Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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Don't know if the pressure will drop much. As the engine uses fuel the PRV closes slightly to compensate. From memory the flow to the MU was minor compared to the flow through the PRV even at full load.
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My system is pretty much as you propose , the return from the PRV is located halfway down the tank on the opposite side from the pump suction to maximize fuel cooling before it's returned to the pump and minimize return fuel splashing .
I have a separate return from the MU but its small as I don't believe significant quantities of fuel are returned from the MU.
I've kept the filter to the original spec, as the PI system was designed by Lucas Aerospace and I've assumed they wanted a higher filtration efficiency than provided by the carburettor system filters available at the time.
Gates Barricade rubber hoses with an anti resonance loop solved a lot of the noise problems, but a TR6 PI will never be as quiet as a modern car-that's part of its charm.
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I have and A type overdrive and if I had this problem I'd be looking at the accumulator operating pressure and relief valve setting. Someone may have set yours up for hard fast changes as mentioned above.
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I have no problems with 30W although I've personally used SAE 80 GL4 in various guises over the years. But I would do a lot of checking before I used GL5 in any viscosity.
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Any oil drips visible on the garage floor under the back of the car? If so it's probably a diff seal.
Oil drips from under the engine / gearbox and petrol smells are pretty much a TR6 trademark.
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At the risk of reigniting the great TR6 gear oil debate, hypoid gear oil is generally GL5 with it's attendant material compatibility and synchromesh problems. I'd do a bit of a check around before I changed the oil specification and maybe damaged the gearbox &OD.
I have an A type overdrive and it will change harshly if I really flog it, do you drive the TR6 differently to the sedan?
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8 hours ago, Ernest said:
Hi All
Thanks very much for this range of advice - I guess I will just have to start saving for respray!
Best Wishes
Ernest
I wouldn't get a respray until I solved the storage problem unless there are paints available now that resist the water induced micro blistering.
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I had the moisture problem under a good quality car cover. Over a number of years I noticed microblisters forming and wear on edges exposed to wind induced cover movement. I tried an outer cover over a new inner cover but it didn't help.
Eventually I had to have the car repainted and find garage storage space.
Can't help with any further advice on storing a car long term over the winter, unfortunately.
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8 hours ago, ChrisR-4A said:
Hi Mike, I see your in Melbourne where summer temps are similar to a good U.K summer. I’m not expecting to notice too much difference in U.K. except on warmest days but each year when we go to France in July temps are often 29-35 deg and colder under bonnet air should be welcome .
I assume both you guys have the standard TR6 injection, the benefits of colder air would be more noticeable on a 6 with carbs and K&N filters more so with triple Webber’s.
Chris
I have a standard PI with a few mods for hill climbing. It does have more power on a cold, crisp morning. When the temperature's above 35 deg. C I'm usually heading home at a sedate pace.
If I was trying to get the temperature of the inlet plenum down I'd look at an aluminum heat shield between the exhaust and inlet manifolds or maybe ceramic coating the exhaust manifold to reduce the radiation emissivity.
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I'm happy with the standard PI intake in the front RH corner just behind the grille.
Some of the blokes in the SLK forum I'm in use water/methanol injection to cool the charge - but they also have changed the supercharger pulleys to get more boost resulting in higher manifold temperatures. Don't know if it would be worth the trouble in a NA TR6.
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In Australia I'd try British car wreckers and vintage car swap meets if I had no success here. But good luck, someone here might find something in their garage over the weekend.
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Sure your last fill up wasn't from a diesel pump?
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I'd do 2 before I cranked the engine over after stopping , then 1 then 3. For 3 you could set up a voltmeter to watch the coil input while you are driving, like you have with the timing pistol.
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Have you tried connecting the 2 wires from the inertia switch, bypassing it totally? Sure sounds like a wiring or electrical component intermittent connection somewhere.
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22 minutes ago, Graham said:
I was told that if you put the stat in the bottom hose the fan only cuts in if the radiator has been unable to cool the water sufficiently before it goes back to the engine, in the top hose it runs immediately hot water from the engine hits it. Having said that I ran a very early Kenlow with the sensor in the top hose for 20+ years with no drama BEFORE I was told the stat might be in the wrong place.
I did the same with a Datsun 260Z in the late 1970's -sensor in the top hose and it ran fine. My idea back in those days was this was where engine temperature was sensed by the thermostat and temperature gauge therefore it was the correct place to sense the fan control temperature.
Looking back now I agree with the idea that the fan should only come on if the radiator by itself can't handle the cooling load- hence a sensor in the bottom return pipe is the way to go.
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Wouldn't the top hose be a better position to sense engine & cooling load ?
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I'm with Tim, I had exactly the same problem 3 years ago with an old Holden V8. Stopped dead on freeways after running for an hour or so at over 100kmh. Leave it for 10 minutes or so and everything was perfect again. Tried everything , as you do with these intermittent faults, eventually I mounted a new coil in a cooler position and the problem went away.
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7 hours ago, chrismitchell said:
Variation on this theme:
Top gear, jack one rear wheel off the ground, then turn that wheel by hand.
Make sure the O/D is off.
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I don't know if early cars had two. Passenger side door mirrors were unusual 50 years ago.
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My 1969 CP's ballast resistor is a white ceramic thing on the rear passenger side of the engine bay if this helps.
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I'd look at the ballast resistor and it's wiring. I made a gadget out of stuff in the shed incorporating a PVC tube with a wire from the distributor lead to earth and an adjustable spark gap at the bottom. The tube keeps light out and lets me see the spark. The adjustable gap let's me measure it's strength.
But you might have to check for a spark at night if you suspect the ballast resistor.
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45 years of capillary action? People might criticise Triumph's QA but there's no way the float left the factory full of petrol.
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2 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said:
Mike C could you not take the cowl apart that the switch fits into and the turn the switch over?
Michael
No, had a look and the bend in the arm would point towards the dashboard. Besides I'm used to "flick down=higher gear".
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And I'd solder every connection I can, if voltage drop looks like being a problem I'd even solder wire tails to be fitted to screwed sockets.
J Type overdrive harsh shifting
in TR6 Forum
Posted
For an A type, I'd be looking at the operating valve ball and spring if I was concerned about those fluctuations. Might try a snubber in the pressure gauge line to get a better idea of the average pressures during operation.
Maybe wait until some J type experts come on line overnight to see if the fluctuations are a concern.