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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. Thanks.I did a bit of research over the weekend and Daikin(Exedy) make a heavy duty clutch kit for a Triumph 2500.Part No. is TRK-6116HD. I'll look at those for the next clutch.Also I believe Isuzu make a 9.0 inch clutch that's interchangeable and more robust. I don't know if a 2500 clutch is weaker than a TR6 clutch ,mine last (2500-MK gearbox) one had only done a few,maybe two, thousand miles and it just started slipping on a freeway in overdrive top.And that was the end of it. Regards,
  2. Thanks Rod, I would welcome any recommendations anyone has on the best clutch plate for a 2500 gearbox in a TR6. With regard to the O/D switch I use a TR6 switch mounted on the left of the steering wheel,it's very easy to operate although I use the overdrive mainly for cruising ,not split shifting through the gears. Regards,
  3. Hi Rod, Do you know if the Moss uprated GT6 clutch plate discussed in the thread is a significant improvement over a NOS 2500 unit. Regards
  4. Tony, The final test after diff assembly is to check the backlash on the crown wheel, it should be 4 to 6 thou.I'd ask whoever overhauled the unit to confirm that this was done.If it wasn't done I'd get it checked before putting the unit in the car. Regards,
  5. Clive, For what it's worth I have a Triumph 2500 (MK series) gearbox with a type A overdrive fitted.It take the power of a fast road engine with no problems other than a fairly short clutch life ,which may not be due the 2500 clutch assemblies fitted. In addition to Rod's list you might also want to look at changing your O/D accumulator springs to a TR set. Regards,
  6. Mike C

    Front Hubs

    For the last 30 years I've used Castrol HTB.Its not soap based (it's bentone clay base -whatever that is) and rated to 200 degrees C.Temperature resistance has always been important to me with disc brakes. As you chaps probably aware-you cannot mix greases with different bases.I normally thoroughly clean the hubs and bearings,visually check the bearings and race surfaces for the minutest sign of cracking or scoring,then reassemble with working the grease through the bearings and adding enough extra grease to make sure the bearings run in grease but there is enough volume left to let the greas
  7. Hi, I did a ring gear replacement to a Morris Minor about 30 years ago.I heated the ring gear with an oxy and kept checking the inside diameter of the ring gear against the OD of the flywheel with calipers to make absolutely sure the ring gear would fit before I started the process. I was obsessed with the ring gear shrinking on to the flywheel before it was properly fitted.As I saw it if it shrank on too early there was no way to get them apart as they could not be independently heated again. Anyway I kept checking and wnen I was sure they would fit I quickly did the assembly with some l
  8. If you want to check the fuel supply curve of the control/metering unit Egil Kvaleberg has a simple (relatively speaking) method in the Triumph section of his home page.But I believe that in doing this you are going were bold men fear to tread. Regards
  9. Hi, My cylinder is old Girling 3/4 inch.As part of a campaign to get the clutch system up to scratch I removed mine,stripped it and checked that the bores weren't pitted then put in a reconditioning kit.There were no dramas other than getting the valve bits on the stem on the end of the piston in the right order.I believe these master cylinders were made with two bore sizes so you should check this before purchasing parts. Regards,
  10. Hi The conditions under which you are misfiring are those of the lowest manifold vacuum and greatest shuttle stroke.I'd be looking at the control unit if the problem was bad enough to justify it.Check and make sure all the components that move the shuttle are in good condition and free.I've read the shuttle stroke under lowest vacuum depression is 60 thou.Note if the problem was ignition I suspect you would go rich not lean during the misfire. I hope someone thinks of something easier to check and hopefully fix the problem. Regards,
  11. Red, Sorry if I' short but I have to leave for work.The Brown Book is vague, for example I admire the simple innocence of the hand deftly inserting the pin into the windscreen winder handle. Reading the paras you quoted I'd agree the butterflies and air valve have to be to be tight enough to stall the engine. I still believe that the procedure would be very hard to get right and keep right with worn linkages. Regards
  12. Alan, Those oil pressures are pretty close to mine.I'm happy with mine. Regards
  13. Robin, I don't know what else you have done but it'd be worth having a look at the inlet manifold for leaks. Regards,
  14. Red,I think the reason the butterflies should not shut completely is simply to maintain a nominal clearance and stop them jamming into the inlet manifold bodies.The Brown Book says the clearance should be less than 2 thou (.05mm).I would not try to do any of these adjustments with worn linkages.
  15. Thanks Stan.I'll look for an alternative, thinner belt.Your right, if you have a spare belt it makes it much easier to get something done on the day. At the very worst it means removing and replacing the six bolts on the cross brace. Regards, Mike
  16. I would not fit anything to the manifold that takes hot air from alongside the engine.That will lead to a loss of power.Triumph and a lot of other sporting car manufacturer's go to great lengths to get cold, dense air to the intake.Hence the elaborate ducting assembly from the inlet manifold to the front of the car. Are you sure the cold start linkage is fully going to "off" -with clearance at the metering unit. Regards,
  17. Hi Willem. I have an early CP engine which has only two of those tubes.They are not fitted with any clamps at all.I have no starting problems or lean spark plug readings that would indicate manifold leakage. In the Triumph and Haymes manuals there are no clamps shown. However if you want to fit clamps I cannot see reason why not.
  18. Mark, Thanks for bringing this up. I believe in carrying a spare fan belt on long runs -but I have always assumed that it would be an easy matter to fit it- as per the simple instructions in the Brown Book and common automotive practice.My last belt was fitted as part of the extra jobs I had done while the engine/gearbox was out for a clutch replacement.. Tonight I tried levering my engine back as recommended.The engine mounts are pretty inflexible and while I could probably fit a belt in the garage with a metre long jemmy bar I wouldn't like to do it at the side of the road with say a
  19. Good move Stallie.With regard to your gearbox,make sure you are not using a hypoid gear oil in it.Hypoid gears slide along the teeth in operation and require a lot of friction modifiers.These modifiers also stop the synchro rings from working properly.I had a clutch replaced years ago while I was away and when I picked the car up the gearbox operation was terrible-which I put down to the new clutch and my failing memory of how bad the gearbox must have been.I suspect that during the replacement the gearbox oil was drained and replaced with modern GL5 oil.I replaced the gearbox/OD oil with Pe
  20. Stallie, trfella's experience with the polybush's on a recent thread is typical of mine with my TR6.With these older cars you really don't know for certain what part you need until you physically inspect the old part.People like us have been messing about with these cars for 40 years.I am very reluctant to buy parts "on spec". Regards,
  21. Stallie ,I travel a bit but I've never been tempted to buy parts while I'm in the US or UK just because I'm there.For me buying parts is a fairly considered decision.I often buy Moss and Rimmer's parts off the Healy Factory and Pickard's in Melbourne because I can discuss the the range of parts available with them before purchase.As you point out the mark ups are outrageous - but it's better than ending up with a shed full of parts that don't fit.If you want to buy cheaply ,sight unseen why not buy direct from Moss,Rimmer Bros.etc.There is only 10% GST on parts imported direct over the suppli
  22. It depends on what you consider to be important.I installed a Pertronix because I got tired of cleaning and gapping the points each 1000 miles or so (generally putting it off until poor starting performance forced me to do it).Looking at the engine most people would not notice they are installed.Each to his own. Regards
  23. Mike C

    running rich

    First and easiest thing to check is that the fuel enrichment control is free when the knob is pushed in and that there is clearance at the metering unit.
  24. Mike C

    what did it do

    Note in Roger William's book"How to improve the TR6" ,fig 13-5-3, shows the cabling to this block doubled -which is amongst his recommendations for upgrading the alternator and associated electrics( there is also an earth shown to the block- which could start a whole new discussion). I don't think the cable size differences mean much. These cars are 40 years old and there are a lot of parts that that have been changed and may not be original. Regards,
  25. Mike C

    what did it do

    I agree with David. I have the block shown in wiring diagrams up to 70/71, after that its a straight brown wire.It supplies a direct feed from the battery to the alternator and fuse block- a feed that doesn't go through the ignition switch.My guess is that someone drew in into the circuits for the original design and during a later design/cost cutting review it was found the block could be replaced by a simple connection to an existing wire. The block has been removed from my '69 PI model.
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