various opinions here.
Based on a stock, 5.5j original pressed wheel (as above), I suggest: 195/65/15 sized tyre. Uniroyal Rainsports are a great brand of tyre (check tyre reviews for grip).
Circa £70 a tyre, fully inclusive (valve, balancing & VAT).
You can buy an original 165 sized tyre, for that period feel, but they are very expensive, and if you're not doing many miles a year, the tyre will go off, before it wears out.
Good luck.
I use 195/65R15 Pirelli Cinturato's. They're a common tyre in Australia and when you buy them they are fresh and cheap.
Very few TR6 owners drive their cars enough to wear out the tyres before their use by date,
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Is your PRV return close to the suction of the tank? If so there's a chance of the fuel short circuiting with a small component being continuously pumped, heated returned then repumped etc .
My PRV return is on the opposite side of the tank to the pump suction.
If you put the cooler in the pump suction , the lines between the tank and the cooler need to be generously sized.
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If the leak smells and looks like oil, as opposed to petrol, the O ring on the distributor pedestal is probably leaking.
I found that installing a 0.9mm thick steel firewall in front of the petrol tank bolted to the tub with 6mm rivnuts made a huge difference to tub rigidity and scuttle shake.
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I used a cover to store my car on an open driveway once- it wore the paint away on the corners even though the cover was one of those fur lined things.
There was no significant deterioration of the chassis or any other components, just wear of the paint in the corners back to the primer.
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Getting there. TR's suffer a lot from scuttle shake due to the separate chassis construction. Probably a lot more than you experienced in a MX5 with its monocoque construction.. The H frame helps a lot to keep it under control, make sure its top & bottom mounting bolts are tight.
I set my idle at 800-900 rpm to prevent pressure pulses oscillating components in the MU and throttle butterflies.
I'd clean and then try to identify the source of the leak by sprinkling talcum powder on suspected sources. That looks suspiciously like a leak I had from a defective MU fuelling diaphragm.
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The TR6 engine needs an oil with high zinc content to cope with sliding friction, especially in the valve gear. I use Penrite HPR30 because of its 1600 ppm zinc content.
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1 hour ago, David Peel said:
Hi Mike. Yeah that what’s interesting and as on a budget I’m somewhat limited. It looks to have had a lot of work done so interested to see the paperwork and pics and will take it from there. D
Good luck. Each TR owner has a different perception of what's important in a car. Speed and handling, originality, price, history- for each owner the mix is different,
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18 hours ago, David Peel said:
Hi All. I’m new to the register and have just become a member. I’m in the early days of looking for a car and I have seen one that looks very good in Kent nr Cranbrook and wanted to ask if any members know of the Car? It’s 1971 in Sapphire Blue with Wirewheels. Any comments or advice would be gratefully received. Kindest regards David
It's all there and cheap, but personally I'd look at a few before I made any decision.
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+1-" If your wings are off or off in the future people fit rubber hose to either exit through the front splash guards or pass through the sills and out through the rear of the sill."
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In my early endeavors to stop the bonnet springing up installed a repro catch and it made the problem worse so I went back to the original. The repro catch spring had a round section and was not as strong as the square section original.
The spring I trimmed was the one on the pin. My theory was that the body/ bonnet assemblies flex when the vehicle hits a bump and the pin spring then tries to open the bonnet . Reducing the force trying to open the bonnet when these flexures occur might help the catch to keep it closed. This seems to be whats happening now.
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The car looks great. You should be proud of the TR and glad to be on the road.
For years I had to stop and to reclose a popped bonnet after hitting a bump. I tried everything- catch adjustments , a new catch etc. The problem seemed to be caused by a repro bonnet fastener being fitted at some time in the past with a spring that was far too strong.
Two years ago I cut 3 coils out of the spring so that the bonnet opened when the catch was released but did not open not like a tripped rat trap.
This seems to have fixed the problem , even when I hit the known popping bumps at speed.
If your fuel cooler is in the PRV return the bulk of the fuel will be going through it under most operating conditions. Make sure your pump has generously has a generously sized suction line , is positioned as low as possible in the boot and I personally like to have 5-7 diameters of straight pipe into the pump suction ( a hangover from the days when I used to work for a living).
I avoid the vapourization problem by having a booster pump with good suction characteristics under the tank feeding the Bosch unit.
There seems to be a lot or fuel vapourization problems in the UK at the moment- maybe the petrol suppliers have changed to winter blend early?
Your brakes just seem to be just bedding in.
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"putting the coil to one side for now because when this happens the pump note changes to a screech "-do you have a coil on the suction side of the pump?
A PO solved the problem of pump suction line petrol vapourization with my fuel system by installing a Carter pump with high suction capability under the tank . The Carter pump then feeds the Bosch pump in series.
A 1970's modification that's still working.
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Tank vent clear?
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You plan to add your own set of numbers to the block with a set of number punches?
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The judder may be engine or gearbox mounts. I've had to replace both over the years.
Is the dripping oil engine or gearbox oil?
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You need assurance it's a Viton diaphragm before you start installing it.
Spark Plugs & Misfire : cleaning sooty BP6ES + is BP6ET worth a try?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Worth a try, just a bit dearer than normal plugs. I use resistor plugs to suppress radio interference