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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. Brian, I think you are talking about complete cable assemblies and Steve is talking about inner cables. Obviously , the inner cable assembly has to match the existing outer if the outer is retained. That said, if there's any uncertainty about the inner length, it's probably better to replace the complete assembly rather than risking a too long inner destroying the tacho internals .
  2. Never measured mine. It works, when I get cables replaced I just give a local instrument specialist the old one and he replicates it. There's been a lot of messing about with my tacho and speedo cables over the years, so I cant trust the books. Does your old cable work ?
  3. Pull a plug and check that you get a fat , blue spark with a hot engine. Might sort out if it's an ignition problem.
  4. HE identified the high compression PI engines .
  5. What do you look for? The lack of boundary friction additives?
  6. A repair shop filled my gearbox/OD with GL5 oil by mistake. The GL5 boundary layer additives caused it to jump out of gear on the overrun and the synchro's to grate. Flushed it out with 2 changes of GL4 and all is fine again.
  7. Mike C


    Somethings wrong with your cooling, 30 deg C is not a really hot ambient temperature. You've probably checked this, but are you sure your fan is turning the right way?
  8. Mike C


    I do a lot of radiator diagnostic work with a infra red thermometer, the absolute temperatures may not be correct, but there should be a temperature difference between the top and bottom radiator hoses when the engine is overheated and idling. If not there's a water circulation or radiator problem. If your coolant overflow bottle is filling itself you might have a blown head gasket.
  9. Mike C


    Was the fan running when the gauge moved up to 3/4 hot? If the coolant bottle was 1/2 full cold and full when the engine was hot , that's pretty normal coolant expansion.
  10. I've used a lot of Pall stuff in Australia and PNG over the years, it's good gear. It's amazing what you can do when you set your mind to it with scrap and a bit of thinking.Your dryer could have well outperformed a refrigerated dryer. From memory the dew point limit on a refrigerated dryer is set by water freezing in the compressed air line. I always used oil free compressors when I needed to use a drier- recips with carbon or later teflon rings or screw compressors. For most of us though, provided the compressor is fitted with a good aftercooler, trapping and draining the water condense
  11. But if the separator gets all the saturated water out and is properly drained , the dew point will drop when the air is subsequently expanded. In a previous life I used to install float traps under the receivers to do this. Of course if you're really worried about water there's always refrigerated or desiccant air driers.
  12. Might be right. Ignition timing is easy enough to check. There's always the possibility it's the valve timing or a burnt exhaust valve.
  13. Paint chaffing at the corners due to wind movement and paint microblisters were two problems I had when I stored my TR outdoors under an outdoor cover. The external surface on the one I had was similar to that in boxofbits first photo. Another problem, which might not occur in the UK, was the sun hardening the cover and it cracking after 2 years or so. In the end I resorted to covering the cover with a sun proof tarpaulin for long term storage.
  14. I never knew this-"The Welch plug was originally designed in the 1900s at the Welch Motor Car Company in the United States. Prior to the invention of the Welch plug, the core holes were sealed using pipe plugs. During the testing of a car, one of the pipe plugs backed out. In order to get back on the road, one of the Welch brothers installed a press-fit quarter or half dollar coin into the hole using a hammer. The design of the Welch plug was refined based on this principle of a press-fit metallic disc." I always thought the Welsh invented them, probably back in the days of Richard Trevit
  15. Welsh plugs normally go concave face in - so that when you punch them with a drift they expand outwards and seal.
  16. The inhibitor switches were bypassed in my car when I first bought it- unbeknown to me at the time. It sort of bucked a bit if you tried to reverse it with the OD on. You'd notice it-it's like a CV joint locking up.
  17. Mike C

    Kidney Panels

    I used marine 3 ply- I figure if they can build boats with it , it must be good.
  18. Look good. When you order them you'll have to make sure they match your hose OD- there's not much adjustment in them compared to jubilee clamps.
  19. Where is the leak from? I have no problems using PTFE tape on the threaded joints and 2 jubilee clips on each rubber/metal joint with the jubilee screw heads spaced 180 degrees apart.
  20. I buy Gates Barricade from Repco in Australia. They home deliver here, maybe they will also deliver to the UK: https://www.repco.com.au/en/parts-service/fuel-ignition-exhaust/other-fuel-parts/gates-fuel-hose-9-5mm-3-8in-27341/p/A9440859 Freight wasn't excessive years ago, when I used to get UK fuel hose delivered to Australia, so I suppose the reciprocal transport cost is still reasonable.
  21. This is the way my filter housing is mounted. It gives the engine access to clean, dense air in the front, RH corner of the engine bay. No changes to the fixing plate were required.
  22. From a control perspective, it's never a good idea to oversize pumps in any application. If I were starting from scratch I would select a pump with a flow of around 125% of the MU full load fuel consumption at 7 bar. But I'm happy with my present setup with a 957 pump - it works so I leave it alone.
  23. +1 . I can get the high pressure Gates Barricade in Australia. Before I could get the Barricade I would typically only get 2-3 years out of UK sourced R9 hose on Australian high octane unleaded.
  24. This might be of help ( I can't tell because it's in German): https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/157/Z7V74ZS65XWM.pdf
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