Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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I'm interested in Andy's ideas- get rid of the troublesome bullet connectors and bring all the dashboard wiring to one central plug to allow easy removal- and avoid having to connect wires directly to the back of the instrumentation gauges.
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Once it's run in , drive it like a normal car, take it to the red line if the occasion demands. The original owners handbook said avoid full throttle on a cold engine or at low engine speeds for the first 1000 miles. Don't rev the engine during this period unless it is thoroughly warmed up and not pulling hard.
The main thing is to use the car- I've had a lot of problems after leaving it in the garage for months, whereas driving it every week it's as reliable as a modern car.
When I used to keep the car in Melbourne I had problems with plug fouling due to the stop/start traffic. I replaced the plugs with NGK BUR 6ET plug's and the car's never fouled a plug since. I believe the triple electrode design was developed in the 1990's to combat a fouling problem that a new generation of engines had at that time- but they work well in TR6's.
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8K RPM into the overdrive will be interesting.
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That's a big step , you could go backwards in performance unless you go to an expensive Weber set up.
What fuel do you use? Do you use the car often? I add Stabil for winter storage.
Maybe EFI is worth a look if you want to change from the original Lucas PI.
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First was CP 25001, you're the 1,133rd made as I see it. For info mine , is stamped CP26124 and it looks like it's been in Australia all its life.
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I paid $AUD 10K in 2008, including some minor repairs. Rechroming parts cost another $AUD 1300.
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Obviously, if you use a level for any drive angle measurements make sure the whole car is level to start with.
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I suspect the nozzle may of been cast in - it took a lot of heat and brute force to get it out.
We're down to around 30 degrees each day at the moment. I was very impressed at how the TR handled recent days in the 40's - driving around town and racing up to the close by Strathbogie tablelands the temperature gauge never rose above the half way mark.
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Sounds a feasible explanation , maybe when you reinstalled the OD you tightened up everything and distorted the existing fracture enough for it to finally break. Circlip grooves are well known shaft stress raisers.
Hope your OD man has enough good parts to repair the whole assembly so that everything turns freely.
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3 hours ago, KiwiTR6 said:
+1
I was able to remove the threaded portion using a threaded filter connection cut from the filter base and welded to a piece of flat steel to make a spanner with something else (can't remember what) to lock the thread. I then cleaned everything and reinstalled it using heavy duty thread locker with an extra 10 mm of thread protruding. It was quite long so plenty of thread to work with.
I had to use a large LPG turbo torch and bolt remover to get my nozzle out. It was damaged so a new one had to be machined up out of pipe.
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Does the filter have adequate thread engagement? I had to extend the centre nozzle on my Mocal adapter because it only engaged the cartridge by a thread or so. On a cold start one morning the cartridge blew off.
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I like to use 50% antifreeze to enhance the coolant mixture's anti corrosion properties- as I see it anti freeze is cheap compared to the consequences of corrosion.
Gasket coatings are a personal preference- I personally coat both sides of most gaskets with non setting sealant- I use Permatex No 3.
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I just flush the radiator in both directions until the flushing water comes out clean. I do everything cold, I wouldn't be too keen on putting cold water into a hot block.
I refill the radiator to overflowing with 50% quality coolant and the expansion tank about 2/3 full. Then run the engine until it reaches operating temperature with the heater full on. The radiator will expel any air to the expansion tank.
I then let the engine cool down and top up the expansion tank to the full level.
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57 minutes ago, JochemsTR said:
I really want to use the Rimmer offered plugs....I just need to understand the circulation from engine to head and its return
If it helps I'd expect competition TR6 engines would have their heaters removed and the ports plugged. Maybe a forum member that races TR6's can confirm.
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26 minutes ago, KiwiTR6 said:
Mike, I must say a 5-speed conversion is looking pretty attractive right now....
The thought's occurred to me too. I'd keep the the old Triumph gearbox with OD to sell with the car - in a decade or two.
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4 hours ago, KiwiTR6 said:
Hi Roger.
I had been running through the gears on the hoist to see if there was any indication that the OD was now working, which it was, and I'm sure it disengaged (with a thud) prior to shutting the motor down and lowering the car to the floor.
It certainly does sound like its the one way bearing that has gone so will do as you suggest when dismantling. This may be a while off yet as I'd hoped to have the OD sorted so that I could use the car over the remainder of the summer. Unfortunately that's not going to happen now as I have some construction work to finish on my house prior to the winter and I can't put it off any longer.
The best plans eh?
Sorry to hear this with summer coming to an end. I often wonder why Triumph used overdrives rather than a 5 or 6 speed gearbox. Surely 2 extra gears would have been cheaper to add than the complex electrical/hydraulic/mechanical overdrives.
Anyway the use of overdrives on vehicles has now been decided by history- not that that's of any use to TR6 owners.
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I recently joined the heater valve to the pipe at the side of the block with some 1/2 copper tube and the existing hoses.- bypassing the heater matrix entirely. My matrix started leaking about 2 weeks ago when I opened the heater valve to flush out air after a coolant change. Pulling the dash apart to get at the heater matrix, as you know, is not a job to start in mid summer's driving season.
To be honest, in Australia I've used the heater in anger maybe 5 times in 22 years- so repairing the heater matrix is not a high priority.
I leave the heater valve open in case circulation and avoiding cooling "dead legs" is important .
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4 hours ago, KiwiTR6 said:
I didn't meet him face to face, just spoke over the phone. When I asked him about using Hylomar on the gaskets to ensure it would be oil-tight and test running the unit up on the bench he replied that he'd been rebuilding them for 40 years so he new what he was doing. I took him at his word. In hindsight I should have insisted he use the new non-return kit. I was possibly rushing things a bit I guess.
As long as he didn't say there was a problem he knew about with your new NRV.
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1 hour ago, KiwiTR6 said:
Thanks Mike, I have run a wire from the solenoid supply wire back to behind the dash for this purpose, but the light will have to wait until I pull the dash out to tidy up the wiring and more some stage in the future. I have an idiot light on my dash just above the steering column which no one else seems to have - this will become my OD indicator.
I mounted the light in the H frame just alongside the radio, makes for a simpler wiring run and I like it out of the direct line of sight while driving- I find the light switching on and off distracting.
Good luck with the NRV- did your repairer give any reason for not using it?
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On my A type I wired an indicator light direct to the solenoid connection to tell me when I have power to the solenoid. If I engage the OD switch and the revs don't drop then I just look at the indicator to see if the problem is in the wiring upstream of the solenoid -where it is most of the time.
Neat indicator lights marked "Overdrive" are available from Landrover suppliers.
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Do you have to set a clearance on the solenoid like with the A type.
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If it's the Brown Book, it used to be free on line from sites like Vitessesteve.
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14 minutes ago, DRD said:
I thought the anti-drain valve was fairly standard on modern spin-on oil filters. I tend to use the Mann ones (W712) which have this.
It wasn't 10 years or so ago, I used a widely available filter for Nissan commercial vehicles that lacked the drain back valve -it fitted the Mocal adapter with no obvious problems.
The easiest way to make sure is see what filters work for other TR enthusiasts- you can't take the filter internal valving for granted.
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You need to check the manufacturer's data sheets or check with other user's. When I first fitted a spin adapter I only considered the attachment thread and filter sealing ring diameter- big mistake. There's more to it than that:
https://ryco.blob.core.windows.net/ryco/Files/library/news/oil_filter_valves_technical_tips.pdf
In the end I settled on a Ryco Z37 which is commonly used by Australian Triumph enthusiasts - it has an anti syphon valve and internal pressure relief.
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TR6 won 't start
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I assume this means its kicking over from a spark "It just doesn’t quite start ". Make sure the fuel enrichment lever on the MU is adjusted &working .
Stale fuel will really affect these engines- I have to add Stabil when I leave the car for more than a month or so.